The right oil pan for a 36.

[36coupe]

I thought I would use my 8BA in the 36 until I get my 59ab engine built.
Never gave any thought to the oil pan. I guess this must be a car oil pan and I need a truck pan.
I got lucky and have one in my scrap block pile complete with a pickup.

I am also wondering what the wide long seal is for on the rear of the truck pan.

I’m using a 37 steering arm instead of the 36 arm. It seems the 37 arm curves upward and with would lift the drag link higher.

Thanks

[36coupe]

Does that look like the right oil pan to use? Will I probably have to modify the front to clear?

[tubman]

I wouldn't do it. I put a '50 Merc engine in my '36 a long time ago. I used the Merc water pumps (they are very similar to truck pumps). The engine sat too low, so I modified the front of the pan. Later on I found out that truck pumps make the engine sit higher, so the pan doesn't need to be modified. There are spacers available for use with the Merc pumps that raise the engine, but I was not aware of them back then.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by tubman

Later on I found out that truck pumps make the engine sit higher, so the pan doesn't need to be modified. There are spacers available for use with the Merc pumps that raise the engine, but I was not aware of them back then.

Here are two different examples of the U-shaped spacers that "tubman" is talking about. The second example has holes directly above one another, whereas the first example has holes that are offset, so as to accommodate for a chassis mount that is slightly wider. DD






.

[36coupe]

I have what thought are truck pumps.
Can I safely lift the front of the engine 1-1/2 to 2 inches and not interfere with the angle of the drivetrain or any clearence issues.
I have no weight sitting on the mounts in the pictures.
Thanks

[19Fordy]

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36coupe, I have the same set up as you show in your two photos using the 8RT pumps on an 8BA in a 40 coupe. I have no problems for last 50 years. As long as the rear of your engine doesn't hit the fire wall you are "good to go".

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

36coupe, I have the same set up as you show in your two photos using the 8RT pumps on an 8BA in a 40 coupe. I have no problems for last 50 years. As long as the rear of your engine doesn't hit the fire wall you are "good to go".

What oil pan are you using?

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by tubman

I wouldn't do it. I put a '50 Merc engine in my '36 a long time ago. I used the Merc water pumps (they are very similar to truck pumps). The engine sat too low, so I modified the front of the pan. Later on I found out that truck pumps make the engine sit higher, so the pan doesn't need to be modified. There are spacers available for use with the Merc pumps that raise the engine, but I was not aware of them back then.

I made a couple of 1-1/2” spacers to test the fit. They lift the front of the engine up enough to clear the oil pan.

I’ll look at everything a little closer tomorrow. Then I can drill holes in the tubing.

[Steve in Denver]

I have an 8BA in my '36 with truck water pumps. And the oil pan has a large, like 8 or 10 inch hole in it. The pan fits great.

[36coupe]

Originally Posted by Steve in Denver

I have an 8BA in my '36 with truck water pumps. And the oil pan has a large, like 8 or 10 inch hole in it. The pan fits great.

That’s the oil pan that I didn’t use. I have one I grabbed off my scrap block pile. The one in the frame is a car pan with the hump in the middle. Raising it a 1-1/2” seems to clear everything.

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by 36coupe

I made a couple of 1-1/2” spacers to test the fit. They lift the front of the engine up enough to clear the oil pan.

I’ll look at everything a little closer tomorrow. Then I can drill holes in the tubing.

What happens when you hit a bump and the spring compresses?

Bill

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by bbrocksr

What happens when you hit a bump and the spring compresses?

Bill

Real-world.....Most-likely nothing! In the first place, the drag link only interferes with the pan when the steering wheel is cranked all the way over to the hard left, or hard right. I would think that any time you have cranked-in a hard turn like that that you'll be going forward at a rather slow "maneuvering speed". Hitting ANY kind of bump at that kind of speed is NOT going to compress that spring anywhere near enough to cause any drama. DD
.

[bbrocksr]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Real-world.....Most-likely nothing! In the first place, the drag link only interferes with the pan when the steering wheel is cranked all the way over to the hard left, or hard right. I would think that any time you have cranked-in a hard turn like that that you'll be going forward at a rather slow "maneuvering speed". Hitting ANY kind of bump at that kind of speed is NOT going to compress that spring anywhere near enough to cause any drama. DD
.

If you look at the picture there is about an inch of clearance with the wheels straight ahead. The tie rod and drag link both pass under the oil pan in the same area, when the car leans to the right or hits a bump with the right front wheel it is going to be close.
Bill

[36coupe]

I cleaned up the truck pan that I had and put that on. I’m happier with the clearance and no spacers need.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by bbrocksr

If you look at the picture there is about an inch of clearance with the wheels straight ahead. The tie rod and drag link both pass under the oil pan in the same area, when the car leans to the right or hits a bump with the right front wheel it is going to be close.
Bill

Bill .....You're probably correct, and I'm wrong with my long-winded B/S above. I thought that he was talking about the TRUCK pan with the BIG clean-out, and NOT that pan that he ran the drag link UNDER with the flat bottom. SORRY! DD

.

[cas3]

In a perfect world, the front end of the crank would still line up with the original hand crank hole whether or not you plan to use it. That plan also keeps proper clearance at the back for fuel pump stand etc.