Original-Style Points and Cam Screw Sold by Snyder's.

[johndduvall]

I recently ordered a new set of points (A-12199) from Snyder's. After installation, it was obvious that the arm was too long and did not center on the point block screw contact (see photo). Snyder's said this was a known problem but the vendor refuses to correct it. To correct this, you must order a new, modified point block (A-12160-X)

Also had a problem with a new Cam Screw and Washer (A-12211/13). The inside diameter of my cam is .554" and the diameter of the washer was .564". I had to use a Dremel to grind it down. The lock washer is made of thick, heavy steel and takes quite a bit of torque to compress. This makes it more difficult to adjust the timing. If you remove the washer or use a thinner one, you can't use the screw because it's not threaded completely to the head like the old, original screw (see photo). Does anyone know a supplier that has completely threaded screws?

Thanks!

John D.

[ndnchf]

Could you run a die down the screw to bring the threads closer to the head?

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

Could you run a die down the screw to bring the threads closer to the head?

The cam screw is a weird size and pitch that he probably doesn’t have a die for.

[Y-Blockhead]

If you can not find the proper screw, I'm wondering if you could counterbore the shaft a little to get the screw to tighten with the thinner lock washer.

[J Franklin]

This is why swap meets are an important part of the hobby. I always look for spares to cannibalize for proper parts.

[GPierce]

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Does anyone sell original style points with the correct dimension center to center?

[Ruth]

This got me to thinking, and I am just wondering out loud, does the longer arm change the geometry and correlation to the distributor cam? Seems to me with the longer arm the points would open wider at a given point on the cam. Then the points would be adjusted to the proper gap, the rubbing block would hit in a different spot and the points would open sooner? Would this change the dwell of the cam? Like I said, just wondering out loud.

[rotorwrench]

I'm still using points that were restoration parts back in the 70s & 80s when they were still made to specs. Somewhere along the way, (likely in the 90s) this type of stuff began being farmed out to offshore companies that were willing to make them for little or nothing but that has a trickle down effect over time. The domestic companies quit manufacturing the parts and the accuracy of design sometimes suffers due to that.

It's evidently very difficult to find a company anywhere that will make low production parts for the restoration market. I guess it was easier to either modify the old stationary point block or manufacture a new one to work with the out of spec parts. They needed to elongate the existing screw holes or make a new one with different specs. This shows the cause and effect of the current state of the restoration parts market.

[johndduvall]

I believe the pan head, slotted machine screw is a 5/16-28 x 1/4". It's been my experience that machine screws are completely threaded. Going to ACE hardware later and see if I can find one. Thanks everyone for your replies.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by johndduvall

I believe the pan head, slotted machine screw is a 5/16-28 x 1/4".

It is not. The size is .325-30tpi, length 25/64". If you get a 5/16-28x1/4" screw, it will not thread into the cam.

Also technically it's a fillister head bolt and the official spec driver is a #3 coin-slot driver, not flathead.

[johndduvall]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

It is not. The size is .325-30tpi, length 25/64". If you get a 5/16-28x1/4" screw, it will not thread into the cam.

Also technically it's a fillister head bolt and the official spec driver is a #3 coin-slot driver, not flathead.

Thanks for saving me a trip to ACE. Snyder's screw measured at .323" and I wrongly assumed that is was close enough to .310 (5/16th) although .015" difference is a lot. My thread gauge didn't have 30 TPI and it seem liked 28 TPI was close. Guess it was just wishful thinking that it was a 5/16-28. Any idea why Ford would use such an oddball size other than being proprietary?

[ndnchf]

What if you used a thinner 5/16" lock washer with a reduced diameter flat washer above it to make up for the unthreaded portion?

[johndduvall]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

What if you used a thinner 5/16" lock washer with a reduced diameter flat washer above it to make up for the unthreaded portion?

I thought about that. Maybe use a little JB Weld between the flat washer and head and use a thinner lock washer?

Currently, I'm using the old screw by itself. It seems to secure the cam okay. Does anyone else use just the screw? I'm going to request that Snyder's have their vendor completely thread the screw.

Thanks,

John D.

[rotorwrench]

The last one I purchased was the screw that is drilled for an oiler hole that comes as a kit with the drilled distributor shaft. That set up fit OK. It comes with a lock washer for the screw.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6342&cat=41666

[johndduvall]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

The last one I purchased was the screw that is drilled for an oiler hole that comes as a kit with the drilled distributor shaft. That set up fit OK. It comes with a lock washer for the screw.
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...6342&cat=41666

Was it threaded to the head with no gap? The price seems reasonable.

Thanks!!

John D.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Aren’t the echlin points from Napa correct?

[johndduvall]

Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac

Aren’t the echlin points from Napa correct?

Just ordered a set and will let everyone know if they are correct.

Thanks for the info!

John D.

[rotorwrench]

Originally Posted by johndduvall

Was it threaded to the head with no gap? The price seems reasonable.

Thanks!!

John D.

I'll have to take it out and look. It's in the car right now and functioning well. The lockwasher should be thick enough to keep the thread from bottoming out.

[bobbader]

Seems to me the first thing to do would be to call Snyders about the cam screw. They are more than willing to hear if a problem exists, especially with such a simple part that every single Model A needs. Original post suggests that you did call them about the points misalignment. Why not question them about the cam screw as well? We can be a receptive audience and purveyors of counsel, but the supplier is the ultimate source of being able to advise about an item they sold you.

[johndduvall]

Originally Posted by bobbader

Seems to me the first thing to do would be to call Snyders about the cam screw. They are more than willing to hear if a problem exists, especially with such a simple part that every single Model A needs. Original post suggests that you did call them about the points misalignment. Why not question them about the cam screw as well? We can be a receptive audience and purveyors of counsel, but the supplier is the ultimate source of being able to advise about an item they sold you.

I did mention the screw to Kevin. He said it would be checked along with adding the disclaimer to the points description.

John D.