Clutch fork pin

[Talkwrench]

Any reason why you could not just use a plain nut and bolt ,or drill for a split pin instead of the pin ?

[KiWinUS]

Use a good quality bolt. No to split pin too soft. Make sure you use a bolt that the shoulder goes through shaft & fork then cut threaded part to give just enough for lock nut.

[flatheadmurre]

I use a long bolt and cut down the threads so you get an unthreaded part as "pin" and just threads enough sticking out for the nyloc nut.
An M8 bolt fits very nicely...i know no metrics on a hotrod...lol

[19Fordy]

I threaded both the fork and the shaft and then used a socket head cap screw and nut with Loctite. That was 20 years ago. Still holding.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

I threaded both the fork and the shaft and then used a socket head cap screw and nut with Loctite. That was 20 years ago. Still holding.

Interesting idea.

[19Fordy]

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Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Interesting idea.

The reason I used threads was because I wasn't sure I would be able to swedge the pin tight enough as I wanted to eliminate all potential wear and "play". I don't recall if I used fine or coarse threads. I also peened the nut in place.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

The reason I used threads was because I wasn't sure I would be able to swedge the pin tight enough as I wanted to eliminate all potential wear and "play". I don't recall if I used fine or coarse threads. I also peened the nut in place.

Thanks. I have a replacement pin from Mac VP that you need to peen over like the original. I like the threaded bolt idea as well.

[DavidG]

Or do what Ford did on the '32s and Model As, use a tapered pin with striations.

[19Fordy]

Tim: If you decide to use a pin make sure it is swedged enough so that its diameter fully expands to tightly fill the small space surrounding it. You don't want a sliding fit. You want that pin to be very tight with 0 chance of moving due to vibration or movement of clutch shaft. For that reason I wouldn't even consider a split pin. I'm sure Henry Ford went for the most economical method available at the time that would work. Hence, using a threaded fastener would be too costly. Plus, the "pin" method had been working well for many years. Why increase manufacturing costs?

Is the OEM case hardened? Or, is it soft ductile steel. I didn't check it with a file.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Tim: If you decide to use a pin make sure it is swedged enough so that its diameter fully expands to tightly fill the small space surrounding it. You don't want a sliding fit. You want that pin to be very tight with 0 chance of moving due to vibration or movement of clutch shaft. For that reason I wouldn't even consider a split pin. I'm sure Henry Ford went for the most economical method available at the time that would work. Hence, using a threaded fastener would be too costly. Plus, the "pin" method had been working well for many years. Why increase manufacturing costs?

Is the OEM case hardened? Or, is it soft ductile steel. I didn't check it with a file.

I don't know if it's hardened or not. I'll check

[19Fordy]

"I don't know if it's hardened or not. I'll check".

As I recall I was able to drill through pin's center with an 1/8 inch drill

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

"I don't know if it's hardened or not. I'll check".

As I recall I was able to drill through pin's center with an 1/8 inch drill

Haha. Yes, true. That's how I removed mine, so it must not be hardened.

[19Fordy]

Tim:
That makes sense as it would be difficult to swedge a case hardened pin after installation.
A non hardened steel pin would work better and cheaper.

I even thought about covering the bolt threads with a light coating of solder and then screwing the bolt thru the fork and shaft threads assuming that the extra solder would sheared off providing a very tight fit with 0 play. I did use that technique when I replaced one of the pins that secure the drive shaft coupler to the rear banjo spline. I found that the pins sold on line were actually too small in dia. than the hole and didn't have the tools to really sedge it tight before peening over the pin. The red gizmo is a seal that prevents rear banjo gear oil from draining into torque tube.

Anyhow, I trust that whatever you do will be successful. Jim

[Krylon32]

I have sold all my T5 conversion kits with whats called a double spiral roll pin. It's been working to date in both the fork and lever. I assume this pin is much stronger than the standard double split roll pin? It is a press sort of fit.

[19Fordy]

Thanks Gary, I didn't know such a pin existed. Learned something new. Is this it?
https://www.driv-lok.com/product/slo...d-spring-pins/

[flatheadmurre]

If you want to beef up a roll pin connection you drive one smaller pin into the first one installed rotating the split 180...just a quick way of improving strenght.

[Mart]

For what it's worth, the French Military gearboxes, which use the Early Ford fork etc, use a nicely fitting bolt with a self locking nut. It's not a particularly highly stressed part, no need to overthink the job.

[19Fordy]

Thanks Mart.