Distributor outer cap gaskets on dome distributors

[Lawson Cox]

OKAY, I have sat down with all parts in hand, scratched my head, and other areas, and see how everything is supposed to fit together and work.

I have talked with Michael and he says he usually just puts everything together without the gasket. With all the problems I have had on this, I can understand why.

Anyhow, my problem has apparently been, primarily, that the inner circumference of the gasket, or at least the ones I have gotten, is a little too small to fit on the inner cap, without stretching the gasket to the tearing point. The gasket also does not match up with the outer surface of the caps.

There is also an alignment tab on the gasket side of the inner cap, which prevents the gasket from laying flat on the surface of the inner cap as it should. If I cut the gasket, and separate the ends to where they just barely clear that little alignment tab, the gasket will lay flat and will also extend out to where it aligns with the outer edge of the cap, perfectly.

Maybe I have a bastard aftermarket inner cap, or a cap for the earlier distributor or something, I dunno. I have ordered a new gasket set and, if it don't fit, I'll do whatever modifications that are necessary to make it look right, at least.

With this being only a display engine, it only needs to appear correct. Between the problem with this gasket and a correct fan, (which is a whole different story) this project has really been a headache. Other than this, I have really enjoyed this project and I am glad to be very close to its conclusion.

Thanks for all the help, Guys and Gals

[Lawson Cox]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Depending on the color of the gaskets, the outer edges are visible from the outside. Do you honestly think anyone in Auburn gives a damn?

To be perfectly honest, which I try to be, always, I seriously doubt they do. But like you, I'm sure, I want it to be 100% in every possible way.

[DavidG]

Okay, but something is wrong in what you describe regarding your inner caps. The alignment slot in the inner cap for the tab in the outer cap does not interfere with the gasket as the gasket fits around the raised area of the inner cap. The alignment slot in the inner cap is inboard from where the gasket seats on the inner cap.


The gaskets are prone to shrinkage with age and older ones are a bit of a struggle to attach around the perimeter of the raised circle on the outside of the inner caps. You may indeed have to trim away some of that shrunk gasket material in order to install the gaskets on the inner caps.

[Brian]

If, indeed the gasket[s] have shrunk with age, simply soak 'em in warm water; they'll grow back to original size. I thought you stated that you've tried fitting various different brands of these gaskets, always with the same result?

[Cecil/WV]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Depending on the color of the gaskets, the outer edges are visible from the outside. Do you honestly think anyone in Auburn gives a damn?

People in Auburn care about as much as concourse judges care about correctness on '32 Fords!

[Lawson Cox]

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Yes, and I have tried soaking them, without any improvement, I think they are just manufactured to the wrong specs. I would hazard a guess that really only one outfit makes them all. I'll see when the "new" ones arrive. If they don't fit I'll return them and have some cut. That will be almost as cheap as what they charge for gaskets. I'll just have to drive about 50 miles round trip.

[dad35]

I do David. We are actually trying to correct displays which are not correct. May take a while but they are working on it.

[35fordtn]

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[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 35fordtn

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[jimTN]

Not correct but mason jar rubber gaskets work fine.

[Kens 36]

Given the recent pictures at the museum, those gaskets are essential

[Zeke3]

Thank you for the pictures Michael. Note that there are no notches on the gasket surface on the outside of the terminal plate.

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

Thank you for the pictures Michael. Note that there are no notches on the gasket surface on the outside of the terminal plate.

Becuase of where they sit no notches are needed

[Robert/Texas]

Post #21 mentions putting everything together without the gaskets. I'm not sure that I would agree with this. When the distributor quit on my '37 Ford I found that thin paper gaskets were used between the caps. I noticed that the wire bales were not real tight. Both inner and outer caps showed slippage and the nibs were damaged. With new caps and cork gaskets the bales go on tight. I believe that the previous owner assembled the distributor this way. I put about 3200 miles on the car until this happened. Perhaps the gaskets could be eliminated if the bales were bent some way.

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Robert/Texas

Post #21 mentions putting everything together without the gaskets. I'm not sure that I would agree with this. When the distributor quit on my '37 Ford I found that thin paper gaskets were used between the caps. I noticed that the wire bales were not real tight. Both inner and outer caps showed slippage and the nibs were damaged. With new caps and cork gaskets the bales go on tight. I believe that the previous owner assembled the distributor this way. I put about 3200 miles on the car until this happened. Perhaps the gaskets could be eliminated if the bales were bent some way.

I bend my bails so they fit tight. I do not drive my cars in the rain ans simply dont run the gaskets. Just a personal preference. Nothing wrong with running them

[Karl]

Originally Posted by DavidG

But placed in an unfortunate location for servicing.

Say that again -I'd like a dollar for every radiator scrape my knuckles have taken ! Took me a while to figure out that the whole job is a lot easier if the generator and fan is removed first ( a job that only takes a minute or two )

[Lawson Cox]

I have smoked over my parts carefully, and the pictures which have been posted. Thanks a bunch for the pictures by the way. As soon as my new gaskets arrive from Michael I will remove the passenger side wire looms and check out everything carefully to find out just what my problem is and, following the photos hopefully I can make things all better. I will update you as I go along. Hopefully with success. Lawson

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by Karl

Say that again -I'd like a dollar for every radiator scrape my knuckles have taken ! Took me a while to figure out that the whole job is a lot easier if the generator and fan is removed first ( a job that only takes a minute or two )

I have replaced these distributors with a car up in the air on a 2 post lift and the lower radiator splash shield removed. Either way a simple job takes a little longer. Although the look of the helmet distributor is worth it.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Seth Swoboda

I have replaced these distributors with a car up in the air on a 2 post lift and the lower radiator splash shield removed. Either way a simple job takes a little longer. Although the look of the helmet distributor is worth it.

This is the way to do it. No messing with fan belt tightness, no backaches, no knuckle scrapes. Run the front wheels up on a curb if you don't have ramps.
Use a long headless bolt to assist in alignment till you have the other two bolts in place.

[Lawson Cox]

Hey Seth and Alan. At my age I'm just grateful that this engine is mounted on a stand and I have unfettered access to the distributor. LOL