Changing tires

[Oldnuts]

Is there a trick to changing the tires on a 19 T?

[29spcoupe]

If the tires are warm and soft, place the tube into the tire and inflate a few pounds. Place the valve through the hole and put both beads on at the same time.

[nhusa]

Yes there are lots of them. In my opinion the sun is your best friend.
It took me two hours to do the spare and 2 hours to do the other 4 once I learned to,let the sun soften the rubber.
This included painting the rim

[A bones]

I read where trash can liners make for good lubrication, I imagine two layers sliding against each other make for an easy neat job.

I'll try to share what I went through. Tools: 3 tire irons 2 C-clamps 1 mallet or big hammer. Getting started both, off, and on seems hardest. I asked for an extra pair of hands to help, my wife. Remove the valve stems and try to break the tire beads loose from the rims. ( I chose to work on the lawn to avoid scratches from the pavement )

Lube is key, most important. My choice ( NOT recommended ) was WD40. I've since read that better choices would be talcum, or RU-GLYDE ( seek at genuine auto parts supplier, along with a valve core tool - looks like a small thimble with a spike through it) The valve core tool will be much needed later.

After getting the beads to break loose, use the lube of choice to aid removal. The first iron needs to be held in place as the second is pulled over. Wise here to take a smaller bite, progress is progress. When using the third iron, be sure to keep the first in place. The second will come loose and may be removed.

At this point consider positioning a C-clamp to prevent the tire from jumping back into the rim. Clamp either rim or tire to prevent the tire returning home. By this time you understand the need of extra hands. Take your time, it gets easier.

When the first bead is off, extract the flap ( if present ) and the tube. The second bead will seem like a piece o cake.

Now time to get serious. Inspect the rim for rust, and the clinch edges for wear. Take care not to cut your fingers on rough edges. These conditions must be dealt with. Emory cloth, files, and small hammer work well to soften sharp edges and deal with rust. If not, new rubber will be damaged. Some owners choose to go with taping ( duct? ) the rim for protection. I went with flaps and restoration techniques.

Mounting the new tire reverse the order ( inner bead, tube, flap if present, outer bead )

I started with C-clamping the rim to prevent the bead from walking around the rim. ( smaller bites, lots of lube, mallet, if needed, to finish - all work here )

Now time to install tube. Use enough air to eliminate (as stated by '29spcoupe' above) wrinkles. Or to give it a shape. Critical here to index valve with hole in rim. ( and flap if present ). That valve tool I asked for earlier is used now to prevent the valve from disappearing inside the rim.

More lube, clamp, irons, mallet, and the outer bead is back in place ( somewhat ) Shake hands with your helper. Now time to wrestle the tire and tube to get the valve straight in the rim hole. Glad of that lube now. As supplying air pressure need to check clincher bead seating in the rim. If out of whack, deflate, wrestle, fill again. If an area is not cooperating, try a little air, then some thumping ( mallet ) on the tread area. This can help to seat the bead.

As always the recommended pressure is 55lbs. I like to over inflate let's say 70psi for seating, then drop back to 55. Hope this helps. Good Luck

[redmodelt]

Some find it easier to change the tire with the wheel on the car. That way you have it mounted on a more or less steady platform. While some go with 55 you are better off with 60-65. Just make sure you do not pinch the tube.

[A bones]

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Originally Posted by redmodelt

Some find it easier to change the tire with the wheel on the car. That way you have it mounted on a more or less steady platform. While some go with 55 you are better off with 60-65. Just make sure you do not pinch the tube.

Nope, I prefer tread on the road.

[Jack Innes]

A few points to add. It is wise to coat the inside of the tire with talc (baby powder - the talc kind) to allow the tube to move in use without chafing. The talc also is a good lubricant to aid in installation. The tube should have just enough air added to give it shape but no pressure. Use a chain type stem tool to keep the stem from pulling back into the tire during installation - it is much easier to keep the stem in place during installation than to locate it properly once everything is together. Once all together, inflate the tube fully then let ALL of the air back out, then re-inflate - this allows any wrinkles in the tube to flatten out . The rule of thumb on inflation has generally been 20 psi per inch of tire width for clinchers. ie. 3 1/2 X 20 = 70psi, 3 X 20 = 60psi etc. Too little pressure can cause rim cuts & the tire can come off at the bead.

Personally I find it easier to change the tire on the car - but most of the last 100 or so clinchers I have changed were on non demountable rims anyway. Often a nice warm, pliable tire can be installed on a clean, sound rim without irons at all.

[A bones]

Not here to argue. Just pointing out the fact. Sure enough switching a tire, on the car, can go easier. This does not allow for dealing with the problem of rust and sharp edges. To effectively remove sharp edges and rust, one should repair to a work bench or in my case the lawn. I've driven many long trips in the tri-state area, always keeping 55lbs.

Good to know that you have changed more than a hundred on non-demountables. I've done many, many times that ( on modern rims in my life ). I would never send a customer out with rust or damaged rims. Rim cuts on clinchers are from neglect ( including underinflation not 55lbs ). I have addressed this its up to the owner to deal with it.

[bnchief]

I have a t's for 40 years my car is a 19 i went to put on new tires had a heck of a time. An old ford mechanic told me how to do it if tires are new he told me to stretch them for a couple hours using a cherry picker just stick a pipe thru them under the botton of the cherry picker put another piece of pipe at the top of the tire jack the picker up until tires are stretched like a rubber band do not get carried away. After a couple hours jack car up lets just say front. This is a clincher rim take tire no tube and start tire on at bottom of rim let weight of car down on tire finish putting tire on with tire on work it a little to get clincher seated also a little tire lube will help altho i did not use any, Now air up tube to get out all wrinkle let air back out put tube in starting with the valve stem put tube all the way in then start to roll tire on where valve stem is after you get it started good rotate tire with valve stem to the bottom put weight of car on it and finish rolling the tire over the rest of the wheel. Then jack it back up work tire back and forth making sure clincher part of tire is seated and even all the way around. 60-65 pounds is best i have found easiest way i found to do do this and no more pinched tubes.

[15max]

It gets easier each time you do it. Those who pinch tubes get more practice.:0)

[serf2]

I mount my A and T tires with the rim mounted to the spare tire mount. The warmer and softer the tire the better.

[C26Pinelake]

i use the trash liners dusted with baby or talcum powder. Wayne