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Old 09-26-2020, 10:27 AM   #1
Bob Bidonde
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Default Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Removal of the distributor also necessitates the removal of Head Nut 8 that secures the armored ignition cable clamp. A consequence of loosening / removing Nut 8 is coolant leakage into Cylinders 3 & 4. Make this simple modification to the cable clamp, and the risk of leakage goes away.
> Drain one gallon of coolant;
> Remove Head Nut 8 to release the cable clamp;
> Reinstall the head nut and torque to 55 ft-lbs for a stock head and 65 ft-lbs for a hi-compression head. The stud should protrude out of the nut enough to hold the clamp plus a jam nut;
> Replenish the coolant;

> Remove the clamp from the cable and cut the round end of the clamp as shown. Prime & paint the cut edge so it doesn't rust;
> Buy a 7/16-20 Jam Nut that is much thinner than a stock nut;
> Clamp the ignition cable using the modified clamp and the jam nut. Hence forth, only remove the jam nut to takeout the distributor.
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File Type: jpg 190A Popout Cable Clamp Mod 331KB.jpg (58.5 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg 190A Popout Cable Clamp Mod 305KB.jpg (57.8 KB, 87 views)
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Old 09-26-2020, 11:14 AM   #2
katy
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Alternately, just throw the clip away, nowadays it's not really needed anyways.
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Old 09-26-2020, 01:21 PM   #3
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Katy , that would make a purist sweat (lol)
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Old 09-26-2020, 07:02 PM   #4
Patrick L.
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Thats a good idea and it looks nice.
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Old 09-26-2020, 07:52 PM   #5
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Taking that clamp off completely looks even better.
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Old 09-26-2020, 09:36 PM   #6
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

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Quote:
Originally Posted by katy View Post
Alternately, just throw the clip away, nowadays it's not really needed anyways.
I tried that, but the distributor advance rod kept dragging on the armored ignition cable.
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Old 09-26-2020, 09:39 PM   #7
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

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Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde View Post
(...install a jam nut...)
I did that too, the same as what Bob recommends. Works and looks good.
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Old 09-26-2020, 11:14 PM   #8
Tom Endy
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

If you take the clamp off, replace it with a spacer the same thickness or replace the extra long stud with a shorter one, otherwise you can bottom out on the threads and not have that head bolt tight and you will blow a head gasket in that area.

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Old 09-27-2020, 09:26 AM   #9
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Thumbs up Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

I kind'a did the opposite of what Bob Bidonde did and didn't have to remove the clamp either. I cut a portion off the top of the clamp just enough so the ignition cable kind'a, sort'a "clips" into the clamp.


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Old 09-27-2020, 10:43 AM   #10
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde View Post
Removal of the distributor also necessitates the removal of Head Nut 8 that secures the armored ignition cable clamp. A consequence of loosening / removing Nut 8 is coolant leakage into Cylinders 3 & 4. Make this simple modification to the cable clamp, and the risk of leakage goes away.
> Drain one gallon of coolant;
> Remove Head Nut 8 to release the cable clamp;
> Reinstall the head nut and torque to 55 ft-lbs for a stock head and 65 ft-lbs for a hi-compression head. The stud should protrude out of the nut enough to hold the clamp plus a jam nut;
> Replenish the coolant;

> Remove the clamp from the cable and cut the round end of the clamp as shown. Prime & paint the cut edge so it doesn't rust;
> Buy a 7/16-20 Jam Nut that is much thinner than a stock nut;
> Clamp the ignition cable using the modified clamp and the jam nut. Hence forth, only remove the jam nut to takeout the distributor.

Where would I look for a jam nut like this?


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Old 09-28-2020, 05:23 AM   #11
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

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Where would I look for a jam nut like this?


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Old 09-28-2020, 05:52 AM   #12
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

OK I am puzzled on this. I cannot even begin to tell you how many times over the years we have removed the distributor by draining the coolant, removing the stud nut and the clamp, and then removing the distributor and cable. Then upon re-assembly, I retightened (torqued) that nut and refilled with coolant. I/we have not had any issues doing it the correct way, and this task is done so infrequently.

So it begs the question for me, why does this clamp modification need to be done? Maybe a better way of asking this is, why would the cable or distributor need to be removed outside of a garage environment when a drain catch bucket is normally available??

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Old 09-28-2020, 08:19 AM   #13
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Hi Brent,
The clamp mod is beneficial as a roadside fix to those who opt to install a spare distributor rather than to replace the points, the condenser or fiddle with a broken wire. Replacing the distributor is a common practice because it is faster and easier. I really think you know this.
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Old 09-28-2020, 09:48 AM   #14
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

I completed the modification as per Bob-A. No need to disturb the integrity of the head gasket seal. Thanks Bob.
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Old 09-28-2020, 09:57 AM   #15
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde View Post
Hi Brent,
The clamp mod is beneficial as a roadside fix to those who opt to install a spare distributor rather than to replace the points, the condenser or fiddle with a broken wire. Replacing the distributor is a common practice because it is faster and easier. I really think you know this.
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Originally Posted by Aretino View Post
I completed the modification as per Bob-A. No need to disturb the integrity of the head gasket seal. Thanks Bob.

Yeah, I guess I can change the points faster with the distributor still mounted into the cylinder head. The same with the condenser unless someone has installed a non-original heater manifold that blocks access. Even then, use one of the A&L burn-proof condenser and you won't have a problem. Adding to that, even most burned point contacts can be dressed with a file and re-gapped quicker than most hobbyists can find where they have their spare distributer stored in the car.
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Old 09-28-2020, 12:00 PM   #16
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde View Post
Hi Brent,
The clamp mod is beneficial as a roadside fix to those who opt to install a spare distributor rather than to replace the points, the condenser or fiddle with a broken wire. Replacing the distributor is a common practice because it is faster and easier. I really think you know this.

There have been several times during a tour that I was able to get a stalled car back on the road by installing my spare distributor and bypass cable. The bypass cable connects direct from the coil to the distributor.

When a car pulls to the side of the road with loss of ignition the fault can be a number of things, the wire going to the ignition switch from the coil, the ignition switch, the pop-out cable. The lower plate in the distributor, the wire connecting the upper plate and the lower plate, the points, the condenser.

It is much simpler to just replace the distributor and bypass the rest of the ignition to get the car running again.

I also witnessed a roadside distributor replacement where when the #8 head bolt nut was removed it dumped water into the pan.

I advocate removing the clamp and installing a standard length stud in the #8 position.

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Old 09-28-2020, 12:09 PM   #17
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

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There have been several times during a tour that I was able to get a stalled car back on the road by installing my spare distributor and bypass cable. The bypass cable connects direct from the coil to the distributor.

When a car pulls to the side of the road with loss of ignition the fault can be a number of things, the wire going to the ignition switch from the coil, the ignition switch, the pop-out cable. The lower plate in the distributor, the wire connecting the upper plate and the lower plate, the points, the condenser.

It is much simpler to just replace the distributor and bypass the rest of the ignition to get the car running again.

I also witnessed a roadside distributor replacement where when the #8 head bolt nut was removed it dumped water into the pan.

I advocate removing the clamp and installing a standard length stud in the #8 position.

Tom Endy
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Old 09-28-2020, 05:52 PM   #18
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

do you guys think the car came with the clamp installed to delay/deter theft? surely a thief had to disable the distributor from the cable to (somehow) start the car to steal it.
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Old 09-28-2020, 10:50 PM   #19
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

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do you guys think the car came with the clamp installed to delay/deter theft? surely a thief had to disable the distributor from the cable to (somehow) start the car to steal it.

I believe it was part of Henry's ant-theft design. You would have to remove the head bolt nut holding the clamp before you could remove the distributor to install a bypass cable to hot wire it. Another part of the design is that when the ignition key is switch to the off position a ground is applied to the points further restricting hot wiring. The armored pop-out cable prevents easy access to the wires also restricting hot wiring.

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Old 09-29-2020, 05:07 AM   #20
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Default Re: Distributor Removal Tip Re Ignition Cable Clamp

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Thanks! I plan to stop by there today. Draining the radiator is a messy pain.
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