Distributor outer cap gaskets on dome distributors

[Lawson Cox]

What am I missing here? Does anyone make or sell a CORRECT gasket for the outer caps on dome style distributors? I'm asking about 39 distributor specifically.

I cannot get one to even come close to fitting without cutting it and spreading it out, thus increasing the circumference of the gasket. Also, I have to cut out a notch on the inner circumference of the gasket to accommodate the little tab that aligns the cap and the notch in the distributor body. This CAN'T be right.

I have tried several different vendors and they all sell the same thing. It's blowing my weak mind.

[Brian]

No need to cut /trim anything. The gasket fits on the spigot on the outside edge of the inner cap, the outer cap goes on the other side of the gasket; the protrusion in middle of outer cap fits through the hole in centre of inner cap and a rubber o ring is inserted onto the groove on that protrusion, which holds the whole assembly together.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

What am I missing here?

I have tried several different vendors and they all sell the same thing. It's blowing my weak mind.

Lawson... CALL & TALK to Michael at 3rd Gen and describe what you have to him. He'll make you whole!

Coop
__________________________________________________ ___

3rd Gen Automotive - Contact

Michael Driskell (Ask for Michael on phone)

Third Gen Automotive
Phone: 844-327-5988
Url: thirdgenauto.com
2600 Old Nashville Hwy
McMinnville, TN 37110

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by Brian

No need to cut /trim anything. The gasket fits on the spigot on the outside edge of the inner cap, the outer cap goes on the other side of the gasket; the protrusion in middle of outer cap fits through the hole in centre of inner cap and a rubber o ring is inserted onto the groove on that protrusion, which holds the whole assembly together.

I think I follow you, HOWEVER, that leaves a gap between the body and the outer cap for water etc to enter, and it LOOKS VERY WEIRD to boot. I can't imagine Henry's engineers designing something that way.

Can you elucidate ?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

Can you elucidate ?

Counselor.... That was part of the intention of my original post. IF YOU'LL MAKE THE EFFORT TO CALL & SPEAK TO MICHAEL AT 3RD GEN, I'm sure that he is well-qualified for, and will be more than willing to ELUCIDATE you on your distributor gasket shortcomings.

Coop

.

[Lawson Cox]

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Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

Counselor.... That was part of the intention of my original post. IF YOU'LL MAKE THE EFFORT TO CALL & SPEAK TO MICHAEL AT 3RD GEN, I'm sure that he is well-qualified for, and will be more than willing to ELUCIDATE you on your distributor gasket shortcomings.

Coop

.

Coop: I have made several attempts to do just that, how-some-ever, Michael is a hard man to reach. I'll keep trying. I rest my case.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Brian

No need to cut /trim anything. The gasket fits on the spigot on the outside edge of the inner cap, the outer cap goes on the other side of the gasket; the protrusion in middle of outer cap fits through the hole in centre of inner cap and a rubber o ring is inserted onto the groove on that protrusion, which holds the whole assembly together.

Exactly Brian, you nailed it. I've never had to trim any of those end cap gaskets that are included in any distributor gasket sets, or included in complete engine gasket sets from Best Gasket Co. or other well known gasket companies.

[Lawson Cox]

Finally, after reading these fine responses,, I have concluded, THERE MUST NOT BE ANY GASKET MATERIAL BETWEEN THE EDGE OF THE OUTER CAP AND THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY ITSELF. That seems very strange to me. Now I understand why these old Fords died so many times when you went through a puddle. LOL

[Brian]

Yes there is a gasket there...the very gasket in question. In my opinion, these early distributors are the most waterproof of the Ford distributors. The gasket you have been asking about sandwiches between the inner and outer caps and extends out to the outer perimeter of the outer cap. Then, when the cap assembly is positioned into the side of the distributor, that gasket seals against the dissy housing. So, in a nutshell, the gasket seals the inner and outer caps, also the outer cap to distributor

[koates]

Brian, a very good correct answer. One gasket does two jobs. Never a problem with waterproofing these distributors if the correct gaskets are used and assembled as per original factory design. A beautifully designed distributor, the best of the V8 era in my opinion. Regards, Kevin.

[DavidG]

But placed in an unfortunate location for servicing.

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by Brian

Yes there is a gasket there...the very gasket in question. In my opinion, these early distributors are the most waterproof of the Ford distributors. The gasket you have been asking about sandwiches between the inner and outer caps and extends out to the outer perimeter of the outer cap. Then, when the cap assembly is positioned into the side of the distributor, that gasket seals against the dissy housing. So, in a nutshell, the gasket seals the inner and outer caps, also the outer cap to distributor

I never was all that smart, and in my old age I seem to have lost what brain I had. Is there any possibility that someone could post a picture, or tell me where to find a picture?

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by DavidG

But placed in an unfortunate location for servicing.

I'll drink to that Dave. Fortunately, on this job, I have no trouble getting to it; my problem seems to be properly putting a gasket on it. LOL

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

I never was all that smart, and in my old age I seem to have lost what brain I had. Is there any possibility that someone could post a picture, or tell me where to find a picture?

These?

[Lawson Cox]

Thanks Peter. I KNOW what the gaskets look like. What I need to see is one of the two top ones in the picture, properly installed. Keep in mind I've never seen how the go onto or into the end caps. That's what's throwing me.

[38 coupe]

Assembly of the inner caps, outer caps, plug wires, gaskets, and o-rings is definitely tedious.

First make sure the inner cap fits the distributor housing. Seems like half the distributors have been dropped at some point and the side openings are no longer quite round. Sand the housing opening and inner cap where interference is found until the inner cap slides in easily.
Once the inner cap fits into the housing put the distributor together enough to have the shaft and rotor in place. Spin the shaft and find all the tangs on the rotor and cap that hit. Disassemble and file the brass tang(s) down that are hitting. Reassemble and repeat until no contact. Take the inner cap back off.

Repeat the above for the other side.

Assemble the rest of the distributor (if it was taken apart).

Next fit the spark plug wires to the tubes.
Add the rubber boot over the spark plug wires.
Add the outer cap over spark plug wires and shoved into the boot.
Add the gasket in question over the spark plug wires.
Plug each spark plug wire into the inner cap (this is annoying) without damaging that gasket.
Carefully squeeze the outer and inner cap together without snagging that gasket. The gasket will extend out passed the edge of the inner cap.
Put the o-ring onto the extended point of the outer cap that is sticking through the inner cap. The o-ring basically holds the whole mess together.
Put the whole mess onto the side of the distributor.

Image from Van Pelt's website of resources (http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...electrical.htm)

[Brian]

Lawson, like you I have trouble posting photos on here. I'll try and explain once again....
Get your inner cap.
Place it on the table with the prongs facing down [you'll have four holes looking at you]. Grab one of those gaskets as illustrated in the above picture, and manoeuvre it around until you find a place where it will just fall into place over a spigot provided in that inner cap.
That's where it sits. Leave it there!
Now, get the outer cap, and position it so it fits over the inner cap/gasket and the protrusion in that inner cap fits through the hole that's in the inner cap.
wriggle it around until the tang drops into the slot.
The outer cap will now be snug up against the gasket and the inner cap.
Now pick that entire assembly up in your hand off of the table.
twist your wrist, turning that whole assembly 180 degrees so the prongs side of the inner terminal is facing you.
You will see the prong of the outer cap is sitting through the hole in the inner cap, exposing a groove.
Fit an o ring into that groove.
The whole assembly is now done.
Oh wait!!! you forgot the HT leads

38 beat me to this post. I know you don't need to fit the leads; this is for the 60 display engine right?

[Brian]

sorry man, I know it sounds like I'm taking the mickey of you, no way...I'm trying to 'elucidate' you. The hardest part of this exercise is trying to assemble it all whilst configuring 4 HT leads to fit within that assembly. Fitting the inner and outer caps together with a gasket inbetween them both is dead easy.

[Lawson Cox]

Oh, everything is fitted together wiring wise. I am just envisioning the fully assembled distributor with a gasket between the outer caps and the body of the distributor, that is clearly visible from the outside. Apparently that ain't gonna happen. LOL. (I apologize for being so anal over this bit of V8 minutia.)

[DavidG]

Depending on the color of the gaskets, the outer edges are visible from the outside. Do you honestly think anyone in Auburn gives a damn?

[Lawson Cox]

OKAY, I have sat down with all parts in hand, scratched my head, and other areas, and see how everything is supposed to fit together and work.

I have talked with Michael and he says he usually just puts everything together without the gasket. With all the problems I have had on this, I can understand why.

Anyhow, my problem has apparently been, primarily, that the inner circumference of the gasket, or at least the ones I have gotten, is a little too small to fit on the inner cap, without stretching the gasket to the tearing point. The gasket also does not match up with the outer surface of the caps.

There is also an alignment tab on the gasket side of the inner cap, which prevents the gasket from laying flat on the surface of the inner cap as it should. If I cut the gasket, and separate the ends to where they just barely clear that little alignment tab, the gasket will lay flat and will also extend out to where it aligns with the outer edge of the cap, perfectly.

Maybe I have a bastard aftermarket inner cap, or a cap for the earlier distributor or something, I dunno. I have ordered a new gasket set and, if it don't fit, I'll do whatever modifications that are necessary to make it look right, at least.

With this being only a display engine, it only needs to appear correct. Between the problem with this gasket and a correct fan, (which is a whole different story) this project has really been a headache. Other than this, I have really enjoyed this project and I am glad to be very close to its conclusion.

Thanks for all the help, Guys and Gals

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Depending on the color of the gaskets, the outer edges are visible from the outside. Do you honestly think anyone in Auburn gives a damn?

To be perfectly honest, which I try to be, always, I seriously doubt they do. But like you, I'm sure, I want it to be 100% in every possible way.

[DavidG]

Okay, but something is wrong in what you describe regarding your inner caps. The alignment slot in the inner cap for the tab in the outer cap does not interfere with the gasket as the gasket fits around the raised area of the inner cap. The alignment slot in the inner cap is inboard from where the gasket seats on the inner cap.


The gaskets are prone to shrinkage with age and older ones are a bit of a struggle to attach around the perimeter of the raised circle on the outside of the inner caps. You may indeed have to trim away some of that shrunk gasket material in order to install the gaskets on the inner caps.

[Brian]

If, indeed the gasket[s] have shrunk with age, simply soak 'em in warm water; they'll grow back to original size. I thought you stated that you've tried fitting various different brands of these gaskets, always with the same result?

[Cecil/WV]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Depending on the color of the gaskets, the outer edges are visible from the outside. Do you honestly think anyone in Auburn gives a damn?

People in Auburn care about as much as concourse judges care about correctness on '32 Fords!

[Lawson Cox]

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Yes, and I have tried soaking them, without any improvement, I think they are just manufactured to the wrong specs. I would hazard a guess that really only one outfit makes them all. I'll see when the "new" ones arrive. If they don't fit I'll return them and have some cut. That will be almost as cheap as what they charge for gaskets. I'll just have to drive about 50 miles round trip.

[dad35]

I do David. We are actually trying to correct displays which are not correct. May take a while but they are working on it.

[35fordtn]

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[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

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[jimTN]

Not correct but mason jar rubber gaskets work fine.

[Kens 36]

Given the recent pictures at the museum, those gaskets are essential

[Zeke3]

Thank you for the pictures Michael. Note that there are no notches on the gasket surface on the outside of the terminal plate.

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

Thank you for the pictures Michael. Note that there are no notches on the gasket surface on the outside of the terminal plate.

Becuase of where they sit no notches are needed

[Robert/Texas]

Post #21 mentions putting everything together without the gaskets. I'm not sure that I would agree with this. When the distributor quit on my '37 Ford I found that thin paper gaskets were used between the caps. I noticed that the wire bales were not real tight. Both inner and outer caps showed slippage and the nibs were damaged. With new caps and cork gaskets the bales go on tight. I believe that the previous owner assembled the distributor this way. I put about 3200 miles on the car until this happened. Perhaps the gaskets could be eliminated if the bales were bent some way.

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Robert/Texas

Post #21 mentions putting everything together without the gaskets. I'm not sure that I would agree with this. When the distributor quit on my '37 Ford I found that thin paper gaskets were used between the caps. I noticed that the wire bales were not real tight. Both inner and outer caps showed slippage and the nibs were damaged. With new caps and cork gaskets the bales go on tight. I believe that the previous owner assembled the distributor this way. I put about 3200 miles on the car until this happened. Perhaps the gaskets could be eliminated if the bales were bent some way.

I bend my bails so they fit tight. I do not drive my cars in the rain ans simply dont run the gaskets. Just a personal preference. Nothing wrong with running them

[Karl]

Originally Posted by DavidG

But placed in an unfortunate location for servicing.

Say that again -I'd like a dollar for every radiator scrape my knuckles have taken ! Took me a while to figure out that the whole job is a lot easier if the generator and fan is removed first ( a job that only takes a minute or two )

[Lawson Cox]

I have smoked over my parts carefully, and the pictures which have been posted. Thanks a bunch for the pictures by the way. As soon as my new gaskets arrive from Michael I will remove the passenger side wire looms and check out everything carefully to find out just what my problem is and, following the photos hopefully I can make things all better. I will update you as I go along. Hopefully with success. Lawson

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Karl

Say that again -I'd like a dollar for every radiator scrape my knuckles have taken ! Took me a while to figure out that the whole job is a lot easier if the generator and fan is removed first ( a job that only takes a minute or two )

I have replaced these distributors with a car up in the air on a 2 post lift and the lower radiator splash shield removed. Either way a simple job takes a little longer. Although the look of the helmet distributor is worth it.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

I have replaced these distributors with a car up in the air on a 2 post lift and the lower radiator splash shield removed. Either way a simple job takes a little longer. Although the look of the helmet distributor is worth it.

This is the way to do it. No messing with fan belt tightness, no backaches, no knuckle scrapes. Run the front wheels up on a curb if you don't have ramps.
Use a long headless bolt to assist in alignment till you have the other two bolts in place.

[Lawson Cox]

Hey Seth and Alan. At my age I'm just grateful that this engine is mounted on a stand and I have unfettered access to the distributor. LOL

[Lawson Cox]

"Praise God from whom all blessings flow". I have the gasket installed correctly on one side of the distributor. I had to pull the wiring loom to get to it. On the little 60HP, that is a tough job with crooked fingers. I'll get the other side done, whenever. I'll try to get some pictures posted soon. (With somebody's help. LOL.)

[JM 35 Sedan]

Lawson, there are many of us here more than willing to help you post pictures. Just let us know when you are ready

[Robert/Texas]

Lawson, Here is what we did two years ago on my '34 Ford distributor. We couldn't get it all together with the wire looms attached so we pulled the wires out of them. The way we got the wires back into the looms was to attach baling wire to the sparkplug ends of each wire and flood the insides of the looms and all of the wires with silicone lubricant. Then we pulled the wires trough the looms, shortest ones first. I hope that this helps you.

Robert

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by Robert/Texas

Lawson, Here is what we did two years ago on my '34 Ford distributor. We couldn't get it all together with the wire looms attached so we pulled the wires out of them. The way we got the wires back into the looms was to attach baling wire to the sparkplug ends of each wire and flood the insides of the looms and all of the wires with silicone lubricant. Then we pulled the wires trough the looms, shortest ones first. I hope that this helps you.

Robert

Thanks Robert, but that part is already done.