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#21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,139
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I would NOT replace the coil or condenser.
I'd look at the short black wire under the top plate in the distributor. If that is good, then look for the popout cable to be screwed in too far or bad along it's length. BTW, today's gas boils way easier than the good gas of the 60's, and this will cause problems on hot days with carbureted engines. |
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#22 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Westphalia, Texas
Posts: 27
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I'm fixing to install my new 6v coil and new condenser. I'll post what happens then. All the arrows point to a bad coil/condenser. Seeing as how the both of them together cost less than a steak at Texas Roadhouse, I'm ok with replacing both.
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#23 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Westphalia, Texas
Posts: 27
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Tom this problem seems to be an intermittent problem. One day it worked well then next day it didn't then the next day it worked again.
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#24 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,139
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That the common sign of a bad switch or ignition cable. Keep the coil and condenser under the seat for the day you might need them. |
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#25 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Westphalia, Texas
Posts: 27
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New coil and new condenser and the car runs good again.
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 616
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If you do decide to replace them, I'd replace one at a time. Otherwise, if this fixes the problem you won't know which one did the fixing.
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#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: SoCal
Posts: 632
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You said you were fixing your gas gauge. So you had the dash panel off to replace the ammeter. You might check the wiring from your ignition switch and the terminals on the switch. I had a problem like yours and found the panel was shorting out when assembled in place, when it was hanging from the dash I had spark.
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#28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 199
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Just a thought...If you have the little fuse block on the side of the starter bolt where the battery connects, that fuse block can get loose and short out interminterly and sometimes work and sometimes not. If you wiggle it and the car starts or stalls, then you have located a/the problem. I usually take the fuse out and then see if the body rotates or moves up and down...if it does, it is a good idea to replace it...Ernie in Arizona
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,563
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Ditto
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Talk slow, think fast. |
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#30 | |
Senior Member
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Let's look at the wiring diagram, The flow in into the coil on the black wire and out on the red. The red goes to the switch and travels down the armored cable to the points. With the points open and ign on, if you measure from the engine block (ground) to each on the wires on the coil you will get voltage. If the points are closed you will get voltage on the black terminal only. With the ing off it depends on if you have an original switch or not and if it is working properly the voltage readings ![]()
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#31 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Westphalia, Texas
Posts: 27
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Turns out it was in fact the coil and or the condenser. I just replaced both and now the car runs great. There is no hard starting and no more cutting out under a load anymore. Thank you all for the advice and troubleshooting tips.
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