Installing emergency brake return springs

[wrndln]

I know this has been covered extensively, but I have been trying to install the springs on the emergency brake levers. Unfortunately, the service brakes and emergency brakes are installed on the rearend and all I need to do to finish is install the spring(s). I made a hook tool and I can get the spring within about 3/8" from slipping around the lever. However the spring hangs up at this point and no matter how hard I pull the spring it wont move any farther. It appears the turns on the spring are getting tight on the housing. I bought the springs at Bratton's, so I believe it is not some cheap, non-fitting spring. I also know I have the correct spring on the correct backing plate (checked several picture of the springs for right and left). I know there is a way to install the spring(s) as the the backing plates are assembled, but I would rather not disassemble everything on the plates. Is there a way to just remove the cotter key and pin on the emergency brake shaft and connect the return spring(s) and rotate the shaft back and reinstall the pin and cotter key? Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, I have search the past posts and have not seen the spring binding problem like I have - just using the hook.
Rusty Nelson

[Pilotdave]

Rusty, I share your pain. I think that the spring is getting wound pretty tightly and you are running out of leverage and space in which to operate.

Does "cotter key and pin" mean "locking bolt and Woodruff key"? If so, we're on the same page!

Although others have described installing that spring with the backing plate and radius rod bolted up, I had to remove the radius rod to do it. Even then it wasn't easy. IF you have the space to remove the locking bolt on that holds the lever on the shaft AND to slide the lever off the shaft far enough to disengage from the Woodruff key, you can then rotate the lever, slip the spring hook over the lever, rotate it back, engage the key, and slide it back on to the shaft. Then replace the locking bolt and the radius rod and you're good to go.

[Rusty Homestead Fl]

Hey Rusty
I installed mine a few weeks ago and I'd almost get it on but, like you, just needed a little more. Pilotdave offered good suggestions with others a few weeks ago. What I found to be my biggest problem was the end of the spring (not the hooked end) was resting on the little flange on the backing plate where the shaft goes through. It's only about 1/8 inch high but it's just enough to shorten movement or twist to get the end of the spring over the lever. Just pull the spring as tight as you can and use a long screwdriver to push the end of the spring off the little flange and you'll get the added length you need. It's still a pain on the car but very do-able.

[wrndln]

I got the springs Installed this morning!!! I removed the cotter keys and pins holding the C shaped connecting arm to the emergency brake operating shaft. By moving the shaft as far to the outside (not a lot as it hit the emergency brake band quickly) allowed me to pull the springs around the lever. It was very tight in getting the springs around the levers, but I managed to do it. I hope I don't have to install another set of springs for a long time.
Rusty Nelson

[Tom from Drippin']

If we are talking about the return springs on the outside of the backing plate...I have found it's easiest to make a loop of machinest wire, place a piece if broom handle or large dowel through the loop, twist one end of the loop tight to the dowel and hook the other end of the loop on the spring. Then you can pull the spring into position using the dowel as a handle, and cut the wire and pull it out after the spring is hooked. ..... NOTE: The springs are handed..right and left...they are NOT interchangeable!

[CarlG]

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Even after reading all this and looking at several of the pictures, I'm sure I haven't got things correct. I didn't have a pattern to go by since one of the old springs was in 3 or 4 pieces, and the other one wasn't torqued up anyway, just hanging there.

I did discover (as Tom said) that there is a right and a left, just not sure which is which. I had just about come to the conclusion (as Pilot Dave suggested) that taking the radius rod off is going to be my only way out. I'll try that in the morning.

[BashawT]

What an absolute pain in the rear end.I finally got these things on but then I noticed the top loop of the springs got caught underneath the lever so it wont seat properly. AHHHH!!!

[JBill]

When I did mine I was working on just an assembled chassis, no body mounted, so that made access a little better. Still, I recall just using a length of nylon cord to pull the spring around pretty easily. I'm thinking my springs must have been a little bit more generous in size or something, because I can sure sympathize with you folks having the problems. Still and all, isn't it solving apparently insurmountable problems like this (and finally pulling off those stubborn rear hubs!!) that makes restoring As such a satisfying hobby? Just sayin'.

[BashawT]

I finally got them on today. 90 degrees outside and humid so I sweated something fierce. I had the backing plates off the car and I hooked the spring around the lever and then twisted the lever around until it slid down into its place. Was still quite a pain but it's a hell of a relief when you finish both sides. Can't imagine doing this job with the body mounted. YIKES!

[jkeesey]

Alright guys I do this on cars that are driving in my door without removing anything but the drum. How bout we set up a fordbarn meet at my shop in southeastern pa and I show everyone.

[CarlG]

Please film it so that us'ns that live outside the NE US can benefit.










Pretty Please?

[CountrySquire55]

Here is what I did before installing the rear brake drums. For installing the emergency brake lever springs (there is a left and right spring), once all the emergency brake parts are on the car, do not yet connect the emergency brake connecting lever to the emergency brake toggle lever. This will give you about 3/4" more rearward movement of the toggle lever which makes all the difference. Lying under the car, I then used a tack removal tool (similar to a flat screwdriver with a notch cut in the end) to push the hook of the emergency brake spring over the toggle lever. With the extra 3/4" to work with, installing the spring takes about 10 seconds. Then, with the spring installed, you can easily pry the connecting lever to align with the hole on the toggle lever and install the connecting pin, cotter pin, and then install the drum. I have no problem removing or installing the springs but this method requires the rear drums to be off the car.

[Pilotdave]

jkeesey, an added point: when taking apart the brakes, do you remove the rear backing plate with the ebrake lever installed? I could not figure out how to make that work until I removed the radius rods. I can see a whole series of brake repair videos coming!

[jkeesey]

I completely disassemble the brake when removing them. Meaning I pull the lever arms and remove the e brake band then the carrier then the shoes and if needed the backplate. But if the A only needs the springs I don't remove any of it. I just did one last week only with the drums off because I check every new A that comes into my shop because I have yet to find a brake setup done exactly perfect.

[Pilotdave]

Sounds like a good system. I raised the disassembly question within this thread because the reference books imply one can remove the backing plates with the return springs, ebrake levers and radius rods in place. Perhaps so, though I couldn't make that work on our Tudor. So....there's a need to know how to remove those pesky ebrake return springs as well as how to install them.

[jkeesey]

I'll take a look at the next set I do. Usually they come into my shop either missing or broken so removal isn't really an issue but I'm sure I can use the same technique I do on install. Generally I never remove the radius rods for anything being as that's how I pick them up on my lift.

[Hook]

I just removed my backing plates and discovered the same think Pilotdave did. Les's book tells us to remove the backing plate and brakes to rebuild, but the only way I could get them out was to remove the parking brake lever. Since it appears the parking brake spring is a real bugger to install, it would seem it would be easier to do this on the bench. However, then it seems the only way to get the whole assembly back together is to remove the radius rods. I haven't had the radius rods out, so apparently there is a trade off between removing the radius rods and doing the parking brake springs on the bench versus leaving the radius rods installed and doing the parking brake springs per the suggestions. Please give my your opinion on which is the lesser evil!
Thanks,
Larry

[H. L. Chauvin]

Best to remove "C" as mentioned above; however, if everything is already assembled, hope this helps in this particular case:

Just installed two last night with backing plate on & everything assembled.

1. First, the point on the emergency brake spring hook, (which ressembles a large fish hook), points towards the differential on both the right & left side springs; & the spring fits between the emergency brake arm lever & the backing plate. The hook part of the spring hooks at top on the emergency brake lever & the bottom straight part of the spring hooks on crevice between the backing plate & the rear radius rod. (The end of the straight part of the spring at the bottom points towards the engine compartment).

2. Tool: Make a hook tool with a coat hanger with about a 1/2" return on the hook side, & from the 1/2" hook on the tool hook to the bottom of the wood handle should be about 7".

3. Tool Handle: The handle can be a 5" long broom handle, large dowel, or a piece of 5" long wood, 3/4" x 1-1/2", with a coat hanger wire size through-hole drilled through the 3/4" side & centered on the 5" width. After the wire goes throught the wood, make a knot with the wire to keep it from re-entering the hole in the wood handle when pulling the hook.

4. Hook the hook tool on the top of the emergency brake spring hook & pull forward towards the engine.

5. TRICKS:

A. Work from inside the rear wheel fender well, (under the fender where the tire goes), as oposed to under the chassis.

B..The emergency brake spring hook point pointing towards the differential will definitely stop after pulling forward when it hits the emergency brake lever arm; however, get a flat head screw driver & compress & push the emergency brake spring hook sideways & outwards, i.e., towards the backing plate & brake shoes, while simultaneously pulling the emergency brake spring hook forward with the hook tool.

C. Snap -- both of mine went in -- compressing the emergency brake spring upper hook sideways & outwards allows this emergency brake spring point to bypass the emergency brake lever with less friction & snap in place, forward of the lever. The emergency brake spring should place pressure on the lever towards the rear of the car.

Hope this helps.

(When providing & trying to install two (2) new emergency brake lever arms, two (2) new emergency brake toggle levers with new grease zerks, & two (2) new emergency brake lever bolts & half moon key sets, the two (2) new emergency brake lever arms would not fit because the two (2) new half moon keys were too wide & too high -- solution was to place keys in a vise-grip pliers, use a flat file, & remove a few thousanths of an inch from the sides & from the bottoms of the round parts of the two (2) half moon keys -- then everything fitted together just fine -- please expect to fine tune & "fit" lots of new replacement parts using Dremel Tools & files -- the Model A parts vendors are doing their best to provide quality parts, but they can only sell what they get from today's parts manufactirers).

[Alex Dragone]

Does anyone have a picture of what they are supposed to look like when they are installed on the car? I dont understand how they go on. My car had the orignal springs on it and bothe were broken so I dont have a referance. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

[wrndln]

There is a picture of one in the link below. It isn't a great picture, but you can see the part that goes over the lever to tell left from right. This spring is a bear to install. I ended up taking the emergency brake shaft loose to get the spring over the lever. I even made a hook tool, but still couldn't get over the lever until I disconnected the shaft pin to allow the lever to move back a little. Once I did that, I could with my hook tool, get it around the lever.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...+brake+springs

Rusty Nelson

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Alex Dragone

Does anyone have a picture of what they are supposed to look like when they are installed on the car? I dont understand how they go on. My car had the orignal springs on it and bothe were broken so I dont have a referance. If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

Are you looking for a picture of the springs that pull the band together, or a picture of the spring on the outside of the backing plate that pulls the lever back?

[Richard/Ca]

I fought with mine for ny on two weeks for I gave up. Every time I got the hook on the lever the bottom would pop out. So I decided to order some new ones from Mac's. When they got here I tried to put them on they went so easy I could not believe it. As I suspected the others I had the straight end was to short was not able to stay hook at the bottom. Richard/Ca PS when working on the emergency brake return spring. Pull the main brake lever towards the front the car so it will be out of way.

[Hook]

I have the same problem as Richard had, with the pointed end popping out. What is the pointed end supposed to hook to? One Barner said it should lodge in the crevice between the radius rod and backing plate. Mine pops out when I try to hook it over the Em brake lever.
Attached is a picture of the spring. Is the end too short?
Thanks,
Larry

[Mitch//pa]

one end wraps around the lever and the other rests on the brake actuating rod housing

[Hook]

Thanks. That's the picture I was looking for. The spring appears to be correct, just needed to know where it hooked to. Back at it tomorrow with suggestions on how to from Barners!

[QGolden]

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When I did mine I tried and tried to follow all the tips and tricks to install the springs, to no avail. I finally pulled the Backing Plates and did them on the bench. It was easy to pull the pin from the C, roll the spring around with a screwdriver using the post for leverage, and pop the spring over the arm.

[Afordman31]

I just installed a set today. I had the brake drums off, disconnected the (C) link where it pins to the shaft going thru the backer plate. Next put the spring on the boss where the shaft comes thru. I then installed the key and arm, put the bolt in and tightened it up. The service brake arm was in the way so disconnected the brake rod then tied the brake arm forward, this gave me room to work at getting the spring on the emergency arm. I used a tool with a hook on it ( it was made from a choke cable(knob and spring wire that go's into a choke cable). I then hooked the spring and pulled it up onto the arm. I took all of five minutes to do each side.

[redmodelt]

I say some blue words every time I put those cussed things on, that seems to help.

[jkeesey]

I was planning on shooting a video on how to install the springs today. I got the lights right and had my wife ready to film and we were hit with a bad storm knocking out the power and flooding 1' of water into my front parking lot. Not to mention the hail flying through all the open doors.

[mass A man]

I was wondering why I saved all those worn out rusty brake rods... Know I know. A few years back, my son in law formed this giant "fish hook" out of an old brake rod. It works SO NICE when winding up that darned spring. NO wires, no removing backing plates or pulling on things with vice grips. This is now in my special tool box of "Approved Ford Tools". Isn't he so clever?? I put a quarter near the tool because it appears I did photograph a little fish hook.

[QGolden]

Originally Posted by mass A man

I was wondering why I saved all those worn out rusty brake rods... Know I know. A few years back, my son in law formed this giant "fish hook" out of an old brake rod. It works SO NICE when winding up that darned spring. NO wires, no removing backing plates or pulling on things with vice grips. This is now in my special tool box of "Approved Ford Tools". Isn't he so clever?? I put a quarter near the tool because it appears I did photograph a little fish hook.

I'd like to see it in action.

[IndyA]

Originally Posted by wrndln

I know this has been covered extensively, but I have been trying to install the springs on the emergency brake levers. Unfortunately, the service brakes and emergency brakes are installed on the rearend and all I need to do to finish is install the spring(s). I made a hook tool and I can get the spring within about 3/8" from slipping around the lever. However the spring hangs up at this point and no matter how hard I pull the spring it wont move any farther. It appears the turns on the spring are getting tight on the housing. I bought the springs at Bratton's, so I believe it is not some cheap, non-fitting spring. I also know I have the correct spring on the correct backing plate (checked several picture of the springs for right and left). I know there is a way to install the spring(s) as the the backing plates are assembled, but I would rather not disassemble everything on the plates. Is there a way to just remove the cotter key and pin on the emergency brake shaft and connect the return spring(s) and rotate the shaft back and reinstall the pin and cotter key? Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, I have search the past posts and have not seen the spring binding problem like I have - just using the hook.
Rusty Nelson

The Two-man approach to loading the Parking Brake Return Spring

With the help of another pair of hands, I was able to load the Parking Brake Return Spring in my '29 Model A in about 12 minutes but only after spending hours reading (and trying to understand) other threads, and making a few tools. Other than removing the wheel (so a human head can get above the drum ) and removing the e-brake rod from the cross shaft and the lever, you don't have to remove anything else for this approach.

As mentioned many times the springs have a "left" and a "right". The bent leg of spring rests on the top of service brake cam housing and adjacent to the inner side of the backing plate and the end of that leg points toward the front of the car. The hooked end of the spring curls around emergency lever (above the pinch bolt assembly) with the sides of that hook opening to the rear of the car.

If you haven't done so, remove the old spring (if you had one) and the lever. The lever is held by a "pinch bolt" and a small crescent-shaped Woodruff key that nests in the top side of the shaft.

Two tools are made; a notched screwdriver blade (previously described by others). And a 8" wooden stick (approximately 1"x 3/4" or more) with several angled slots about an inch apart and 3" or 4" from either end of the stick which lead into the center of the stick and ending at a 1/8" diameter hole which runs thru the stick and which is roughly in the center of the stick - this arrangement allows you to change the locations of the cord without having to retie anything. Take a 10-12"" cord (1/8" in dia. or more) which will slip thru the slot and nest in the hole with knots tied in three of four locations along the string and an inch or so apart. These knots serve as an anchor to various string lengths. At one end of the string tie a loop about the diameter of a penny. I will attempt to include a photo of the "tools".

One person gets under the car to handle the notched screw driver... the other "installer" is beside the drum with their head between the top of the drum and the upper inner side of the fender well and mans the looped string and stick.

Place the Return Spring (with no tension on the spring) over the Lever Arm shaft (with the bent spring arm resting in it's designated spot) then place the lever arm on the lever shaft and engaged with the Woodruff Key. Do not attach the Pinch Bolt. The notched screwdriver then raises the hooked arm above the pinch bolt hole in the lever and held in that position while the pinch bolt is then screwed tight against the toggle lever shaft. The string loop is then placed in the spring hook and the screwdriver pushes the hooked end of the spring straight up as far as possible while at the same time the "hands" holding the looped cord is pulling the spring hook toward the front of the car.

Usually, the leg of the hook will catch on the Lever and a little jar with a screw driver will center the spring hook with the lever arm. Don't be surprised that you'll have to cut the string loop... (notice the photo) it's captured between the spring and toggle lever. Hope this helps another mechanic ???

[Scotty H]

Hey guys question about emergency brake 1928 tudor . My brake when engaged you can still push the car but its stops instantly when let go ? So if that is not suppose to happen what does that indicate ? My driving brakes are second to none and stop on a dime . Any ideas thank you .

[larrys40]

Originally Posted by Tom from Drippin'

If we are talking about the return springs on the outside of the backing plate...I have found it's easiest to make a loop of machinest wire, place a piece if broom handle or large dowel through the loop, twist one end of the loop tight to the dowel and hook the other end of the loop on the spring. Then you can pull the spring into position using the dowel as a handle, and cut the wire and pull it out after the spring is hooked. ..... NOTE: The springs are handed..right and left...they are NOT interchangeable!

I do as Tom said if the drum is on.. and sometimes disconnect the C link if the drum is off. I use an old brake clutch pedal shaft with heavy mechanics wire and a loop at the other end twisted to go over the spring. I snake it through the front by the brake shaft and down to loop it. I pull it around.. sometimes a screwdriver with a v split in it helps as a pusher.
I'm use to doing them so it goes pretty quick.

Larry Shepard

[Beauford]

I was just putting mine back on after having to sand down the new brake linings. This time the spring gave out before me. Nothing like paying more for shipping than a stupid spring. I will wait till something else needs to be ordered....always something with this project.

[wbs]

hello- i am inexperienced but recently replaced some springs and basically used mr chauvins excellent note but i thought i would make a few suggestions whi9ch helped me-
1 take off wheel
2remove lever of course but leave it off after inserting spring
3mark where the key groove is on lever hub
4pull service brake rod all the way fwd gives you more working room
5 notice which side of hub is 'in' and which side is out before removing lever
6 put lasso loop over the lever side of the spring
7 put the lever on loosely
8 pull lasso fwd as you slip lever on shaft and catch the spring clip on lever- takes very little force to slip spring clip over lever front
9 rotate hub slihgtly to find the half moon key
10 if hub wont go on all way, make sure of spring loops is not blocking- if so use screw driver to move loop out of way

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by wbs

hello- i am inexperienced but recently replaced some springs and basically used mr chauvins excellent note but i thought i would make a few suggestions whi9ch helped me-
1 take off wheel
2remove lever of course but leave it off after inserting spring
3mark where the key groove is on lever hub
4pull service brake rod all the way fwd gives you more working room
5 notice which side of hub is 'in' and which side is out before removing lever
6 put lasso loop over the lever side of the spring
7 put the lever on loosely
8 pull lasso fwd as you slip lever on shaft and catch the spring clip on lever- takes very little force to slip spring clip over lever front
9 rotate hub slihgtly to find the half moon key
10 if hub wont go on all way, make sure of spring loops is not blocking- if so use screw driver to move loop out of way

Did mine recently too. Those dang things are really not for the faint of heart. "The book" says to assemble the backing plates on the workbench then attach to the Axle.

There was just no acrobatics nor positioning of the levers, prying with anything handy or cuss words that would allow me to put an assembled unit on the axle.

The alternative was to put the backing plate on the axle without the e-brake carrier and assemble the e-brake while on the car. I got lots of practice picking the woodruff keys off the floor and a lot of tries positioning the illustrious spring.

The book (Les Andrews) makes it sound so easy. I would like to see a video of how to get a backing plate with both levers on the dang axle.

I did learn early in the process to temporarily move the service brake lever out of the way.

[IndyA]

Well, here's a fresh idea ..... you first have to disconnect all the linkage (so pull the drum!) Take two small pulleys which will swivel on their eye and connect one end of a rope to the rear fender support brace; put the first pulley on the running board support brace and a second pulley with a loop (use a material that you can later cut with a knife) on the the spring-end - run the road thru the running board pulley, then the pulley at the wheel; get a friend to pull the rope (toward the front of the car) while you lay underneath the wheel with a notched screw driver to guide the spring into its seat.

This method uses the mechanical advantage gained by using two pulleys --- worked for me after spending hours using other methods.

Good Luck...

[QGolden]

Originally Posted by IndyA

Well, here's a fresh idea ..... ....
This method uses the mechanical advantage gained by using two pulleys --- worked for me after spending hours using other methods.

Good Luck...

Sound plausible, but I'd like to see a video!

[stengel]

Just found this ,and Iam a new guy to this model a hobby .Would it be possible to get a pic of the springs installed ? I cannot make out the orientation of the end of the spring location THANKS A BUNCH

[DBrer]

I installed mine in just a few minutes. I took nothing loose. I took a small strong cord about 3' long, tied a loop in both ends. I have a small come along (harbor freight) and hook one end of the cord to the spring and run the cord over the housing right next to the backing plate. I then hook the other end of the cord to the hook of the come along. I hooked the other end of the come along to the forward bracket of the running board. used the come along to pull on the spring and the spring came right around to where its supposed to hook up. used a screw driver to help seat the spring. if the cord is pinched just cut it loose. it was very easy was to do. I hope this makes sense. Don

[J Franklin]

I do the same minus the come along. I just use my hand and pull, takes no time at all.