Has anybody here bought this starter?

[FordCustom]

Looks great and the price is okay to me. Just wondering if anyone has dealt with this company, and or bought this starter? I was trying to get mine started. The motor spun a time or two without engaging the flywheel, and a couple of times it moved the fan a half inch or so.

http://www.earlyfordstore.com/produc...oducts_id/5837

[expavr]

I've bought NOS and new parts from these folks several times. They are decent folks to deal with. I have no knowledge about the quality of the 12V starter, but the Early Ford Store stands behind the parts they sell. I had the lock cylinder come out of a door handle they sold me and they exchanged it - no questions asked.

[scooder]

Mr custom, it sounds (if battery is good and all connections and solenoid good) that your starter may just need a going through. Clean up not forgetting the areas that bolt to the sump for ground, clean the armature, clean the end plate and fit new brushes. An easy job, and worth doing if it saves having to buy a new starter.
Martin.

[Ed Pitts]

Here is a post from Ronnie with a comment from me. This works and is a lot cheaper than 185 bucks. Ed

"Take your flathead starter apart. Keep the long through-bolts and end plate with the armature and bendix. Turn the armature if required. Don't under-cut the copper bars on armature. Use the starter from 332, 352, 360, 390 or 406 c.i. Ford FE engines as the conversion starter. Disassemble the FE starter. Keep the end plate with brushes and case with field coils. Check the bushing in the end plate and replace if necessary. The wire size and number of windings on the FE and flathead armatures and they are the same.

Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.

You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself."

This works. I have done this for two 12 volt starter conversions. On the last one I got a rebuilt starter from O'Rileys to use the case. It was for a 1964 Ford Galaxie; 390 cu in. engine. The part # is 03-0214 and the line is ULT. Cost was $39.99 plus 20 bucks for the core. So, for 60 bucks, you can have a 12 volt starter that works great.
Ed

[FordCustom]

Wow, that sounds like what I need to do. What do you do if the Bendix is shot? I'm assuming they can be bought somewhere? As for buying the starter, I work for an auto parts store. It may be even cheaper!

[JWL]

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You can also save some $$ by shopping around. All the suppliers are selling the same item and the place mentioned in the original post is not the low price supplier.

[Tony, NY]

I just had a starter rebuilt locally, and converted to 12v, for $75. Don't know if that's a good price or not.

[PeterC]

I bought a similar new unit but from VanPelt as he changes the bendix to an original style- I keep the new one as a backup unit - you might want to check his offering out as well

[Ronnie]

Hey Ed It's great to hear that that simple system works. I don't think you could even get a rebuilt 6 volt starter exchange for 60.00 maybe but doubtful. Drive it like you stole it and have fun.

R

[mrtexas]

Originally Posted by Ed Pitts

Here is a post from Ronnie with a comment from me. This works and is a lot cheaper than 185 bucks. Ed

"Take your flathead starter apart. Keep the long through-bolts and end plate with the armature and bendix. Turn the armature if required. Don't under-cut the copper bars on armature. Use the starter from 332, 352, 360, 390 or 406 c.i. Ford FE engines as the conversion starter. Disassemble the FE starter. Keep the end plate with brushes and case with field coils. Check the bushing in the end plate and replace if necessary. The wire size and number of windings on the FE and flathead armatures and they are the same.

Now is also a good time to install new brushes. Install the flathead armature into the FE case. Install the FE end plate with brushes. Put long through-bolts in starter.

You now have a flathead starter capable of cranking an engine of 300 to 400 c.i. ,up to11 to 1 compression ratio. The finished starter looks like the flathead starter and you did it yourself."

This works. I have done this for two 12 volt starter conversions. On the last one I got a rebuilt starter from O'Rileys to use the case. It was for a 1964 Ford Galaxie; 390 cu in. engine. The part # is 03-0214 and the line is ULT. Cost was $39.99 plus 20 bucks for the core. So, for 60 bucks, you can have a 12 volt starter that works great.
Ed

Cool idea!
http://mrtexascitrus.weebly.com/flatheadstarter.html

[FordCustom]

It might have to wait until next week. Getting a commercial core put in my radiator. $275. 4 row though, fromwm a heavy duty Volvo forklift. Should be way more than enough!

[scooder]

I see from above that VanPelt swaps out the New bendix (rubber?) for the original type spring bendix. I take it there issues with the modern type? And with the also above mentioned FE hybrid starter, does the original sprung bendix put up with the extra oomph of this starter?
Thanks,
Martin.

[Ed Pitts]

Martin, the 12 volt starter removes the stress put on the bendix caused by using a 6 volt starter with 12 volts. I have also seen the ring gear displaced as well because of the bendix being slammed into the ring gear. A lot of folks have not had any problems using the 6 volt starter but it is sure a crap shoot in my opinion. No problems with the bendix in my 12 volt starters used both in my flat heads and my Model A. Ed

[FordCustom]

Okay, I assumed you guys meant the FE starter that resembles the flathead starter? Not the one with the "hump" on it? I ordered the one that resemble the flathead, with the long shaft on it? The price was unbeatable as an employee purchase. $27.50 plus $13.50 core.

Edit: After searching the part number, I was assured I ordered the right one. Thanks SO much guys!! You saved me $$$$! Much appreciated!

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...eyword=starter

[FordCustom]

Got to go pick up my radiator tomorrow, on a half hour lunch period. I had better make it there and back in time. I don't get paid for Friday unless I work a full day tomorrow and Monday. It certainly would take a lot of pressure off, if they'd agree to stay ten minutes later for me to pick it up. They are a customer of the auto parts store, and I have taken radiators there several times in the last 20-25 years.

[dude]

Originally Posted by scooder

I see from above that VanPelt swaps out the New bendix (rubber?) for the original type spring bendix. I take it there issues with the modern type? And with the also above mentioned FE hybrid starter, does the original sprung bendix put up with the extra oomph of this starter?
Thanks,
Martin.

I think there may be a problem with the Bendix bolt as well. Seen both fail

[Ed Pitts]

Here is a pic of the conversion with the FE starter case. Ed

[Mac VP]

We offer the USA made bending on the new starters for two reasons. One is that the modern barrel type starter drive doesn't fit we'll into the openings of the 49-53 type bell housing plates. Second reason is just my own concern that those barrel drives don't last as long. When we swap out the drives for the bendix type, we also put good quality bolts on the new drive.

[scooder]

Ah I think I get it, by using a proper 12v starter the bendix doesn't slam in as violently as a 6v starter with 12v shoved up it.
Is it possible to just use the 12v field windings in the flathead case? Assuming they are available separately?
Thanks again,
Martin.

[Mart]

Interesting post, guys. The picture showing the starter with the FE body shows a slim end plate (the end at the bellhousing). My flathead starters have a thick end plate in that position. Do I assume you would need a thin end plate flatty starter as a donor?

Mart.

[Ed Pitts]

Mart, yes, you need the thin end plate. If you have access to a lathe, the thick one can be turned down to the thin one. Not sure why Henry had two different sizes for the case and end plates. Ed

[RandyZ]

I also made a "Frankenstein" starter by combining a 1958 12V starter and my 1951. The big thing that I like is that the motor doesn't crank over at warp speed. It just sound normal.

[Tom in TN]

Originally Posted by scooder

I see from above that VanPelt swaps out the New bendix (rubber?) for the original type spring bendix. I take it there issues with the modern type?

My only 'issue' was the dang thing would not fit into my motor's hole - 1936 flathead.

Luckily, I had an old style Bendix lying around that was workable..

[FordCustom]

Can you use the bendix from the FE starter? Just wondering, since I have not even taken the starter off yet. The FE starter has one, when the image the store had in the system showed the bare shaft.

[flathead48]

Why not replace the field coils in the flathead starter with 12 volt ones?

[Ed Solari]

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When I saw this NEW starter a couple of years ago I called and it was made in India....do not remember the retailer...so not clear if this is a new source or just the India unit.
I decided to have OEM rebuilt by a guy in Colorado (now retired).

Ed S

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by flathead48

Why not replace the field coils in the flathead starter with 12 volt ones?

Way too difficult not an easy task for someone that hasn't done it before.
Try it and discover yourself.Your first obstacle will be removing the screws.

R

[Ed Pitts]

Why would you want to make something that is easy to do into a difficult project?
Take the bottom one out of the FE case and put the top one in. The second pic is the FE case with the top one installed. Ed

[Ed Pitts]

Here are the pics. Ed

[FordCustom]

Well, I got it back together with the new FE case. Should it turn freely? Mine feels like it is rubbing somewhere, and one of the brush holders looks VERY close to the armature? I see no shiny copper indicating that it is rubbing, however. The rebuilt FE starter had two fiber(reddish orange) washers on the end of the shaft when disassembled. My fear is that if I use these washers, then the plate will stick out on the back of the starter. Of course there may be a very slight misalignment since it's not all bolted up. What if it won't turn once it's tightened? Or worse, the brush holder rubs and it shorts out?

[FordCustom]

I put nuts on the ends of the bolts, and it was binding very badly. I pulled it back apart only to find one of the bolts had stripped in the nut, and the commutator was indeed rubbing the brush holder. How easy was this supposed to be again? It does spin free now with one of the reddish orange washers added, but I need one of the long bolts. Anybody got one they can spare?

[flathead48]

Ronnie, I have done it many times in my shop, replaced 6 volt with 12 and replaced 6 volt with high torque 6 volt. But then I am set up for this work, thanks.

[FordCustom]

I can't get it to turn freely no matter what I do. Sooo, I am out $45 more than I was, and I still have no starter. I'm done, unless someone has a miracle suggestion? The brush holders rub with no washer on the shaft, and the shaft is in a bind either way once it is tightened up. I'm just going to take my old one to a local shop and have it gone through for now. Though it's the same shop that was trying to alternator sales pitch while I was there. At this point I am wishing I had just ordered the starter at the beginning of the thread.

[FordCustom]

Originally Posted by Ed Pitts

Here is a pic of the conversion with the FE starter case. Ed

The FE starter I bought has that same front plate, and the shaft is binding pretty bad. I have a buddy coming over that has buku experience on starters and cars in general. Hopefully he can figure out the problem.

[FordCustom]

It was WAY more involved than I thought. There was a difference in how long the shafts were. We ended up using the new shaft, but drilling a new indention for the bendix bolt pin so it would have the correct location as the old one did. Sooo, the only thing we used from the old starter was the Bendix, and the rear plate. We hooked it up to 12v volts, and it jumped to life and the gear shot forward like it should. It was an hour or two of work, and not simple, but it works now, and is twelve volts. I also installed a set of points, a 12v coil and condenser, and bought a battery. Soon it will be running.

Once I get it going I may put a new Bendix on it, just to know it's been done.