Fuel shut off valve

[Lenny Bruce]

Good morning all! So I noticed that even with my fuel valve turned in the off position gas still slowly fills my fuel sediment bowl. It will take days to actually fill it to the top but my concern is come winter storage I’d prefer this not to happen. It’s a ‘30 Tudor with the shut off valve under the dash. Do I need to drain the tank before replacing the valve or is their a easier route to take?

[Ray64]

no easy way . to be safe drain it

[nkaminar]

A grease is available for gasoline valves or any other moving part immersed in gasoline. It is called EZ Turn Lubricant, see link below. This will help seal the valve and prevent the slow leakage you describe. If the valve is severely worn it is best to replace it as it is difficult to lap the parts together to get a good seal. You do need to drain the tank.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ezturnlube.php

[bearbait]

if you can't get your original one to seal, be aware the reproduction fuel shut off are not very good. I picked a new reproduction one up at a swap meet and it leaked worse than the original one! I ended up polishing the seat of the stock one in a lathe. works great now.

[chap52]

Suppliers have rebuild kits for these. While your at it order a new pencil filter. It goes onto the valve inside the tank to keep junk from getting into the fuel system.
I was fortunate and bought a replacement that didn't leak. Think I got it from Mike's. Chap https://www.mikes-afordable.com/

[sethkestenbaum]

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Yes, you will unfortunately have to drain the tank and hope you can get out the old shut off valve. Alternatively, you can install a secondary shut off (modern) before the carb. While not original to the car, it adds some great safety. If you need, I can take and post some photos.

[TomInCologne]

or you could install a little 6V fuel solenoid valve which opens when the you close the battery disconnect

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

A grease is available for gasoline valves or any other moving part immersed in gasoline. It is called EZ Turn Lubricant, see link below. This will help seal the valve and prevent the slow leakage you describe. If the valve is severely worn it is best to replace it as it is difficult to lap the parts together to get a good seal. You do need to drain the tank.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...ezturnlube.php

Thanks nkaminar. This grease works great.

I also put a little on my carburetor throttle shafts to lubricate and prevent vacuum leaks. Especially helpful on Marvel Schebler carbs where replacement shafts are N/A.

It is a little on the expensive side but with the amount you use and the size of the tube, it should last you the rest on your life.

[old ugly]

yes you need to drain the tank

[katy]

After you drain the tank jack up and block the RH side of the car about 6" so that the tiny bit of gas left in the tank will migrate to the other side. It wouldn't hurt to put a catch pan underneath the valve "just in case".

[katy]

Anyone ever use "red rubber grease" instead of EZ turn?
I have a big tin of it and it's listed as "Resistant to Hydro-Carbon Solvents (eg: petrol and diesel)", among other things.
Methinks I'll have to give it triers.

https://www.greasemonkeydirect.com/b...rease-used-for

[Lenny Bruce]

Yes some photos of your set up would be greatly appreciated!

[Lenny Bruce]

Thanks everyone I will get at it ASAP

[sethkestenbaum]

Here you go Lenny..... I decided to make a quick post on my car's blog which I haven't updated in ages. The link has a video of my secondary shut off set up and a photo.

https://oldcarroadtrip.wordpress.com...-garage-floor/

[Y-Blockhead]

I must be losing it. I thought I posted a picture of my secondary shut off valve earlier. I used a valve from the hardware store.



Bratton's sells a similar set up.

[Ivan in southeast va.]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I must be losing it. I thought I posted a picture of my secondary shut off valve earlier. I used a valve from the hardware store.



Bratton's sells a similar set up.

Best way to go!

[ETAModel]

Originally Posted by Lenny Bruce

Good morning all! So I noticed that even with my fuel valve turned in the off position gas still slowly fills my fuel sediment bowl. It will take days to actually fill it to the top but my concern is come winter storage I’d prefer this not to happen. It’s a ‘30 Tudor with the shut off valve under the dash. Do I need to drain the tank before replacing the valve or is their a easier route to take?

The 30 Fordor I recently bought must have the same problem. There's a secondary shut off valve between the firewall and carb. Honestly I usually leave it open unless I'm not gonna drive her for a few days. I love running errands in her.

[Lenny Bruce]

Hey that’s slick! Thank you I’m going to do just the same. I’d buy a replacement if it were leaking in the car and not just slowly letting gas through. Also if their were a “good “ reproduction. Unfortunately I don’t have to luck of buying a one in a 100 good repro so I’ll add the second shut off as you did. Thank you! You all are making my Model A experience 10 times more enjoyable.

[skeazle]

I'm on my 3rd shut off valve under the dash in less than 2 years. I've had it with it. Everyone so far has not leaked on the floor but they don't fully close and gas gets through to the carb and leaks all over the garage floor and the fumes are unbearable. It doesn't matter what vendor I get them from either. The one that is on now I just put on back in the fall and the car sits for 6 or 7 months over the winter typical Pa. weather. The stupid gas valves are $25.00 a piece. It's not a hard job replacing the valve but it's the draining the tank that is a pain in the neck. Were these lousy valves this bad back in Henry's days?

[dcas8]

I have a similar setup. It’s been six months and no more fuel in the carb. However it is getting a little gritty and harder to turn. Suspecting sediment is still getting into the valve.

[Anteek29]

Wondering if the valve can be taken apart and valve lapping compound used to burnish and seat the mating surfaces?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Anteek29

Wondering if the valve can be taken apart and valve lapping compound used to burnish and seat the mating surfaces?

Numerous members have suggested in the past to lap in the valves, using everything from fine valve lapping compound to toothpaste.

I have never has much luck with this.

[Robert/Texas]

I installed one of the USA made shutoff valves from Snyder's in my '28 roadster about two months ago and it hasn't leaked yet. I have owned this car since 1989 and have replaced four other valves in it. I still have these old junk valves but this new valve looks to be of better quality than any of them (all brass).

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9339&cat=41707

I should add that I also have an early '28 open cab pickup which I bought some months before bought the roadster. I still have this one too. It came with an original style valve, possibly the one that was on the car when it was new. This valve leaked and was hard to turn. I repaired it with one of the then available kits and lapped the valve per the instructions. It still does not leak and is easy to turn.