Replaced my carburetor...used copper line...going steel ASAP

[green50]

My original carburetor (94) was leaking at the gaskets so I changed it out with another one. When I put the steel fuel line back on it was leaking (ferrules bad). I made a new fuel line from copper (12"-16"), do you think of this is acceptable? It doesn't leak now. Thanks

[Jack E/NJ]

Are you known as an instigator? 8^)

Jack E/NJ

[Barry-ct]

Copper is not recommended for fuel line. It can get brittle from engine heat and crack. Replace it with the steel/copper line you get at the auto parts store. You can get new ferrels there also. Re-use the nuts if they're not stripped or damaged.
And yes, you may instigate a long discussion by posting a very controversial subject.

[green50]

Originally Posted by Barry-ct

Copper is not recommended for fuel line. It can get brittle from engine heat and crack. Replace it with the steel/copper line you get at the auto parts store. You can get new ferrels there also. Re-use the nuts if they're not stripped or damaged.
And yes, you may instigate a long discussion by posting a very controversial subject.

Thanks, I didn't mean instigate. I ran it from the fuel pump to the carburetor. I'll replace it with a steel line the first chance I get.

[oldford2]

Well, here come the anti copper folks. "Too brittle and will crack under vibration". Except, there is no movement (vibration) between the fuel pump and carb. I have never seen a first hand report of a copper fuel line between the pump and carb cracking. Too many arm chair metallurgists out there.
JMO
John

[Mac VP]

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I just went thru this on the '42 Ford. Previous owner had installed a copper line. We stock some pre-bent factory fuel lines (steel of course) but not the correct one for my 42. We also stock fuel line kits....copper coated steel with the ferrules and brass fittings. You make up yourself.

This was a great opportunity to try out the stuff we sell. First of all, use a proper tubing bender....the steel line will kink if you try to bend by hand or try to wrap it around a screwdriver handle. Scratch one line!

Second attempt. Located my long lost tubing bender. Made perfect bends but I made it ever so slightly short, and couldn't finagle it into place and keep the fittings lined up squarely. Scratch a second line!

Third attempt. The line is plenty long enough. I just made my first bend (from the carb inlet) with an extra inch or so of line to my first bend. Due to the angles involved between the carb and the fuel pump, I ended up making 3 bends altogether. It's awkward trying to find the best spots for your second and third bends because everything on the motor is in the way. I trimmed the ends to my final length when I felt comfortable with my angles.

The ferrules (compression fittings) are slid onto the tubing ends AFTER you slide on the brass fitting. Leave about 1/16" of tubing showing to the ferrule. I installed one end of my new line into its location at a time....this lets you make sure the line is fully inserted and the ferrule is tightened, securing it onto the tubing permanently. Then remove that end and repeat the process set the other end. Finally, reinstall your new line and retighten both fittings. No sealer or Teflon tape should be necessary to prevent leaks.

Tips....use a proper tubing cutter to make your cuts. Trim any flash from the inside of the tube at your cut. Blow out the line after any cutting. I also found that my ferrules didn't want to slide onto the tube at my fresh cuts. I used a fine tooth file to smooth out the ends for the ferrules.

I feel much happier knowing that I now have a proper steel fuel line to my carb. Sure would hate to be in one of those side-of-the-road videos of a car engulfed in flames.

[B-O-B]

Guess mine is wrong but I'll tuff it out. Copper all the way from the tank to the carb,a couple of interruptions along the way for elec pump & (3)filters. I know some are not overjoyed with glass filter either. I used one on my 66 vette for over 20 years with no problems.

[ford38v8]

Mac, That's a great How-To.
I can add just one tip that you will agree could have made your job easier:
Use a metal coat hanger as a prototype for lengths between bends.

[ford38v8]

B-o-b, Familiarize yourself with the instructions on the side of the bottle.

[42merc]

Originally Posted by Barry-ct

Copper is not recommended for fuel line. It can get brittle from engine heat and crack. Replace it with the steel/copper line you get at the auto parts store. You can get new ferrels there also. Re-use the nuts if they're not stripped or damaged.
And yes, you may instigate a long discussion by posting a very controversial subject.

IMO, using copper gas line on these old Fords is not a big deal, except for the purists.
The days of driving daily on washboard gravel roads are long gone.
The copper line that was installed will outlast the owners life span.

[B-O-B]

Alan I carry one in every car & NOT in the trunk but right by my feet. Grundy is my pal also.


I don't think the sky is falling!!!

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Mac VP

I just went thru this on the '42 Ford. Previous owner had installed a copper line. We stock some pre-bent factory fuel lines (steel of course) but not the correct one for my 42. We also stock fuel line kits....copper coated steel with the ferrules and brass fittings. You make up yourself.

This was a great opportunity to try out the stuff we sell. First of all, use a proper tubing bender....the steel line will kink if you try to bend by hand or try to wrap it around a screwdriver handle. Scratch one line!

Second attempt. Located my long lost tubing bender. Made perfect bends but I made it ever so slightly short, and couldn't finagle it into place and keep the fittings lined up squarely. Scratch a second line!

Third attempt. The line is plenty long enough. I just made my first bend (from the carb inlet) with an extra inch or so of line to my first bend. Due to the angles involved between the carb and the fuel pump, I ended up making 3 bends altogether. It's awkward trying to find the best spots for your second and third bends because everything on the motor is in the way. I trimmed the ends to my final length when I felt comfortable with my angles.

The ferrules (compression fittings) are slid onto the tubing ends AFTER you slide on the brass fitting. Leave about 1/16" of tubing showing to the ferrule. I installed one end of my new line into its location at a time....this lets you make sure the line is fully inserted and the ferrule is tightened, securing it onto the tubing permanently. Then remove that end and repeat the process set the other end. Finally, reinstall your new line and retighten both fittings. No sealer or Teflon tape should be necessary to prevent leaks.

Tips....use a proper tubing cutter to make your cuts. Trim any flash from the inside of the tube at your cut. Blow out the line after any cutting. I also found that my ferrules didn't want to slide onto the tube at my fresh cuts. I used a fine tooth file to smooth out the ends for the ferrules.

I feel much happier knowing that I now have a proper steel fuel line to my carb. Sure would hate to be in one of those side-of-the-road videos of a car engulfed in flames.

Mac, A great "how to" - thanks. One thing I might add: Solder the ferrule to the line. Ford did that for a reason.

[Charlie ny]

X2 on the solder !
Charlie ny

[bobH]

Mac makes some good points. I've tried to make this piece with TWO bends - very difficult to get it right. Mac's point of making THREE bends is a good one - leaves some wiggle-room. However, I wonder what Mac means by using a 'proper tubing cutter'. My background suggests a technique that I never see suggested here. I was taught (aerospace) to never use a 'roller-type' tubing cutter (for stainless) because it work-hardens the end, and leaves it slightly oversize (plus the internal burr). Hence, Mac says the ferrules don't fit without some polishing on the end. I was issued and taught to use a fixture that holds the tubing square, and uses a hacksaw to cut the tube. Then, deburr and polish, paying attention to the surface where the ferrule will rest. And, as Mac says, leave a little tubing beyond the ferrel, but NEVER tubing all the way into the fitting. I've carried this technique over to old car applications, with good success. Just a point of view, JMO
(Of course, the aerospace folks here will note, we NEVER used ferrule-type fittings for flight - in our case, Swagelok. - Only AN)

[ford3]

I have never seen an original car come from the factory with copper fuel lines, always steel, the engineers must know some thing us restorers don't, its steel for me, and also any car that has to go thru safety inspection for registration will not pass with copper fuel lines, that includes Canada

[DavidG]

The saddest part of this debate is the high probability that users of copper fuel lines will not survive the experience of their copper line failing.

[Henry Hopper]

And when the steel line rusts through and sprays fuel all over your engine ,what then?Absolutley nothing wrong with pump to carb copper lines...no vibration, no pressure of note,no rusting, easy to form,perfect for the job.I bet some of you guys stay in the house and lock the doors and windows every Friday 13th.

I work in the refrigeration industry and rarely if ever do I come across fractured copper lines...vibration,heat,cool,high pressures and virtually 24/7 running for years on end....last week I worked on a unit 40 years old and stiil has all the original pipework..all copper.

If you feel safer using steel, then do so, but there really is no need imo.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Steel is stronger and more durable, is I think cheaper than copper, is original, is required for safety in places where there are very thorough inspections, is what all the manufacturers use, while copper is...hmmmm...maybe a little easier to bend...?
This is going to be a difficult choice...

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

The saddest part of this debate is the high probability that users of copper fuel lines will not survive the experience of their copper line failing.

Dave, I agree with you 100%. I have stayed out of this debate thus far as I have found it diffivult (at best) in the past to convince folks that just because "it worked for me" does not equate to a good (ie: safe) repair. Lots of things "work". That doesn't mean they don't stop working at a very inconvenient time nor at risk to the surrounding folks.
Years ago, it became unlawful (in Wisconsin at least) to knowingly sell compression fittings to a fellow repairing brake lines. I am confident many guys (see : copper fuel line users) have repaired brake lines with compression fittings and "it worked for them".
There would be no law banning their use if at some point a catastrophic event did not occur because of compression fittings in a brake line.
Yeah folks, keep using copper lines... and hopefully, you and innocents around you will at all times remain safe.
In the meantime, I will take just a few more moments and repair / replace my lines, etc. CORRECTLY.
Whatever happened to "do it right the first time"? When was that replaced by "do it fast and cheap 'cause that's good enough"?

[deuce lover]

A tip for multi carb lines.As you can see from the first pic the compression fitting copper lines and all the fittings just did not look right to me and leaked slightly.I just about severed a line by over tightening.I don't care for the fuel blocks that are placed on the firewall and then hoses to each carb.I took some left over 1/4 steel line and made this up.A little more work -especially lining up the line for the carb nearest the firewall.I had a friend tig weld the connection w/silicon bronze rod(no leaks)The loop going to the pump was done on purpose so as to facilitate removing the line without having to loosen the carbs or pump.Hope this helps.