Disassembling '42 rear brakes

[PGBuick]

I am attempting to disassemble heavily rusted rear brakes and backing plates on a 42 chassis. Are the hubs built into the brake drums or do the drums and hubs separate? If they separate, are they screwed together or just held in place by the wheel studs? I am aware that I need a puller to get the hubs off the axle taper.
Thanks!
Pat

[Mart]

Drums do not come off separately. They are "swedged" in by the studs.

[KiWinUS]

DO NOT USE 3 LEGGED PULLER. use correct puller for the hubs or you stand a grea chance of damaging them.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by PGBuick

I am attempting to disassemble heavily rusted rear brakes and backing plates on a 42 chassis. Are the hubs built into the brake drums or do the drums and hubs separate? If they separate, are they screwed together or just held in place by the wheel studs? I am aware that I need a puller to get the hubs off the axle taper.
Thanks!
Pat

Pat.... As said above, the ORIGINAL studs have been "SWAGED" at the factory. Looking at the picture below, these studs have also been swaged. Notice how wide the ring is around the stud. That is actually a piece of the stud that has been formed to a tapered, countersunk shape thst is machined into the drum/hub. That RING can be cut off using a 5/8" HOLE SAW in a drill press. It only takes a little cutting with the hole saw to remove the locking part. Then, what remains of the stud can be pressed out of the hub.

When ready to replace, come back here and we can give you good info on that process and parts needed, also.

Coop

[PGBuick]

Thanks for the great info!

[blucar]

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The correct puller for the Ford rear drums is a version of the KR Wilson ABV-156 Ford, available from Vintage Precision.com/products

[blucar]

The pix that Coop attached of a reputed Ford drum does not show a Ford rear drum with the grove for the correct drum puller.


I have attached a source for the KR Wilson drum puller...

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by blucar

The pix that Coop attached of a reputed Ford drum does not show a Ford rear drum with the grove for the correct drum puller.

You SHOULD note that nothing in my post made any mention of drum pullers. I merely used the picture shown to illustrate a SWAGED STUD after the gentleman inquired about how the drum was held to the hub.

Coop

.

[PGBuick]

Drums are off. Old Blue Point puller did the trick. Great advice on the Vintage Precision website for penetrating oil and technique. Hardware inside looks useable, but may need some brake cable parts. Drums are toast. Are these parts available? I will get the studs removed and go from there. Where do I get new swageable studs? Advice on swaging tools? Thanks!

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by PGBuick

Drums are off. Old Blue Point puller did the trick. Great advice on the Vintage Precision website for penetrating oil and technique. Hardware inside looks useable, but may need some brake cable parts. Drums are toast. Are these parts available? I will get the studs removed and go from there. Where do I get new swageable studs? Advice on swaging tools? Thanks!

Pat.... First, we need to know exactly which year your hubs/drums are, since it is possible that they have been SWAPPED in the past. New drums are not available for '42 thru '48 drum/hub assemblies with the drum mounted BEHIND the hub's flange like seen BELOW. Before we go any further, which type drums do you have as seen BELOW?

Coop


Drums NOT Available For - BELOW





If the hub flange is INSIDE the drum (like the two types BELOW), NEW drums are available.

New Drums Available For Drums - BELOW












.

[PGBuick]

Coop:
Flange is on the outside like the first photo.
Two questions:
Does that mean I cannot use the hubs with any type of new drum?
Would the backing plates and internal hardware work with a drum/hub combo that is available?
Still working this rear brake solution, which was to attempt to use the hardware I have in-hand to save money vs. a whole rear brake conversion kit to convert my 36 to juice brakes.
Thanks all.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by PGBuick

Coop:
Flange is on the outside like the first photo.
Two questions:
Does that mean I cannot use the hubs with any type of new drum?
Would the backing plates and internal hardware work with a drum/hub combo that is available?
Still working this rear brake solution, which was to attempt to use the hardware I have in-hand to save money vs. a whole rear brake conversion kit to convert my 36 to juice brakes.
Thanks all.

Pat.... Unfortunately, I know of NO replacement drum, much less one of any quality that will fit those '42-'48 hubs. There are a couple of different ways to approach your dilemma.

New, very high quality drums are available from Boling Brothers, who also can supply any parts necessary, up to and including a complete system for the 1940 & '41 drums (which will bolt-on just like your '42 drums) as well as Bendix self-energizing backing plates. Your existing backing plates are compatible with the replacement '40 & '41 drums and hubs, which I've shown BELOW.

The drums are $160, and the hubs are $225 From Boling Bros. But keep in mind that Gary at "Cornhuskers Hot Rods" (who goes by "Krylon32" here on F'Barn) is a Boling Bros. dealer and offers a 10 % discount to us folks here on the 'Barn.








Link BELOW for Boling Bros. info site!

https://www.bolingbrothers.com/hubs-drums/


There is one other way that you could possibly approach this. If you could possibly acquire two '40/'41 rear drums that have worn-out drums, separate the hubs from the drums, and replace with Boling Bros. new drums. Lots of folks have worn-out drums/hubs laying around for reasonable moneys. Occasionally, you can find hubs advertised in the "SWAP MEET" section or on eBay that have already had the drums removed. I can suggest a couple of different Ford Barn members that may have '40/'41 rear hubs for sale.

New drums are attached to old hubs by first carefully cutting the old swages with a 5/8" hole saw (this is a process that is not difficult to accomplish, but must be FULLY understood, and then accomplished using great care). Then, carefully pressing each old stud out while supporting hub flange from rear. Then, reaming the empty stud holes to 0.600", and installing Dorman 610-234 studs.

Glad to help with any more questions!

Coop

.

[PGBuick]

Thanks a bunch Coop. Not saving much by trying to find all my own parts, per your excellent suggestions. Perhaps satisfying, yet time is precious! I'll take a look for some 40/41 hubs.

[PGBuick]

And what is the stack-up issue with the '42 hubs? In other words, briefly, how do the parts I have differ from 40/41 and why wouldn't the 42 hubs work with 40 drums? I assume it is related to positioning of the drum relative to the backing plate and shoes, as measured on the axle axis?

[cas3]

Your later drums mount on the inside of the hub flange, and the early style mount on the outside of the hub flange. so, in other words, the flange location of your hubs are in the wrong place to accept the early style drum, which is the only kind being reproduced. There is a place that can re line your old drums, its been mentioned here, but I do not have the info

[JayChicago]

Doubt relining would be cheaper, after shipping both ways. And then there is the turn-around time. Here is something copied from the HAMB, posted October 2021:

J&G Brake relining McHenry IL. 815-276-2578.
https://www.jgrelining.com/

Yep, that's who I was asking about. For those interested, I called them and it looks like a good option. ~$300/drum and ~$60/shoes. Currently running about 6-7 weeks turn around time. Shipping is on you both ways.