Looking for engine stand plans

[fiddlybits]

Before I start cutting and welding...does anyone have plans for a engine / engine_transmission stand already on paper?

Specifically I'm looking for a roll around, supporting the engine at the four engine pan bolt points of the oil pan, not the engine mount points.

This would be more of a "storage" engine stand.

[Dave in MN]

Although not metal, this stand has worked well for me over the years. Great storage stand...and cheap! Click the link to open the page showing photos and a parts list.
Good Day!

[Bob C]

I built one like Dave's link and set in on a Harbor Freight dolly.

Bob

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Contact Will Cronkrite as he sells the plans to fabricate a stand that supports the engine off of the pan rails. I probably have 10-12 of his stands in my shop to store engines on.

[fiddlybits]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

Although not metal, this stand has worked well for me over the years. Great storage stand...and cheap! Click the link to open the page showing photos and a parts list.
Good Day!

This will work (in metal ) for the first phase. Thanks!

[fiddlybits]

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Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Contact Will Cronkrite as he sells the plans to fabricate a stand that supports the engine off of the pan rails. I probably have 10-12 of his stands in my shop to store engines on.

photo?

Thanks for the contact.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by fiddlybits

photo?

Thanks for the contact.

http://www.mantiquesresto.com/Restor...wc06%20003.jpg

[sethkestenbaum]

This post I made a while back has a picture of the wood stand and a cut sheet used to create it. I would imagine you could just add wheels or put it on a dolly. I hope it is helpful.

https://oldcarroadtrip.wordpress.com...ember-14-2014/

[gwhite]

Not really a 'storage' stand - and it doesn't exactly conform to your requirements of support via the oil pan rail, but I'm in the process of building a run-in/test stand using a spare T frame and A cross member I had laying around. Basically, we used the front 42" of the T frame for the top piece (with an A cross member welded in) and the rear 42" of the T frame for the bottom perimeter. 1/8" 1x3 tubing forms the uprights, and we'll be welding 4" U channel onto the top of the frame rail for the 'ears' of the flywheel housing to rest upon. Total cost - $60 (materials and heavy-duty casters).

The A cross member allows for radiator mounting and we'll be fabricating a battery box, mounting a fuel tank, and adding a 'control panel' for temp, ammeter, fuel pressure gauge & pump, and oil pressure gauge. I figure this will allow initial run-in of my newly rebuilt engine and serve as an adjustment/tinkering stand if/when the motor ever needs to be pulled. I think the extra 8" or so of width are worth it to ensure that I can drop the pan if I need to....something to consider (and since I had most of the materials available, it was cheap)

[Tom Endy]

attached are a couple of photos of an engine stand for a Model A engine several of us built. It is equipped with a water temp gauge, EGT gauge, tachometer, running time meter, and an ammeter for use when we choose to mount an alternator. the stand is set up for 12-volts to accommodate the gauges and indicator lights, ignition, and provides the ability to use a 12-volt battery.

Everything that is painted red is dedicated to the stand. The gas tank assembly mount and all the controls are attached to the two bolts that would normally mount the accelerator assembly on the back of the clutch housing. This is where the ground is picked up for all the gauges and the ignition. All the gauges are disconnected with a single cannon connector.

A couple of lessons learned over four different engines tested.

At 160 water temp and at 2000 RPM the EGT reading is 800 with the GAV open 1\2-3\4 turn. The water temp probe is in the water outlet hose with a 160 thermostat. The EGT gauge is located in the entrance to the muffler just below the manifold. The jets in the carburetor were properly flow tested and resized.

Close the GAV and the EGT goes to 1000. Run the RPM up to 2300 with the GAV back open and the EGT can go to 1200. The pistons and valves do not see these kinds of EGT temps as they are continually washed with fresh air and gas.

When the engine is removed the gas tank assemble is removed and set aside along with the dummy bell housing covering the flywheel. Everything else can remain in place except some of the accessories like carburetor and starter. An idler pulley is generally installed in place of an alternator.

There are several added features that may not be visible in the photos. There is a parking brake to prevent the stand from taking off down the road. The throttle control rod comes through the front panel of the gas tank mount. Spark advance is controlled by a wooden rod attached to the distributor to prevent tangling up with a spark pug lead. Instruction for the spark advance direction are posted near by. There is also a reproduction 12-volt ahooguh horn mounted to the stand to provide a warning blast for start up.

We did not generate any drawings either mechanical of electrical during the construction of the stand.

Tom Endy

[gwhite]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

attached are a couple of photos of an engine stand for a Model A engine several of us built. It is equipped with a water temp gauge, EGT gauge, tachometer, running time meter, and an ammeter for use when we choose to mount an alternator. the stand is set up for 12-volts to accommodate the gauges and indicator lights, ignition, and provides the ability to use a 12-volt battery.

Everything that is painted red is dedicated to the stand. The gas tank assembly mount and all the controls are attached to the two bolts that would normally mount the accelerator assembly on the back of the clutch housing. This is where the ground is picked up for all the gauges and the ignition. All the gauges are disconnected with a single cannon connector.

A couple of lessons learned over four different engines tested.

At 160 water temp and at 2000 RPM the EGT reading is 800 with the GAV open 1\2-3\4 turn. The water temp probe is in the water outlet hose with a 160 thermostat. The EGT gauge is located in the entrance to the muffler just below the manifold. The jets in the carburetor were properly flow tested and resized.

Close the GAV and the EGT goes to 1000. Run the RPM up to 2300 with the GAV back open and the EGT can go to 1200. The pistons and valves do not see these kinds of EGT temps as they are continually washed with fresh air and gas.

When the engine is removed the gas tank assemble is removed and set aside along with the dummy bell housing covering the flywheel. Everything else can remain in place except some of the accessories like carburetor and starter. An idler pulley is generally installed in place of an alternator.

There are several added features that may not be visible in the photos. There is a parking brake to prevent the stand from taking off down the road. The throttle control rod comes through the front panel of the gas tank mount. Spark advance is controlled by a wooden rod attached to the distributor to prevent tangling up with a spark pug lead. Instruction for the spark advance direction are posted near by. There is also a reproduction 12-volt ahooguh horn mounted to the stand to provide a warning blast for start up.

We did not generate any drawings either mechanical of electrical during the construction of the stand.

Tom Endy

Very cool! Wish I would have seen that before I got started on mine

[fiddlybits]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

Although not metal, this stand has worked well for me over the years. Great storage stand...and cheap! Click the link to open the page showing photos and a parts list.
Good Day!

Used you plans. Did the job. Took only 15 minutes to make. Thanks.

[fiddlybits]

Tom - awesome stand! a lot more than I need but that'should the best reason to build it.