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06-09-2020, 10:30 AM | #21 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
If the generator only puts out 10 to 15 amps then the wire will be sized appropriately. If a person is running an alternator the it can put out 35 or more amps but the wire would still remain the same size unless someone rewires it. Most of the safety fuse kits come with a 20-amp fuse.
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06-10-2020, 09:35 AM | #22 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
Once you find the problem, don't correct it using crimp connectors...solder anything.
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
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06-10-2020, 09:52 AM | #23 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
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06-10-2020, 03:22 PM | #24 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
In aviation, soldering is secondary to crimp type connections. This is based on what happens to copper wire when heated during the soldering process. If the wire moves at all, it will fatigue quickly and break at the soldered connection. Crimp type terminals and connectors are much better than any used in the automotive world and they last as long as the wire does.
On older antique cars, they were soldered more often than not so to be original, solder them but don't expect them to last forever. |
06-10-2020, 08:33 PM | #25 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
You need to use the correct crimp tool for the terminal used to provide a quality crimp. A lot of the generic hobbyist crimp tools do a poor job of crimping.
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06-10-2020, 08:44 PM | #26 | |
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Re: blown fuse problem
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Quote:
True that; channel locks or vise gripes will cause the wires to break at the crimp as they will not stop "crimping" until you stop pressing the jaws together which is usually too hard. A crimping tool is set for the correct size wire and terminal and will only crimp to a specific depth the maintain wire integrity. Solder always seems to work for me and "Bell and Howell" or "Western Union" splice joints are my go to but that is only because that's the the way I was taught... |
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06-10-2020, 09:00 PM | #27 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
Many times I crimp and solder.
Marc |
06-10-2020, 09:05 PM | #28 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
"Crimp and solder" by the Belltones, 1963 I believe.
But I could be mistaken.
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Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B |
06-11-2020, 08:47 AM | #29 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
You must be thinking of this -
Crimp and solder You old rodder The old crate Keeps getting odder ~Burma Shave~ |
06-11-2020, 03:19 PM | #30 |
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Location: Largo Florida
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Re: blown fuse problem
Yep.
I like to crimp, solder and shrink tube a connector/terminal. Western union, solder and shrink tube a splice. I kinda like shrink tube and have not any issues with anything breaking. |
06-11-2020, 07:01 PM | #31 | |
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Re: blown fuse problem
Quote:
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Ruth "Sometimes you really DO need to read the whole thread" |
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06-13-2020, 11:40 PM | #32 |
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Re: blown fuse problem
I run a 30 Amp circuit breaker on both my cars. Roadster is 6V + grd, the coupe is 12 V - grd. Both have alternators and for the last several months no problems with either. On the 6V, I do pull the circuit breaker at the end of the day every time I drive it. The 12 Volt I pull if it will be over a month before I fire it up again. So far so good. Last year both did odd things, that I never did really understand. Now neither car is a problem so I'll leave the tinkering until something quits.
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06-14-2020, 09:06 AM | #33 |
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Location: San Diego, CA
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Re: blown fuse problem
Berts sells a 30 amp circuit breaker that mounts on top of the starter.. I had a similar issue as you are experiencing and used the breaker while I was chasing the short.. lot easier than continuing to fry fuses. once you have solved the issue you can go back to the stock fuse setup..
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06-14-2020, 09:38 AM | #34 | |
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Re: blown fuse problem
Quote:
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Ruth "Sometimes you really DO need to read the whole thread" |
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