Coil has constant power

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would NOT replace the coil or condenser.
I'd look at the short black wire under the top plate in the distributor. If that is good, then look for the popout cable to be screwed in too far or bad along it's length.


BTW, today's gas boils way easier than the good gas of the 60's, and this will cause problems on hot days with carbureted engines.

[Dave1929]

I'm fixing to install my new 6v coil and new condenser. I'll post what happens then. All the arrows point to a bad coil/condenser. Seeing as how the both of them together cost less than a steak at Texas Roadhouse, I'm ok with replacing both.

[Dave1929]

Tom this problem seems to be an intermittent problem. One day it worked well then next day it didn't then the next day it worked again.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Dave1929

Tom this problem seems to be an intermittent problem. One day it worked well then next day it didn't then the next day it worked again.

That the common sign of a bad switch or ignition cable.
Keep the coil and condenser under the seat for the day you might need them.

[Dave1929]

New coil and new condenser and the car runs good again.

[JBill]

If you do decide to replace them, I'd replace one at a time. Otherwise, if this fixes the problem you won't know which one did the fixing.

[denniskliesen]

Originally Posted by Dave1929

The ammeter was showing wrong because when I was fixing the gas gauge it fell out onto the concrete floor not because there was a discharge. My battery hasn't gone dead at all.

You said you were fixing your gas gauge. So you had the dash panel off to replace the ammeter. You might check the wiring from your ignition switch and the terminals on the switch. I had a problem like yours and found the panel was shorting out when assembled in place, when it was hanging from the dash I had spark.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Just a thought...If you have the little fuse block on the side of the starter bolt where the battery connects, that fuse block can get loose and short out interminterly and sometimes work and sometimes not. If you wiggle it and the car starts or stalls, then you have located a/the problem. I usually take the fuse out and then see if the body rotates or moves up and down...if it does, it is a good idea to replace it...Ernie in Arizona

[katy]

Originally Posted by JBill

If you do decide to replace them, I'd replace one at a time. Otherwise, if this fixes the problem you won't know which one did the fixing.

Ditto

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Dave1929

I have a 1929 Tudor without cowl lights. I have been running this car for a couple weeks and today it wouldn't start. No spark is what I found. I have noticed that no matter if the ignition switch is off or on I have a full 6v to the coil. Did this burn my coil out which equals no sparky? What would cause constant voltage to the coil? The ignition switch bench tests good. Is it possible a wire got switched around and it has just taken this long for the coil to finally give out? The coil looks old but that doesn't mean it wasn't put on right before I bought the car. Also I noticed I have a full 6v to the generator when the car is not running. Is this right?

Let's look at the wiring diagram,


The flow in into the coil on the black wire and out on the red. The red goes to the switch and travels down the armored cable to the points. With the points open and ign on, if you measure from the engine block (ground) to each on the wires on the coil you will get voltage. If the points are closed you will get voltage on the black terminal only. With the ing off it depends on if you have an original switch or not and if it is working properly the voltage readings you will get.

[Dave1929]

Turns out it was in fact the coil and or the condenser. I just replaced both and now the car runs great. There is no hard starting and no more cutting out under a load anymore. Thank you all for the advice and troubleshooting tips.