? replace horn wire witrhout removing rod?

[fordmerc7]

My horn wire literally fell put after removing light switch. Rod won't come out without moving the steering column. Why can't I replace the wire without moving the steering column? (It looks as if I should be able to do this.)

[rotorwrench]

You will have to pull the actuator tube out far enough to remove the button from the switch actuator lever assembly. Here is a link.
https://www.mikes-afordable.com/docu...%20A3616RK.pdf

[burner31]

Having a convertible make this job easy...barring that...you don't have to remove the steering box or column, disconnect the pitman arm, remove two of the three bolts holding the steering box and loosen the third remaining bolt, remove the column support clamp and rotate the column downward, now you can pull your rod.
Replacing the horn wire is fairly simple...do you have a soldering gun?

[Cape Codder]

burner31 I always thought that if you have a convertible all that needs to be done is disconnect the light switch at the bottom of column, remove the "C" clip at bottom of rod and pull out the rod. Is there something I'm missing?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by burner31

Having a convertible make this job easy...barring that...you don't have to remove the steering box or column, disconnect the pitman arm, remove two of the three bolts holding the steering box and loosen the third remaining bolt, remove the column support clamp and rotate the column downward, now you can pull your rod.
Replacing the horn wire is fairly simple...do you have a soldering gun?

You have three bolts holding your steering box?

[burner31]

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Originally Posted by Cape Codder

burner31 I always thought that if you have a convertible all that needs to be done is disconnect the light switch at the bottom of column, remove the "C" clip at bottom of rod and pull out the rod. Is there something I'm missing?

Nope, you are right on that, I'm just advising if you have a hard top.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

You have three bolts holding your steering box?

I thought it was three, it's been awhile since I pulled my steering box out, I'm an old man, I lose count after two or nine beers.

[Cape Codder]

burner31 Your are absolutely right when working on the Closed Cars! I just recently had mine out for a complete rebuild on the whole steering column in my Fordor including a New Steering wheel!

[Bruce of MN]

For my Coupe, I had to remove the starter and lower water pipe to maneuver the column enough to get the horn rod out.

[fordmerc7]

I did it ! The horn works !
I pulled up the rod about 12 inches so I could remove horn button (undo the prongs).
Kit from Snyders had wire with horn button contact end installed.
Threaded wire through column to determine length ; stripped wire from 1 3/16 inch above bottom of rod.
Re-thread stripped end through column, install horn button and bend prongs. Slide insulator over wire from below and push into rod (pressure on horn button ring); slide cup (tinned) over wire and insert into insulator.
Solder wire into cup and fill cup with solder.
Cut off wire at end or the cup; smooth the surface with a small file.
Reinstall light switch and AHOOGAH !

[Cape Codder]

fordmerc7- Nice job and thanks for describing to everyone how you did the job! I'm assuming this was on a closed model car. Thanks Again!

[Marshall V. Daut]

For those Model A owners with closed cars, you CAN remove the light/horn tube without going to the trouble of also removing the steering column. First take off the light bail with switch, and then the spider retaining clip, the spider itself and spring from the bottom of the steering column. The light/horn tube should now be free to be pulled up.

Next, unscrew and remove the two odd-shaped bolts securing the lower clamp to the gas tank, pull off the lower clamp and pull down on the column a bit. Late 1931 columns are secured differently, but the concept is the same. You don't want to bend anything too much when pushing the steering column downwards, so just push it down far enough in order to place a small wooden or rubber block between the mast jacket and the gas tank bracket to keep it in place. This in effect lowers the angle of the steering column to facilitate tube removal. The column is long enough so that there is some flex ability here. Just don't overdo it.

For sedans, begin pulling the tube up and out of the steering jacket while slightly bending it downwards in an arc. Use a rag in the hand that is guiding the tube because it will be greasy. Keep the hand holding the tube up foot or two from the steering wheel so that you can control the bending process. The idea is to bend the tube only enough so that the portion with the light lever and horn button will be low enough to clear the headliner. Cover the upper portion with a rag, too, to keep any grease from rubbing against the headliner. You will feel when the rod is about ready to clear the steering column. Move your left hand down to where the rod will exit the steering shaft so that you can keep it from whipping once it clears the steering wheel. Simply reverse the procedure to re-install the rod after repairs have been made or a replacement rod installed. Any slight bending of the rod created by removing or installing will be eliminated by the steering shaft as the rod is seated. One person can do this alone, although it is easier with a helper.

For coupes, the process is a little more cumbersome, but doable. The rear window and frame must be removed, or in a Sport Coupe's case, the window flap raised and secured in the open position. Once the rear window and its frame have been removed, follow the same procedure as described for the sedan, but you will be pulling the tube sideways towards the open window instead of straight back. It sounds more difficult, but it's still a lot easier and faster than removing the steering column and everything in its way (floor mat, pedal trim plates and felts, upper floorboard, brake and clutch pedals, throttle control rod, negative battery cable, starter and starter rod, pitman arm and bolt, and two steering box bolts, which can be a BEAR to get out, especially if the wrong bolts were installed or the correct ones put in backwards).

I have successfully removed the light/horn rod in both kinds of body styles. 'Dunno about a closed cab pickup truck, though. 'Never tried that. No matter what body style, just don't bend the tube any more than is necessary to clear the head liner and you'll be fine. Think of how much time, effort and cussing you saved yourself doing it this way!
Marshall