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Old 08-02-2018, 05:12 PM   #61
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Let's not put a Rocker on that otherwise flawless Model A!
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:12 PM   #62
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

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Let's not put a Rocker on that otherwise flawless Model A!
Oh great, now I'm looking for rocking chairs!
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Old 08-02-2018, 11:20 PM   #63
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Another busy day, wheels and lock ring cleaning is completed, now just getting them painted. Between coats of primer & paint, worked on other things.

Moved on to installing the clutch and transmission. The engine we used came with a very new clutch, the words "fly side" were still clearly printed on the disc when taken apart, pressure plate looked new as well. Buffed up the flywheel and pressure plate, replaced the disc and throw out bearing and put it in. Then slid the transmission into place. Hopefully next week it will be hooking up the two speed and rear end, putting on the brakes and rear tires and then maybe a little drive.
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Old 08-07-2018, 12:26 AM   #64
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Lessons learned the hard way;

Once the trans and clutch were installed, hooked up the clutch linkage and had a hard pedal and zero release of the clutch. Nothing I changed or adjusted seemed to help. Then I started reading posts here and elsewhere explaining how the clutch fingers are adjusted BEFORE installing. Some extremely useful information was found right here on the Ford barn that had been posted in the past by some of you very wise Model A experts.

Once I realized the mistake, had to walk away for day or two to digest possible remedies. Pulling the trans back out probably seems like a no-brainer, but working alone it had been a challenge getting it in and was looking to avoid pulling and reinstalling.

I decided to try and work thru the bell housing inspection hole, attempt to un-stake the coil spring nuts and adjust them in place. Using all the collective wisdom found here and elsewhere, I first made a finger depth measuring tool and attached a long zip tie. This came in handy as it did fall down into the bell housing at least once. I also used a sharpy and numbered each finger and pivot on the pressure plate cover.

The first measurement showed the fingers were showing a depth (from the outer or rear surface of the pressure plate assembly) of 7/8". The acceptable range is 5/8" to 3/4" with 11/16" considered optimal. So I marked the measuring tool (really just a lathe bit) at the beginning depth as well as the ideal depth.

Un-staking the nuts was really the hardest part of the job. Some came easy and some very hard. Once the nuts were un-staked, holding the slotted end of the spring adjusting rod with a screw driver and turning the nut (turning the nuts clockwise moves the fingers outward, toward the throw-out bearing) was not working, ended up taking a small pair of needle nose vice grips and grinding them on the sides of the jaws until they would fit in between the coils of the external finger spring and grip it tightly enough to adjust the nut.

It is surprising how a small adjustment on the nut makes such a big difference in the finger height. Went thru the measuring and adjustment process twice and also carefully watched the throw out bearing and ensured the contact with the fingers was occurring simultaneously. Not as exact as a dial indicator, but it appears to have worked. The whole process took about 2.5 hours.

Hoping to finish connecting the drive line components in the next day or so and seeing how the clutch operates.

Will I ever forget to pre-adjust a Model A clutch before installing? Not bloody likely!

Attached pics show the tool and a blurry before image and a much better after image.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20180806_082735.jpg (74.8 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg 20180806_083522_Burst01.jpg (39.8 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg 20180806_104438.jpg (60.1 KB, 19 views)
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Old 08-07-2018, 11:59 PM   #65
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Made a lot of progress today. Got the 2 speed coupled to the trans and the rear end coupled to the 2 speed. Spent more time cleaning parts then the actual bolting up process.

Next up was the 2 speed foot pedal assembly and the only rod I had to connect it with was way too long (maybe a brake rod?)but put some creative bends in it just to get the proper length and try it out.

Mixed Power Punch 50/50 with #140 gear oil and filled all gear boxes and purposely over filled the 2 speed in the hopes that it will flow (leak!) forward and backward into the couplings. Pre-greased the u-joints as most people advised but did not go overboard. Also greased up the cone shaped portions of the coupling assembly's.

Fired up the engine, pressed in the clutch, put it in gear and let the clutch out and it all seemed to work. The 2 speed seems to shift better than the trans (because it's planetary?) and the gear boxes all seemed reasonably quiet. Clutch pedal still has too much free play, but can adjust some of that, but may need to replace some of the very worn linkage as well.

All that's left in the drive train is to install the rear brakes and wheels & tires. Biggest challenge of the brakes will be that the crossbar is up inside the frame and I think its supposed to go under the frame rails? Also one end of the cross bar appears to have been cut off with a torch so will need to find a cross bar. Already have brake rods, clevis ends and pins coming from Mac's.

Can't wait to drive it and also am looking forward to doing the creative stuff like modifying the bus seat (cutting the back down) installing the rear "bed", some cleaning & painting and other things to give it more personality.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 20180807_191324.jpg (52.2 KB, 23 views)
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Old 08-10-2018, 09:10 AM   #66
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Need some help from you more experienced Model A guys; because my doodlebug started life as an early '29 without emergency brakes, but at some point received a worm drive differential WITH emergency brakes, the prior owners had concocted their own cross bar and connections. What's left to work with is one cross bar apparently out of position, that has one end cut off. They may have been driving this and only using the right rear brake.

So now I have the correct rear brake assembly's, drums, etc to restore full rear braking, but need an illustration or diagram of what the cross bars for service brake and separate emergency brake should look like.

To further complicate matters, my three speed is an earlier type with center hand brake lever.

Cutting, welding, fabbing is not a problem, just need some clues on how to proceed.

Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2018, 10:40 AM   #67
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Here are some pictures of the service brake cross shaft and emergency
brake shaft bolted to the cross member.


Bob
Attached Images
File Type: jpg AA-cross-shaft.jpg (52.1 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg $(KGrHqYOKjoE3uFdB,o-BOG,SErDPQ~~_3.jpg (98.9 KB, 22 views)
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Old 08-10-2018, 06:55 PM   #68
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

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Originally Posted by Bob C View Post
Here are some pictures of the service brake cross shaft and emergency
brake shaft bolted to the cross member.


Bob
Thanks Bob, this is really helpful! Are the two service brake cross shafts the same ones out on ebay, are they yours? i have them on my watch list.

From what I can see, the e-brake rod would come down just to the right of the drive line, from the handle to the cross shaft?

On the service brake, it seems like my cross shaft is sort of in the correct location but should be below the frame rails, not sitting on top of them?

I really appreciate your insight!
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:16 PM   #69
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Thanks Bob, this is really helpful! Are the two service brake cross shafts the same ones out on ebay, are they yours? i have them on my watch list.

From what I can see, the e-brake rod would come down just to the right of the drive line, from the handle to the cross shaft?

On the service brake, it seems like my cross shaft is sort of in the correct location but should be below the frame rails, not sitting on top of them?

I really appreciate your insight!

When you get the brakes sorted out and working well, see if you can fab up steering brakes; that is, a separate hand lever for each rear drum. Crank the steering wheel hard left (or right), grab the brake lever for that side, and spin 'er right around! This also works great if one wheel is spinning on ice or snow, mud, leaves, etc. Just feather the brake on the spinning wheel which will send more power to the wheel with better traction.
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Old 08-10-2018, 07:58 PM   #70
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Yes the picture is from ebay. The 1928-29 service brake cross shaft went through
the lower part of the frame rail. The 1930-31 service brake cross shaft was straight
and bolted to the under side of the frame rail.
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:25 PM   #71
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When you get the brakes sorted out and working well, see if you can fab up steering brakes; that is, a separate hand lever for each rear drum. Crank the steering wheel hard left (or right), grab the brake lever for that side, and spin 'er right around! This also works great if one wheel is spinning on ice or snow, mud, leaves, etc. Just feather the brake on the spinning wheel which will send more power to the wheel with better traction.
Interesting idea, will have to give that some thought!
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:26 PM   #72
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

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Yes the picture is from ebay. The 1928-29 service brake cross shaft went through
the lower part of the frame rail. The 1930-31 service brake cross shaft was straight
and bolted to the under side of the frame rail.
Thanks Bob!
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Old 08-14-2018, 11:37 PM   #73
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Service brake swap out;

Finally got to the rear brakes, the original setup was a real mishmash, luckily I was able to buy a worm drive rear end that had complete brakes in good condition including drums. Not shown in photos (because my hands were too greasy) was pre-packing the wheel bearing with grease, and installing the bearings, seals and retainers. I also went thru the backing plate to axle bolts from both rear ends and used the best ones, some of the ones on the tractor were just bolts that had a flat ground into the head and were not a good fit.

After pulling the old brakes off and getting the donors ready, I decided to use the original suspension arms that had been bobbed off, as they were cut with a little more care than the butchered pieces from the donor axle.

There is more work to do, there is enough now to connect up service brakes but still need to get some bushings for the emergency brake actuator arms as they are in pretty rough shape.

The main thing is to get this tractor moving and stopping on it's own and then this winter there will be plenty of time for the small details. Planning to mount the new tires Friday and then with a bit of luck the doodlebug will be driveable for the first time in several decades.
Attached Images
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Last edited by Liberty Garage; 08-15-2018 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 08-17-2018, 10:43 AM   #74
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Drove it!

Today after wrestling with ancient split rims and mounting tires, finally got to a point where it could at least be driven out of the shop, down the driveway and a few circles around my wife!

It drove surprisingly well, there is a long punch list of issues and other items needing to be completed, but at least it's a driver now. I'm grinning!
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Old 08-17-2018, 02:30 PM   #75
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

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Drove it!

Today after wrestling with ancient split rims and mounting tires, finally got to a point where it could at least be driven out of the shop, down the driveway and a few circles around my wife!

It drove surprisingly well, there is a long punch list of issues and other items needing to be completed, but at least it's a driver now. I'm grinning!
Wipe that silly grin off your face! (Just kidding. you earned it!) Perseverance pays!!
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Old 08-17-2018, 03:37 PM   #76
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Wipe that silly grin off your face! (Just kidding. you earned it!) Perseverance pays!!
Thanks! It took a moment to even register that I was actually driving the thing. Did a few more small fixes this morning and drove again, it's a fun little rig and will only get better.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:12 PM   #77
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Default Re: New Doodlebug Owner

Wheels, brake drums, spacers, studs, nuts and other fun things;

Mounting the tires on the newly cleaned and painted wheels was easy enough, it was the prep work to try and get it done safely with really worn out old wheels that was the challenge.

Had decided to weld a bridge from one side of the split ring to the other, after the tire was mounted and ring in place. This would theoretically keep the ring from spreading apart and blowing off. In advance of this, I pre-welded one side and positioned the ring on the welding table so the gap was in closed position and once the ring was on and a SMALL amount of air in the tire, just enough to lightly push the ring in place, I then clamped it together and welded the bridge in place. Before and during the weld process I packed a wet rag in the vicinity and also dribbled water in between the ring and tire to keep it from melting. Seemed to work.

Once it was welded and cooled off, I flipped it over, covered it with cardboard and then set the loader bucket over the assembly so just the valve stem was exposed for airing up. Then aired up to 10 pounds and checked the ring, all was good and in place, touched up the paint, aired up to 20 pounds and then proceeded to put them on.

I had ASSUMED the wheels would just bolt right on, the donor drums had a set of pretty normal looking lug nuts and thought they would just slip right on, tighten up and be done. No such luck.

The drums appear to be what are called "scalloped" and the rim does not seat down flat onto the base of the studs, it seems to hang up on the face of the hub, like the center hole in the wheel is slightly too small. From reading everything I could find, there was a spacer for early 30 scalloped drums that might fill the void and allow these to tighten, it seems like you would use the dually studs and the spacer plate to make it all fit?

The part number found for the spacer plate is AA-1123-R.

Wheels are Budd C-18596-H 11-30.

Pictures are attached, one side is assembled withe just the nuts and the other side with the studs and nuts. Both sides are about 3/16 from sitting down on the face of the hub and drum. Advice? Thanks in advance!
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg 20180816_153439.jpg (44.2 KB, 9 views)

Last edited by Liberty Garage; 08-18-2018 at 12:31 AM.
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