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08-15-2018, 11:52 PM | #1 |
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Replacing A connecting rod in place
Can a Model A connecting rod be replaced without removing the head or the engine from the car, like Tom Joad did on the 1926 Hudson in The Grapes of Wrath?
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08-15-2018, 11:58 PM | #2 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Yes, but it does require some wiggling ---I changed out a #3 on my car using right angle snap ring pliers----most likely original centerlocks pins won't be able to be removed,
pulled the piston as far down as possible, rotate 45 degrees, by grabbing the end of the pin with snap ring pliers and wiggling in unison with the rod the pin can be moved over enough |
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08-16-2018, 02:48 AM | #3 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Sounds interesting. Maybe I’ll try it.
I’ve got a bad rod knock, and I have been too lazy to fix it. I’ve got another engine to rebuild and put in 29 Roadster, but no telling when I will get around to doing that. I’ve just been running it around town on three cylinders for a couple of years. |
08-16-2018, 02:51 AM | #4 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Has anyone else had any experience trying to do this?
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08-16-2018, 05:35 AM | #5 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
If the rod isn’t bent , hoping the small end of the rod is Acceptable
Remove shim from rod cap
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08-16-2018, 07:01 AM | #6 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
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08-16-2018, 07:18 AM | #7 | |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Quote:
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08-16-2018, 07:38 AM | #8 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
I never tried my technique with an A. I know it worked with the Stude, but that's quite a different engine. In light of this news, I'd be tempted to take the head off and be done with it. With a rod being bad, better make sure it's not the crank journal.
Frank |
08-16-2018, 07:41 AM | #9 | |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Quote:
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08-16-2018, 07:49 AM | #10 | |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Quote:
You will have to use the right under size rod. How do you know if it fits the wrist pin right. In the end it is always better to do things right the first time. I would pull the head and do it right. I have changed rods in a old chev 216 that way, but I would not do it now. In the end it will take as long and will not be as good. |
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08-16-2018, 07:51 AM | #11 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
All that manovering sure makes pulling the head sound easy... Just sayin'.
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08-16-2018, 08:07 AM | #12 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
how hard is it to pull a head?
Ran on 3 cylinders for a couple years? No chance that all the gasoline mist the fourth inhaled would wash the oil off the cylinder walls and kill the rings/bore |
08-16-2018, 08:40 AM | #13 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Most likely the engine needs a complete rebuild. All the rods rings pistons valves had traveled the same distance. So unless some thing happened to just that rod the rest are not far behind. Like I said it is always best to do it right.
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08-16-2018, 08:57 AM | #14 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
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08-16-2018, 09:04 AM | #15 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
I had a Willys Knight engine and that is the only way to remove a piston. (through the bottom). I agree that with an A do it right and remove the head then you can also check then rest of the engine. Jack
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08-16-2018, 09:16 AM | #16 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
I have done it. Used battery terminal pliers to pull the wrist pin out far enough to remove the rod. Engine went another 3,000 miles and was rebuilt for reasons other than rods.
It is not impossible but a lot of being horizontal under the car with oil dripping on you. I did it for a good friend. Old enough now I wouldn’t do it again. |
08-16-2018, 09:29 AM | #17 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
I did it because there was no crank damage---- and I didn't want to drain the coolant -- didn't even replace the pan gasket, I had figured it "temporary", the replacement rod is 10 grams heavier, dropped 3 mph off top speed---- and I know it was just that, it was the only thing changed, and timing, carburetor not touched
That temporary repair was over 25 years ago Last edited by Kurt in NJ; 08-16-2018 at 10:19 AM. |
08-16-2018, 11:06 AM | #18 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
"I had a Willys Knight engine and that is the only way to remove a piston. (through the bottom). I agree that with an A do it right and remove the head then you can also check then rest of the engine"
Any Knight engine is a very different beast than all the rest, no comparison |
08-16-2018, 12:07 PM | #19 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Do what my grandfather & his brother did. They were driving across Montana in a Model T & a rod bearing went bad. They dropped the pan & cut the leather heal out of a boot, wrapped it around the crank & replaced the rod cap. He said it ran that way for 3 yrs.
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08-16-2018, 12:20 PM | #20 |
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Re: Replacing A connecting rod in place
Thanks for all of the good advice. I knew it would be better to do it right. I was was just curios. It’s not like I’m in the middle of the desert at night with 50 cents in my pocket, like Tom.
Maybe this will get me started on my new rebuild engine project, or maybe I will just keep putting it off, and let my grandkids worry about it. |
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