Stuck rear hub - how to get it off

[sr325]

Hey Guys,

Has anyone encountered REAL difficulty getting a rear hub off? My right hub came off with nothing but a bit of pressure with a manual puller. The other one won't even come off with a 5 ton hydraulic puller. I even tried heating, though not with a full on acetylene torch.

Any ideas? Thanks much.

[wrndln]

I suspect the brake shoes are rusted/bonded to the inside drum surface. Did you back off the adjusting wedge completely to relieve pressure on the drum? You probably already did that.

[Mad Mac]

I had the same problem. A combination of full-on heat and a good puller eventually worked, with a very loud "bang"!

[Jim M]

I had the same problem some years ago when I started on my project that had set in a barn for 30 years. Put a puller on and put some pressure on it. Sprayed LOTS of WD40 all around. Left it overnight and next day put a little more pressure on the puller and more WD. As I remember it took about 4 days till I had crap scared out of me when it finally let go.

[WHN]

Be careful with to much heat.

Take your time. Make sure the brake shoes are retracted, both service and emergency.

Take your time!!! Use penetrating oil. Give it “time” to work.

Again watch the heat.

Keep us posted.

[Kurt in NJ]

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what kind of puller are you using?
Are you pulling by the wheel studs, or by the groove on the hub?

[RDVAARK]

Iff this is stuck because of the taper, loosen the nut a couple turns, not all the way off. Put your puller on and draw it tight. Get two equal good sized hammers- maybe a pound each- comparable to a framing hammer in size, only a ball peen or small sledge. Practice hitting them together-like clapping hands-not too hard. Strike the side of the taper,pretty hard, both sides at once-not in sequence. The taper is a tight fit, and after a long time and with rust and a long life with a load, it is extremely well fitted. The synchronised blows from two sides expand the circumference infinitesmaly(?) and the puller, being under load, moves it in that instant. If the blows aren't in time, you will just leave hammer marks on the hub. The hammers exert an equal force in opposite directions, and wouldn't hurt the hub.
If you're timid or don't coordinate, it won't. Some old timers may have seen this or do it.
I'm no trying to hurt you or your car. It does work.

[nkaminar]

Best puller in my experience is the one listed below. Buy nuts to fit the shaft and put them on with a couple of treads showing. Don't use the castle nut. Follow directions in the box with the puller. The puller may come with a nut.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6169&cat=41753

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Best puller in my experience is the one listed below. Buy nuts to fit the shaft and put them on with a couple of treads showing. Don't use the castle nut. Follow directions in the box with the puller. The puller may come with a nut.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6169&cat=41753

I plan on making one of those pullers for myself but till then, I'll have to keep using my old one - the split type with a sleeve that goes over it. I'm not impressed with it as a decent pull distorts it where it pulls on the hub.
I have used heat to try to get a hub off but no go. All I had was a LPG torch and I think an acetylene torch would have done better. On that one, I was in no hurry so I tensioned it as far as I was game and left it. On day 3, I was in the workshop doing something else when I heard it let go. Ah ha! That gotchya, you #$%^.

[Curtis in MA]

One thing I read here (tried it once but can't remember if it worked) was to put the axle nut on a few turns loose, put the wheel back on and drive it around the yard.

[Joe K]

All good suggestions.

As to heat, get yourself some welder's "temp-sticks." Any welding supply store should have them at graduated temperatures. You want the ones for 400 degrees.

Generally metallurgical changes for most any steel begin at 400F. It is possible to go above this but effects such as "grain growth" or "annealing" begin fractionally at 400F.

Heating the hub exterior should be "quick" and "annular." You want the wheel off the ground and someone else to help by "rotating" the wheel. Use an actual acetylene torch with a rosebud (large diameter torch tip designed to give a short, bud-shaped flame of larger diameter) A propane torch alone won't cut it unless its one of the B-size tank torches - better with oxy-acetylene.

Joe K

[Phil Brown]

Tighten up the hub puller and give the center bolt (the one pushing on the axle ) a good smack with that 5 lb. Hammer. Don't beat it to death just need to shock it and it should pop free

[Mike Peters]

These universal hub pullers were common in repair shops of the 30's and 40's for all the cars and trucks with tapered hub rear brake drums.
These days, they turn up at the occasional swap meet for 50 bucks or less.
It barely will fit a rear Model A hub, but with patience, it will go on and center itself. The legs are spring loaded and fully adjustable. Use your least favorite axle nut to protect the axle threads, tighten with a hammer, and, as others have said, give it a smart whack with a heavy sledge hammer. I've never had a rear brake drum say no yet.

[sr325]

Hi Guys,

Wow! Thanks for all the good tips. I was finally able to get it off. The trick with two hammers did the job. And, Boy did it come with a loud pop. Wow! I was starting to get Really worried.What a relief! Ok, now I can get on to rebuilding the breaks.

Thanks all.

Richard

[WHN]

Originally Posted by Mike Peters

These universal hub pullers were common in repair shops of the 30's and 40's for all the cars and trucks with tapered hub rear brake drums.
These days, they turn up at the occasional swap meet for 50 bucks or less.
It barely will fit a rear Model A hub, but with patience, it will go on and center itself. The legs are spring loaded and fully adjustable. Use your least favorite axle nut to protect the axle threads, tighten with a hammer, and, as others have said, give it a smart whack with a heavy sledge hammer. I've never had a rear brake drum say no yet.

Very impressive piece of equipment.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Best puller in my experience is the one listed below. Buy nuts to fit the shaft and put them on with a couple of treads showing. Don't use the castle nut. Follow directions in the box with the puller. The puller may come with a nut.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6169&cat=41753

Yes, that is the one I have, made by Mitchell Manufacturing (the O/D folks). Works well.

[RDVAARK]

The "two hammer trick" works on any taper joint-suspension joints, propellers, people are usually startled by the 'pop'. Glad to help.

[Bruce of MN]

I have read stories about the hub or whatever flying across the room when it came loose and damaging things or people and the recommendation was to have some sort of tether rigged. It may be just lore. I used the split type with a sleeve the first time I pulled the hub and it just popped, easier since.

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I have read stories about the hub or whatever flying across the room when it came loose and damaging things or people and the recommendation was to have some sort of tether rigged. It may be just lore. I used the split type with a sleeve the first time I pulled the hub and it just popped, easier since.

Sounds like someone is confused with the rear spring

[Grumps]

I went to a local swap meet yesterday and found a universal hub puller like Mike Peters shows in his post. It's made by Snap-On, and it was used by the military recently because of the military unit's numbers that was etched on it. I asked the guy where he got it, and he said it was in a military surplus auction. So, if you're looking for one you might want to start checking Military Surplus stores in your area.