Throwout bearing choice

[tubman]

I'm about ready to put the engine back in my '51. With my new Fort Wayne clutch, I'd like to put in a new throwout bearing. I would really like to re-use the original, but it's noisy when you spin it and rattles when you shake it. I have 2 new throwout bearings I have picked up over the years. One is marked : "C7AZ-7580-B" and "CB 1181". The second is marked ".1625-12." and "FM-MEX". The first one looks a little different from the original, but it appears to be functionally the same. From the part number on it, I believe it is a later model Ford replacement part, country of manufacture, unknown. The second appears to me to be a straight replacement made in Mexico. When I turn them manually on the collar, the "FM-MEX" one seems to be just a bit smoother than the other. Anyone have any insight on which one would be better to use? Has anyone ever experienced a throwout bearing failure? What's the general opinion on Mexican bearings? The last thing I want to do is have to replace a failed throwout bearing after I finally get this thing back together.

[chap52]

Just replaced a TO bearing and hub (as well as clutch & Pressure Plate) in my 52 F-1. The bearings do go out and it usually starts with a whirling noise when the clutch is depressed.
I know you have the others on hand but C&G sells the bearing with a new hub for about $40. . What's the cost for piece of mind? I know you don't want to "do it again" for $40.
Just my 2 cents worth.
https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgca...&searchnumber=

[john in illinois]

I have had good luck for 23,000 miles with Federal Mogal (FM)bearing from Mexico in my model A. At the time they were the prefered bearing.

Here is an interesting idea from Rumble Seats techno info.

Throw-out bearings. Several years ago, these bearings began being manufactured with some cheap thin grease. They still are today. This gets like oil in a hurry because of the clutch heat. Consequently, the lubrication is thrown out of the bearing as it rotates in engagement. Maybe it was done this way to put some grease on our new clutches! Most throw-out bearings are merely out of grease. I drill a 1/8" hole on the outside edge of the bearing (not on the engagement surface). This is pretty hard and requires a quality drill bit. I use a needle type u-joint grease adapter on my grease gun and give it TWO (not 3) shots of chassis grease. Rotate the bearing halfway around after the first pump to disperse the grease. I use a very short sheet metal screw and some red lock tite to seal the hole. In one of my cars, I was able to get nearly 200,000 miles on the same throw-out bearing using this method.

[russcc]

Excellent post on Rumbleseat's grease it technique. Makes a lot of sense, and 200,000. miles is proof positive. The real issue is what you start with. I suggest you check with Ft Wayne clutch to see what they have. I got an Aetna TO bearing from them a month or so ago, Aetna has been in biz for years, and makes this and other bearings in the IL, USA. Stamped USA, and wrapped in oil paper as all bearings should be. The other junk is a plastic sleeve.

[Capsacto]

The TO bearing in my 37 recently seized. Since the trans was out I checked the gears because it was crunching during downshifting. Gave Mac VanPelt a call and bought a 39 gear set, a NOS Ford pressure plate, rebuilt clutch, new oillite pilot bushing and a Federal Mogul-Mex TO bearing. Mac sells quality parts at a reasonable price along with great service. I trust Mac, but only time will tell how long that TO bearing will last. I do not want to change it again.

[oldford2]

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Well, just as an aside here is what happened to me. I rebuilt my original 46 59ab 2 years ago (47,000 miles) and installed an nos pressure plate and clutch. When I removed the TO bearing it was froze. The fingers on the PP had shiny flats worn on them. Yet, never any noise and no clutch chatter. Maybe a leaky rear seal sort of lubed the fingers?
John

[tubman]

It appears to me that the "FM-MEX" stamp means a federal Mogul bearing made in Mexico. Given this information, this is the one I am going to use. Thanks guys!

[Mac VP]

The FM-MEX marking is indeed the bearing made in the Federal Mogul plant in Mexico. FM was bought out a couple years ago by National I believe. This is our source for the Ford 78-7580 bearing. There are other "sources" for this bearing from other places around the world and I can't say that I like the quality of them.

If you do attempt Rumbleseat's advice on drilling the bearing, be sure you do all you can to prevent metal chips from getting inside the bearing. It wouldn't take but a piece or two to cause premature failure of the bearing.

While on the subject, it bears repeating (and I'm probably preaching to the choir) but for any newbies reading this.....any continuous use of a clutch release bearing will result in its early failure. This type of bearing is designed for intermittent use. Don't sit at the red light with the clutch pedal pushed in as a driving habit. Keep your left foot off the pedal while driving except when needed to push in the clutch. Make sure that the clutch is adjusted correctly to allow for about 1 inch of free play at the top of the pedal travel.......this keeps the release bearing off the spinning pressure plate fingers. Be sure that you have installed the bearing and pedal return springs which hold the bearing away from the pressure plate except when you press down the clutch.

[tubman]

Thanks Mac. This reinforces my own opinion. Also, in my situation, "Rumbleseat"'s method would amount to overkill.