rear wheel

[bobsmanstuff]

On my 1930 pickup I'm in the process of taking the 16'' spoke wheels off and putting the 19'' wheels on. I have all the nuts loose but on the rear passenger side I can't get them loose. I don't want to snap them so my question is, are the opposite thread on the right rear. Thanks for any help you can give.

[JBill]

No. No reason for it. You're more likely to break the studs loose from the hub than snap them off. Actually, snapping them off would be better! If you break them loose, they just spin inside the hub. Then there's real trouble. I'd work on one with heat and see if that helps. I'm sure others will have better suggestions. Good luck.

[Bob Bidonde]

If the lug nuts are the Model A domed type, try this:
>Drill a 0.19 hole in the dome of the lug nut thru to the stud;
>Fill the lug nut with a penetration oil;
>Put penetrating oil into the taper of the lug nut (between nut & wheel);

>Wack the lug nut with a 3-lb hammer a few times;
>Allow some time for the oil to penetrate the threads.

[Purdy Swoft]

A quick jerk with a large 4 way lug wrench usually works for me . in worse cases if you can tighten the lug nut or any nut or bolt the least little bit , the nut will usually back righjt off

[katy]

Try a burp (impact) gun.

[Joe K]

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Originally Posted by katy

Try a burp (impact) gun.

I might try "quick heat" on the nut (hard flame directly applied to the nut at the hot flame cone) - and the impact gun.

Gotta move fast for this one though. You're trying to heat ONLY the nut and not have it "soak through" to the stud.

And I would consider the nuts "junque" afterwards.

Joe K

[Badpuppy]

I think only AA duallys had LH threads on the left side. in any case, they should be marked "L" or "R" if they're different.

[bobsmanstuff]

The studs on the passenger rear have the letter L stamped on the end of them. I don't have an impact wrench but soaked them plus put heat on one or two and still no luck. They are a 16'' wheel so you really can't get down inside otherwise I'd use a nut breaker.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by bobsmanstuff

The studs on the passenger rear have the letter L stamped on the end of them. I don't have an impact wrench but soaked them plus put heat on one or two and still no luck. They are a 16'' wheel so you really can't get down inside otherwise I'd use a nut breaker.

The letter L sure sounds like they are left hand threads. A previous owner (can you still contact the previous owner?) or mechanic may have been used to other brands of cars and installed a left hand thread stud.

Charlie Stephens

[katy]

Are they domed Model A type nuts? Or regular wheel nuts w/a flat end on them?
If'n they're not domed Model A type nuts nuts I would suspect that they are left hand thread. If'n they are the regular type nuts is there any way you can get a good look at the part of the stud that is sticking out above the nut, that is if there is any sticking out above the nut.

[bobsmanstuff]

I can't really see if it's domed or not. There is a big washer behind it and not on the other three. I can see just a little thread no the stud.

[bobsmanstuff]

If they are the wrong studs' how hard are they to change?

[bobsmanstuff]

Sorry, they are flat and not domed.

[Purdy Swoft]

You might could use a nut splitter , being as there is a big washer behind the nut . In worse cases I've sometimes had to resort to using a cold chisel and hammer . It sounds like an attempt at some point was made to use the lug stud made for use with thicker cast iron brake drums . The shoulder on these studs rise too far above the original drums for the lug nut to tighten . The use of a washer under the nut would sorta account for this .

[bobsmanstuff]

On the 16'' wheel the lug nuts sit back farther so I can't use a splitter. I might try again to see if they are backward threads and maybe have to try a chisel. It's amazing that something that small can be such a big headache. Thanks

[Joe K]

It is possible to "wash" the nut off using an oxyacetylene torch. I've done it - although this is one of those exercises where just a leetle too much ruins the bolt.

Or - similarly - use a grinder and grind a big "flat" on one side until you can see the bolt thread. You'll cut into the bolt thread a tad - but 90 percent of the thread will still be there and "opening" the thread up like that opens up more of the thread to PB Blaster/oil of wintergreen/your penetrating oil of choice. Plus the action of grinding a flat on the nut does the heat thing quite well.

A bit more control in grinding.

Joe K

[bobsmanstuff]

I appreciate the suggestions but like I mentioned before they sit back in and there is no room for a nut breaker or grinders.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by bobsmanstuff

If they are the wrong studs' how hard are they to change?

They are difficult to change them with a 20 ton press and knowing what you are doing. Be sure to find someone with a 20 ton press and the knowledge of what to do based on having done it before. Try asking around at local clubs for tat person.

Charlie Stephens

[ModelAMike1930]

Before you go doing a lot of stuff try soaking them overnight with penetrating oil it worked for me.

[Railcarmover]

A big washer behind the lugnut? sounds like a washer to make up for a buggered wheel hole.