The Ford Barn

DavidG · 12-07-2022, 03:06 PM

Chris,

It is not normal for oil to exit from the dip stick hole, but perhaps not surprising given its 5/16" size. I'll check what it should be tomorrow or if your other engine is handy it also may have an unaltered dipstick hole.

sugarmaker · 12-08-2022, 10:10 AM

David,
My old block is laying on that side right now. But I dont remember oil coming out there on that engine. Would like to find a ferrel with a shoulder to gently press in the block and accept the dip stick. (another small project to add to the list!

I removed the gas and removed the gas tank from the truck last night:

Yes a good cleaning was in order too. Found a rust area in the stiffener behind the tank. Directly under the wooden spacer block. That will be left alone for now. The tank was rubbing on four bolt heads in the frame. I will try to provide clearance for the tank when it goes back in. (Shiny spots at about 2:00 in this picture)

Here is the area of the inside door corner which needed fixed:

After some surgery to remove the bad area:

I made a pretty good run at the repair. then was mad at myself for making the patch too short! Of course I did not realize that untill it was welded in place. Recovery is everything, so we moved on.

With this patch bubble gummed in place with the old MIG, I turned to the rusted off end of windlace strip. I just moved the fastner hole up about a half inch to hit my short repair metal work. Not as Henry built it but will be functional for a while.

Dont laugh too hard! My crude attempt at metal forming these tight beads in the strip. I would be dangerous if I had some correct tooling to help make metal forming easier:

Goal will be to get the windlacing installed before the tank goes back in!

Next the gas level indicating system came out of the tank. Probably some very gentle clean up required, like vinegar soaking? I will need some help in making sure this is going to function before it goes back in the tank. Open to suggestions on this unknown area. Will look at the 32 books to gain some insite.

I see a male threaded connection coming off the bottom. I assume this will need to be connected to the dash system with a tube. I assume this is where the red fluid goes?

I did order a speedo cable from Snyders They list it for the AA trucks 85 inches long. Hoping it fits correct on both ends with the fittings??
So If I happened to get the speedometor and the fuel guage working, that would be a good improvement in the driveability for anyone driving the truck.

Thanks for checking in on me, and the ragged old truck as we move towards a new year.

Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 12-08-2022, 11:24 AM

Chris,

The hole in the block for the dipstick should be 7/16" or no more than 1/4" on the outside (my block is painted which may account for the 7/32" measurement).

I use metal prep to clean the fuel gauge tank unit. All of its tubes must sufficiently clean to permit air to pass through them. There is a small hole in the bottom of the can-shaped part near the bottom that must also be open for the passage of air.

The threaded connection on the outside is where the air line to the gauge on the instrument panel is attached. The red fluid is in the gauge itself, not in the line coming from the fuel tank. The air line and fittings for the ends of that air line are not likely to be found at your local hardware store, but they are available if your originals are long gone.

Your fabricated weatherstrip retainer section is very innovative. Corrosion in that location on the left side of the cab suggests that at some point in the past, the door window was left open while the truck was parked outdoors for some length of time.

sugarmaker · 12-08-2022, 04:28 PM

David,
Good info on the cleaning of the fuel assembly.
Found more rust behind the gas tank, in the floor and bottom of the cross brace. Cleaned the area and added a steel patch in that area.
Regards,
Chris

sugarmaker · 12-09-2022, 09:41 AM

Folks,
Learning a lot on these old big trucks talking with Robert R! He is following along as a lurker!

Here is a picture of a area behind the gas tank that was in need of repair due to rust. Now please keep in mind I do not do restorations. I do projects requiring Refurbishment Cleaning and maybe Painting.

A patch was crudly fashioned to cover the hole in the floor and also repair the cross stiffiner. Then this was Mig welded in place with spot weld areas and some continious welding of the seams. Welds were ground relatively smooth, and a coat of flat black appiled. From a structral stand point it is as good or better than new. From a 1000 point restoration, not close!

Looking down on the small patch in the behind the seat area of the floor. This was welded to the new larger patch prior to install. then was welded to the cleaned floor area over the rust hole.

The end result is a solid patch that will not bother me when sleeping at night.

I was able to get the windlacing around the drivers door area. Door does not shut well now. It is much tighter. Adjusted the striker latch portion in the door, but still requires a lot of pressure to close. By the way, putting these in the truck is not the easiest thing. I would rather put a engine in!

On to the gas gage system, and gas tank install, in the near future. Cleaning and research and more learning. I did get a couple leads for fuel related items from Michael Driskell.

Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 12-09-2022, 10:03 AM

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Chris,

Removing the gas tank has created a number of side projects, which is a pretty common outcome when working on old cars and trucks. Now you don't have to lose any sleep wondering what's behind the gas tank.

sugarmaker · 12-09-2022, 10:12 AM

Folks,
David,
Yes the best/ worst thing I found was the tank resting and rubbing on the four bolt heads on the top of the frame. These have been lowered about 1/8 of a inch and If I get new tank to frame welting this should not have a problem hitting these bolt heads for another 90 years.(note to self) I need to put some paint on thsoe bare spots on the tank!
Off to work on some windlacing on the passemgers side.

Regards,
Chris

GB SISSON · 12-09-2022, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sugarmaker

Folks,
David,
Yes the best/ worst thing I found was the tank resting and rubbing on the four bolt heads on the top of the frame. These have been lowered about 1/8 of a inch and If I get new tank to frame welting this should not have a problem hitting these bolt heads for another 90 years.(note to self) I need to put some paint on thsoe bare spots on the tank!
Off to work on some windlacing on the passemgers side.

Regards,
Chris

Chris, I always enjoy your posts. We share a philosophy about the old trucks, and the way we repair them. The fact that they don't have to sleep out in the rain insures that they will outlive our old bones!

Dad250 · 12-09-2022, 11:40 AM

Chris -
I was thinking about what you said about door work - You'd rather change an engine !?

This is what my drivers side door alignment wedge looks like as compared to passenger side. Clearly more use on driver getting in and out over the years - It appears to be formed from sheet metals ? Why did Henry cheap out on this high wear part ?

Keep on Keeping On with the repairs !

sugarmaker · 12-09-2022, 01:17 PM

GB,
Yes we have some of the same ideas. One of my big things is that I am not getting any younger and I really don't want a project torn apart for a long time, before I can drive it.
Your jailbar projects are always interesting and informative, for sure!

Rory,
Bob drake may have that striker? I had to get mine from summit racing. Yes they had it in stock. It may be chrome? your door looks way better than mine did! Yes they (Ford) did not really expect these would still be running the back roads! You need to start a thread on your truck project. (Good job getting the pictures loaded)
Engine work is not art work like body work! Just nuts and bolts! Repairing and having body work look as good as new is not for everyone. My brain understands the concepts, the hands just don't seem to follow through!

Helped John a little with some horn wiring. Solder connections.
Regards,
Chris

sugarmaker · 12-10-2022, 07:47 AM

Ford folks,
i was able to solve the mystery of the oil dipstick tube hole in the block. was looking thriugh the vast warehouse for something that might be used to neck down the large hole.
I picked up a brass fitting, then realized the block was tapped to accept this fitting. 1/8 pipe probably? Cut the fitting short, drilled out to fit the dipstick, added screw driver slot and here it is:

Not perfect but close enough:

Rest of the windlacing is in place:

The real key to this was getting a milk crate to set on in the cab:

I did get the new speedo cable from Snyders. It looks like its going to work just fine. This is for the AA truck and is 85 inches long:

The gas gage, the good side,

The bad side, looks like the top has rusted off? Still in dash. Not sure this is going to be a servicable unit?

Last day of deer hunting with high power rifle today in PA. After Christmas will be flintlock season. Will spend some time in the woods.
Regards,
Chris

Pat/Ohio · 12-10-2022, 08:47 AM

Chris, I am really enjoying your posts (with pictures)! You are doing a great job of "loving" the old truck!

Blessings,
Pat

sidevalve8ba · 12-10-2022, 09:56 AM

Chris,
Where did you get your windlace for your cab?

Thanks,
Ted

sugarmaker · 12-10-2022, 10:21 AM

Pat,
Thanks, trying to motivate, and help others spend lots of money!

Ted,
This windlace was made by local fab shop. Just 3/8 foam cord covered with black vinyl. Not original type material so I will get points deducted!

You need about 10 feet for each door.
One piece 45 3/8" long for the back of the door. The rest is one piece for the front and above the door. I chose to be lazy and not clean up the metal strips. Also used all the original rusty headed screws. Hope that helps. It's almost a given that the tank needs to come out to do this. No room next to the tank at the bottom of the door area.
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 12-10-2022, 11:01 AM

Chris,

It is truly weird that along the way someone would enlarge and add threads to the hole in the block for the dipstick, but yours is a slick solution to return the hole size to stock.

Earlier you mentioned webbing between the gas tank and where it rests on the cab floor. This suggests to me that the tank had been removed previously and that the original rubber pads had been replaced with thinner webbing thereby creating interference with the bolt heads below.

A sheared male dovetail is a real rarity and it suggests that that truck saw a lot of use on unimproved roads back in the day. Bent dovetails, sure, but a sheared one is a first for me and I've seen a heck of a lot of them over the years (at least of 80 '32-'40 cars' and trucks' worth of my own for starters).

sugarmaker · 12-10-2022, 12:08 PM

Folks,
Got cold in the tree stand. Back in for warm up and lunch. couple things:
1. My passengers side inside door handle is missing the spring loaded feature to hold it up in the locked position. I have not taken thsi apart and it is down on the list of Ford things to do. But any suggestions might get me going on that project.

2. one of the metal cups with rubber inside that hold the windsheild support bracke has gone missing. Maybe didnt have one when I got the truck? Looking for another. Maybe Snyders or third Gen has them? Yep found them at Third Gen. Will get a set on next order.

David,
Gas tank pads?? Well truck tank had a strip of welting about 1 inch wide and it had been compressed to about 1/4 inch thick. I will have to do some research on the rubber pads.

Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 12-10-2022, 01:37 PM

Chris,

The required spring for your 1. is widely available. Installing it isn't as easy.

sugarmaker · 12-10-2022, 02:18 PM

David, Folks,
I will check on the spring at some point, maybe? Thanks for the warning.

Do you think my gas gage is worth removing? The top is rusted it looks not very good from the picture. I did find some fittings, small line, gasket, and die that might work from the tank to the gage. These are at Straight-Eight.com.
Soaking the tank portion of gage unit in vinegar at the moment. Is there a pictoral of how this system works? Very interesting!
Sorry lots more questions than answers.
I did find some welting of various sizes at Restoration Specialities company. Have not found the rubber pads you speak of?
Regards,
Chris

DavidG · 12-10-2022, 03:59 PM

The tank pads are the same material as we use for passenger car gas tank attachment and we make them from sheet rubber and punch in the required hole.
.
I am curious what those four bolts with the protruding heads are for (attached to something .beneath the cross member). They strike me as something of a post-production addition.

Bob C · 12-10-2022, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidG

The tank pads are the same material as we use for passenger car gas tank attachment and we make them from sheet rubber and punch in the required hole.
.
I am curious what those four bolts with the protruding heads are for (attached to something .beneath the cross member). They strike me as something of a post-production addition.

Maybe a bracket to support the PTO shaft.

12-07-2022, 03:06 PM	#1761
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Chris, It is not normal for oil to exit from the dip stick hole, but perhaps not surprising given its 5/16" size. I'll check what it should be tomorrow or if your other engine is handy it also may have an unaltered dipstick hole.

12-08-2022, 10:10 AM	#1762
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck David, My old block is laying on that side right now. But I dont remember oil coming out there on that engine. Would like to find a ferrel with a shoulder to gently press in the block and accept the dip stick. (another small project to add to the list! I removed the gas and removed the gas tank from the truck last night: Yes a good cleaning was in order too. Found a rust area in the stiffener behind the tank. Directly under the wooden spacer block. That will be left alone for now. The tank was rubbing on four bolt heads in the frame. I will try to provide clearance for the tank when it goes back in. (Shiny spots at about 2:00 in this picture) Here is the area of the inside door corner which needed fixed: After some surgery to remove the bad area: I made a pretty good run at the repair. then was mad at myself for making the patch too short! Of course I did not realize that untill it was welded in place. Recovery is everything, so we moved on. With this patch bubble gummed in place with the old MIG, I turned to the rusted off end of windlace strip. I just moved the fastner hole up about a half inch to hit my short repair metal work. Not as Henry built it but will be functional for a while. Dont laugh too hard! My crude attempt at metal forming these tight beads in the strip. I would be dangerous if I had some correct tooling to help make metal forming easier: Goal will be to get the windlacing installed before the tank goes back in! Next the gas level indicating system came out of the tank. Probably some very gentle clean up required, like vinegar soaking? I will need some help in making sure this is going to function before it goes back in the tank. Open to suggestions on this unknown area. Will look at the 32 books to gain some insite. I see a male threaded connection coming off the bottom. I assume this will need to be connected to the dash system with a tube. I assume this is where the red fluid goes? I did order a speedo cable from Snyders They list it for the AA trucks 85 inches long. Hoping it fits correct on both ends with the fittings?? So If I happened to get the speedometor and the fuel guage working, that would be a good improvement in the driveability for anyone driving the truck. Thanks for checking in on me, and the ragged old truck as we move towards a new year. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets Last edited by sugarmaker; 12-08-2022 at 10:44 AM.

12-08-2022, 11:24 AM	#1763
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Chris, The hole in the block for the dipstick should be 7/16" or no more than 1/4" on the outside (my block is painted which may account for the 7/32" measurement). I use metal prep to clean the fuel gauge tank unit. All of its tubes must sufficiently clean to permit air to pass through them. There is a small hole in the bottom of the can-shaped part near the bottom that must also be open for the passage of air. The threaded connection on the outside is where the air line to the gauge on the instrument panel is attached. The red fluid is in the gauge itself, not in the line coming from the fuel tank. The air line and fittings for the ends of that air line are not likely to be found at your local hardware store, but they are available if your originals are long gone. Your fabricated weatherstrip retainer section is very innovative. Corrosion in that location on the left side of the cab suggests that at some point in the past, the door window was left open while the truck was parked outdoors for some length of time.

12-08-2022, 04:28 PM	#1764
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck David, Good info on the cleaning of the fuel assembly. Found more rust behind the gas tank, in the floor and bottom of the cross brace. Cleaned the area and added a steel patch in that area. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

12-09-2022, 09:41 AM	#1765
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Folks, Learning a lot on these old big trucks talking with Robert R! He is following along as a lurker! Here is a picture of a area behind the gas tank that was in need of repair due to rust. Now please keep in mind I do not do restorations. I do projects requiring Refurbishment Cleaning and maybe Painting. A patch was crudly fashioned to cover the hole in the floor and also repair the cross stiffiner. Then this was Mig welded in place with spot weld areas and some continious welding of the seams. Welds were ground relatively smooth, and a coat of flat black appiled. From a structral stand point it is as good or better than new. From a 1000 point restoration, not close! Looking down on the small patch in the behind the seat area of the floor. This was welded to the new larger patch prior to install. then was welded to the cleaned floor area over the rust hole. The end result is a solid patch that will not bother me when sleeping at night. I was able to get the windlacing around the drivers door area. Door does not shut well now. It is much tighter. Adjusted the striker latch portion in the door, but still requires a lot of pressure to close. By the way, putting these in the truck is not the easiest thing. I would rather put a engine in! On to the gas gage system, and gas tank install, in the near future. Cleaning and research and more learning. I did get a couple leads for fuel related items from Michael Driskell. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets Last edited by sugarmaker; 12-09-2022 at 09:49 AM.

12-09-2022, 10:03 AM	#1766
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Chris, Removing the gas tank has created a number of side projects, which is a pretty common outcome when working on old cars and trucks. Now you don't have to lose any sleep wondering what's behind the gas tank.

12-09-2022, 10:12 AM	#1767
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Folks, David, Yes the best/ worst thing I found was the tank resting and rubbing on the four bolt heads on the top of the frame. These have been lowered about 1/8 of a inch and If I get new tank to frame welting this should not have a problem hitting these bolt heads for another 90 years.(note to self) I need to put some paint on thsoe bare spots on the tank! Off to work on some windlacing on the passemgers side. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

12-09-2022, 11:40 AM	#1769
Dad250 Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2022 Location: Biglerville, PA Posts: 23	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Chris - I was thinking about what you said about door work - You'd rather change an engine !? This is what my drivers side door alignment wedge looks like as compared to passenger side. Clearly more use on driver getting in and out over the years - It appears to be formed from sheet metals ? Why did Henry cheap out on this high wear part ? Keep on Keeping On with the repairs ! __________________ 1932 B Pickup w/ 4cyl

12-09-2022, 01:17 PM	#1770
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck GB, Yes we have some of the same ideas. One of my big things is that I am not getting any younger and I really don't want a project torn apart for a long time, before I can drive it. Your jailbar projects are always interesting and informative, for sure! Rory, Bob drake may have that striker? I had to get mine from summit racing. Yes they had it in stock. It may be chrome? your door looks way better than mine did! Yes they (Ford) did not really expect these would still be running the back roads! You need to start a thread on your truck project. (Good job getting the pictures loaded) Engine work is not art work like body work! Just nuts and bolts! Repairing and having body work look as good as new is not for everyone. My brain understands the concepts, the hands just don't seem to follow through! Helped John a little with some horn wiring. Solder connections. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

12-10-2022, 07:47 AM	#1771
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Ford folks, i was able to solve the mystery of the oil dipstick tube hole in the block. was looking thriugh the vast warehouse for something that might be used to neck down the large hole. I picked up a brass fitting, then realized the block was tapped to accept this fitting. 1/8 pipe probably? Cut the fitting short, drilled out to fit the dipstick, added screw driver slot and here it is: Not perfect but close enough: Rest of the windlacing is in place: The real key to this was getting a milk crate to set on in the cab: I did get the new speedo cable from Snyders. It looks like its going to work just fine. This is for the AA truck and is 85 inches long: The gas gage, the good side, The bad side, looks like the top has rusted off? Still in dash. Not sure this is going to be a servicable unit? Last day of deer hunting with high power rifle today in PA. After Christmas will be flintlock season. Will spend some time in the woods. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

12-10-2022, 08:47 AM	#1772
Pat/Ohio Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wilmington, OH/Lakeland, FL Posts: 951	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Chris, I am really enjoying your posts (with pictures)! You are doing a great job of "loving" the old truck! Blessings, Pat

12-10-2022, 09:56 AM	#1773
sidevalve8ba Senior Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Harrisonburg, VA Posts: 842	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Chris, Where did you get your windlace for your cab? Thanks, Ted

12-10-2022, 10:21 AM	#1774
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Pat, Thanks, trying to motivate, and help others spend lots of money! Ted, This windlace was made by local fab shop. Just 3/8 foam cord covered with black vinyl. Not original type material so I will get points deducted! You need about 10 feet for each door. One piece 45 3/8" long for the back of the door. The rest is one piece for the front and above the door. I chose to be lazy and not clean up the metal strips. Also used all the original rusty headed screws. Hope that helps. It's almost a given that the tank needs to come out to do this. No room next to the tank at the bottom of the door area. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

12-10-2022, 11:01 AM	#1775
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Chris, It is truly weird that along the way someone would enlarge and add threads to the hole in the block for the dipstick, but yours is a slick solution to return the hole size to stock. Earlier you mentioned webbing between the gas tank and where it rests on the cab floor. This suggests to me that the tank had been removed previously and that the original rubber pads had been replaced with thinner webbing thereby creating interference with the bolt heads below. A sheared male dovetail is a real rarity and it suggests that that truck saw a lot of use on unimproved roads back in the day. Bent dovetails, sure, but a sheared one is a first for me and I've seen a heck of a lot of them over the years (at least of 80 '32-'40 cars' and trucks' worth of my own for starters).

12-10-2022, 12:08 PM	#1776
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Folks, Got cold in the tree stand. Back in for warm up and lunch. couple things: 1. My passengers side inside door handle is missing the spring loaded feature to hold it up in the locked position. I have not taken thsi apart and it is down on the list of Ford things to do. But any suggestions might get me going on that project. 2. one of the metal cups with rubber inside that hold the windsheild support bracke has gone missing. Maybe didnt have one when I got the truck? Looking for another. Maybe Snyders or third Gen has them? Yep found them at Third Gen. Will get a set on next order. David, Gas tank pads?? Well truck tank had a strip of welting about 1 inch wide and it had been compressed to about 1/4 inch thick. I will have to do some research on the rubber pads. Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

12-10-2022, 01:37 PM	#1777
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck Chris, The required spring for your 1. is widely available. Installing it isn't as easy.

12-10-2022, 02:18 PM	#1778
sugarmaker Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Albion PA Posts: 1,677	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck David, Folks, I will check on the spring at some point, maybe? Thanks for the warning. Do you think my gas gage is worth removing? The top is rusted it looks not very good from the picture. I did find some fittings, small line, gasket, and die that might work from the tank to the gage. These are at Straight-Eight.com. Soaking the tank portion of gage unit in vinegar at the moment. Is there a pictoral of how this system works? Very interesting! Sorry lots more questions than answers. I did find some welting of various sizes at Restoration Specialities company. Have not found the rubber pads you speak of? Regards, Chris __________________ 1932 AAB Truck 1953 Ford Jubilee 2015 Ford F250 SuperCrew Lots of Allis tractors Some Cub Cadets

12-10-2022, 03:59 PM	#1779
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,101	Re: 1932 The Deuce, Dually, Dump Truck The tank pads are the same material as we use for passenger car gas tank attachment and we make them from sheet rubber and punch in the required hole. . I am curious what those four bolts with the protruding heads are for (attached to something .beneath the cross member). They strike me as something of a post-production addition.