Can't Stay Started

[HHI Model A]

Hey everyone, I am really confused right now. Alright, I drove my 1929 Model A Coupe to the beach today, it ran like a champ. OK, fast forward 90 minutes. I started the car, but it only ran for a minute as it sputtered and died. I kept trying to start it but got the same results. Finally I got it running, but the car backfired about 6 times as I was driving away. It then died again while I was driving. Eventually I was able to get her home. I believe the ignition system must be weak, but I may be wrong. Any helpful tips on what went wrong?

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Most likely starving for gas. See if it runs well with the gas cap OFF. Bill W.

[Mike V. Florida]

How is the fuel flow?

[dumb person]

Did someone swap your fuel and radiator caps as a joke? If not check if the coil wires are tight. Mine fell of today because the coil studs pulled out of the plastic (2 month old bosch coil, go figure)

[heneste]

When mine backfires it's usually because dirt is getting through the gas line or carb and causing a too lean condition. Then it's a just a matter of cleaning out the carb or the gas line and sediment bowl.

How long are you able to drive the car before it dies? I had a condenser go bad before and the car would keep starting but die right away within about half a minute.

[green30coupe]

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My first guess would have been (like Bill) an unvented gas cap. But...
Be sure your GAV is open. Otherwise you can have a lean fuel mixture.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Humble Opinion:


1. Just hearing how you described what happened above , I agree with the above (5) responses in that the very FIRST thing to check is fuel starvation.


2. It is not difficult to imagine that your gas tank is over 80 years old & has been collecting unfiltered gas for at least 70 years; hence, with gravity, gas tank crud flows out of the bottom of the tank with the fuel & partially plugs the small orifices in the carbuertor -- very common occurence with "ALL" vintage vehicles.


3. I prefer to remove the crud; some prefer to add a screen filter in the tank or other devices, & different filters; some do nothing, clean the carburetor & get towed home on the next outing.


4. Does it make sense that because of gravity, 98% of the crud is on the bottom of the tank waiting to flow out with the fuel?


5. I unscrew the gas line at the shut off valve, attach a rubber hose to it with a white cotton sock on the lower end thus dumping gas in a 12 quart bucket container & re-fill the tank with about 2-1/2 gallons of fuel passing through the tank multiple times -- amazing what one finds in the white sock at the end of the day.


6. Be patient & think -- forgotten words today -- no quick permanent fix -- start in the morning, go about your business cutting grass, painting, whatever, etc., & every now & then refill the tank when empty -- not at all time consuming this way -- change socks as necessary to "see" how you are doing with crud removal -- rock the vehicle a little back & forth sideways with every re-fill.


7. Unless unique gas tank problems are at hand, at the end of the day, with a clean gas tank & a "clean sock", one should be able to drive from California to New York & back with today's "filtered" gasoline.


8. Add 4 ounces of MMO with every re-fill to control future gas tank rust.

9. Sometimes, with a flashlight shining in the bottom of an "empty" Model A gas tank, one can see quite a bit of flakes & sand in the bottom of the gas tank. Lots of this material can be quickly removed after each time one drains the tank by using an outdoor cooking barbecue cotton mop dipped in lubricating oil & wrung out. (One may have to securely attach an extension to the barbecue mop's wood handle if it is not long enough.) The crud easily sticks to the fibers of the oiled mop -- clean the mop with paint thinner or a solvent, re-oil, wring it out & use it again until no crud can be seen with a flash light & get back periodically to your honey-do list with a smile).


Hope this helps -- if you ever do it right & you do it once!

[FlatheadTed]

One like this ?

Originally Posted by dumb person

Did someone swap your fuel and radiator caps as a joke? If not check if the coil wires are tight. Mine fell of today because the coil studs pulled out of the plastic (2 month old bosch coil, go figure)

[Mitch//pa]

ck spark intensity
ck fuel flow

[car crazy]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Humble Opinion:


1. Just hearing how you described what happened above , I agree with the above (5) responses in that the very FIRST thing to check is fuel starvation.


2. It is not difficult to imagine that your gas tank is over 80 years old & has been collecting unfiltered gas for at least 70 years; hence, with gravity, gas tank crud flows out of the bottom of the tank with the fuel & partially plugs the small orifices in the carbuertor -- very common occurence with "ALL" vintage vehicles.


3. I prefer to remove the crud; some prefer to add a screen filter in the tank or other devices, & different filters; some do nothing, clean the carburetor & get towed home on the next outing.


4. Does it make sense that because of gravity, 98% of the crud is on the bottom of the tank waiting to flow out with the fuel?


5. I unscrew the gas line at the shut off valve, attach a rubber hose to it with a white cotton sock on the lower end thus dumping gas in a 12 quart bucket container & re-fill the tank with about 2-1/2 gallons of fuel passing through the tank multiple times -- amazing what one finds in the white sock at the end of the day.


6. Be patient & think -- forgotten words today -- no quick permanent fix -- start in the morning, go about your business cutting grass, painting, whatever, etc., & every now & then refill the tank when empty -- not at all time consuming this way -- change socks as necessary to "see" how you are doing with crud removal -- rock the vehicle a little back & forth sideways with every re-fill.


7. Unless unique gas tank problems are at hand, at the end of the day, with a clean gas tank & a "clean sock", one should be able to drive from California to New York & back with today's "filtered" gasoline.


8. Add 4 ounces of MMO with every re-fill to control future gas tank rust.

9. Sometimes, with a flashlight shining in the bottom of an "empty" Model A gas tank, one can see quite a bit of flakes & sand in the bottom of the gas tank. Lots of this material can be quickly removed after each time one drains the tank by using an outdoor cooking barbecue cotton mop dipped in lubricating oil & wrung out. (One may have to securely attach an extension to the barbecue mop's wood handle if it is not long enough.) The crud easily sticks to the fibers of the oiled mop -- clean the mop with paint thinner or a solvent, re-oil, wring it out & use it again until no crud can be seen with a flash light & get back periodically to your honey-do list with a smile).


Hope this helps -- if you ever do it right & you do it once!

Mr.Chauvin-thanks for a pretty simple explanation,and fairly simple method for cleaning the gas tank in a Model A...I just purchased a '28 RHD Australian Phaeton from a friend-it has been sitting for approx 8 years,will be working on getting her running this weekend.Certainly enjoying this forum!!!