OK, I am an idiot!

[pgerhardt]

It is important to share the stupid mistakes we make. If nothing else it will give some a laugh, but then it may also keep others from making the same mistake.

I was tired of the rat's nest of wires the previous own had left under the tank of my 29 tudor to support the turn signals he had installed (picture 1).

So I rewired and install a new turn signal switch. Now there is just a single black woven loom going from the switch over to the kick panel. MUCH BETTER! (picture 2)

The new switch came with a wiring diagram showing where all the different colored wires went. Thinking it would not matter, I just made sure any color labeled right went to signals on the right, and any labeled left went to signals on the left.

I was correct FOR THE SIGNALS! they all worked perfectly. UNTIL I STEPPED ON THE BRAKE! My right rear brake light did not come on, but my right front signal light DID! It turns out the turn signal switch also powers the brake lights. Who knew!

So I had to remove the kick panel and rewire the switch making sure the wire labeled right rear went to the right rear. Now all is well. So don't be like me read those directions AND FOLLOW THEM.

I do have one question about the turn signal switch. the lights on the switch itself don't light up as the signal flashes. This is not a problem since I have a beeper on my flasher. It is not a ground problem since I connected a separate ground wire to the switch and it made no difference. I am thinking that this switch (bought on E-Bay) is designed for negative ground systems and the internal lights are getting no power on my positive ground system. Any thoughts? Will the switches sold by the venders for the model A light up properly on positive ground systems?

[Bill G]

No, the switch isn't damaged, but it needs to be grounded for the light inside to work. The paint on the steering column is preventing it from operating. Run a ground wire to the clamp and you should be fine.

Also, for mine, which looks identical to yours, the light was a 12-volt light and I needed to get a 6-volt light for inside the switch because it was dim. I have the light number for ordering one, but I would need to look it up.

<edit> oops I responded and then went back and re-read your entire post where you said specifically you had checked the ground. Maybe the little bulb inside the switch burned out. You could remove it and check it. There is only one bulb that is connected to the handle shaft and serves the purpose for indicating left, right, and flashers. <end of edit>

[pooch]

Originally Posted by pgerhardt

It is important to share the stupid mistakes we make. If nothing else it will give some a laugh, but then it may also keep others from making the same mistake.

I was tired of the rat's nest of wires the previous own had left under the tank of my 29 tudor to support the turn signals he had installed (picture 1).

So I rewired and install a new turn signal switch. Now there is just a single black woven loom going from the switch over to the kick panel. MUCH BETTER! (picture 2)

The new switch came with a wiring diagram showing where all the different colored wires went. Thinking it would not matter, I just made sure any color labeled right went to signals on the right, and any labeled left went to signals on the left.

I was correct FOR THE SIGNALS! they all worked perfectly. UNTIL I STEPPED ON THE BRAKE! My right rear brake light did not come on, but my right front signal light DID! It turns out the turn signal switch also powers the brake lights. Who knew!

So I had to remove the kick panel and rewire the switch making sure the wire labeled right rear went to the right rear. Now all is well. So don't be like me read those directions AND FOLLOW THEM.

I do have one question about the turn signal switch. the lights on the switch itself don't light up as the signal flashes. This is not a problem since I have a beeper on my flasher. It is not a ground problem since I connected a separate ground wire to the switch and it made no difference. I am thinking that this switch (bought on E-Bay) is designed for negative ground systems and the internal lights are getting no power on my positive ground system. Any thoughts? Will the switches sold by the venders for the model A light up properly on positive ground systems?

Almost the same thing happened to me when I was 17.

Wired up my first towbar and trailer at the same time.

5 different coloured wires and a diagram showing which colour did what.

I figiured who cares as long as the wire goes from same to same .

My trailer worked fine.

It was only when I plugged another trailer into it , all was wrong . doh.

[RUNNERBUN]

That's just what men do is'nt it, read the instructions when all else fails. And no, you're not an IDIOT, an idiot is one who fails to learn from his mistakes and makes the same mistake twice.

[Mike V. Florida]

Unless they are leds, which ground you have will make no difference.

What type switch do you have? can you post the drawing?

[CarlG]

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The Signal Stat switch and associated wiring I got from Sacramento Vintage worked perfectly when wired according to the enclosed instructions.

[pgerhardt]

OK here is some more info on my setup:

FLASHER: Most thermal flashers are not polarity sensitive, but mine is special in that it has a built in beeper, so maybe yes. It has three leads "P" "X" and "T". "P" is usually connected to the fused power lead while "X" (ground) and "T" go to the switch. In my positive ground case the flasher doesn't work unless "X" and "P" are reversed.

THE SWITCH:
In my setup "P" and "T" go to the switch. It works perfectly, but it doesn't light up. If I reverse the "P" and "T" wires going to the switch, the switch does light up, but stays lit and the signaling function of the switch doesn't work.

So now I have a non-lit switch that works perfectly and beeps while signaling. Maybe I should just get 6 volt positive ground switch, but I think my backwards wired flasher might defeat it as well. (And I need that beeper, or I will be that guy who drives 20 miles with his signal light flashing!!)

Or maybe I should go back to a normal non beeping flasher wired correctly and find another solution to my need for beeping. Any ideas?

A third option would be the electronic switch I once saw that is self cancelling. I can't remember where I saw it. Can someone point me in the right direction?