1936 steering wheel removal

[Blastfromthepast]

I found an interesting way to remove a steering wheel. After removing the light and horn button take a 2 1/4 exhaust pipe clamp and place it under the steering wheel where the tube meets the wheel. Use a wheel puller to hold onto the clamp so you don’t damage the steering wheel. Just keep tightening up and you should be able to pop the steering wheel off with minimal damage.
You may need some configuration adapting the clamp so the puller is able to be positioned.

[JM 35 Sedan]

If it's a good reusable steering wheel, you would want to protect the bottom area of hub. Also, the top of steering shaft and threads need protecting.

[Admiral]

Last year when I installed a 1937 steering box in my '36 sedan I removed the steering wheel without a puller. My method was unorthodox and may not work in applications where the tapered surfaces are heavily corroded, but it did the job for me without any damage or problems.

After loosening the steering-box bracket bolts, unbolting the column drop from the dashboard and removing the horn/lightswitch assembly, I loosened the steering-wheel nut a couple turns. Then, with the steering wheel resting on my lap, I applied pressure on the back of the steering-wheel hub, pulling it towards myself with one hand. Next, I took a brass hammer and carefully but firmly started tapping on the loosened nut. After about half a dozen hits the wheel was free.

This worked for me but as always, you mileage WILL vary!

[Steve in Denver]

Admiral,
Just curious, when you installed the '37 box, did you have to remove the motor or at least the exhaust manifold?


I have Fenton Headers on an 8BA block and there is only about an 1/8 inch clearance between the header and the steering box.
Steve in Denver

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Blastfromthepast

I found an interesting way to remove a steering wheel. After removing the light and horn button take a 2 1/4 exhaust pipe clamp and place it under the steering wheel where the tube meets the wheel. Use a wheel puller to hold onto the clamp so you don’t damage the steering wheel. Just keep tightening up and you should be able to pop the steering wheel off with minimal damage.
You may need some configuration adapting the clamp so the puller is able to be positioned.

How do you describe minimal damage? I think the objective would be to remove the wheel with NO damage.

[Admiral]

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Originally Posted by Steve Kennedy

Admiral,
Just curious, when you installed the '37 box, did you have to remove the motor or at least the exhaust manifold?

I have Fenton Headers on an 8BA block and there is only about an 1/8 inch clearance between the header and the steering box.
Steve in Denver

No, sir. The engine and exhaust manifold stayed in place, though I'm running a set of Red's headers on the car. I'm pretty sure they clear the steering box by a lot more than an eighth of an inch. The biggest issue installing the '37 box was swapping in a new mounting bracket. That was a pain in the backside!

[Blastfromthepast]

What I mean of minimal damage is maybe some scratches if any.
It beats hitting it with a hammer, dropping the steering tube looking for a gap to
Grab on with the puller etc...
Don’t knock it if you haven’t tried it.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Blastfromthepast

What I mean of minimal damage is maybe some scratches if any.
It beats hitting it with a hammer, dropping the steering tube looking for a gap to
Grab on with the puller etc...
Don’t knock it if you haven’t tried it.

I didn't knock it. but everyone has a different opinion of "minimal damage".

[blucar]

Removing a banjo type s-wheel in a '36-39 Ford is a whole different game than removing a conventional wheel. It does not take much pressure on the banjo spokes to loosen them in the wheel hub, then the steering wheel is junk.
The clearance between a '37-40 steering gear box in a '36 is minimal, less than a 1/4". A '37-40 frame mount is required with a '40 pitman, #21-A 3590-3 015.

[deuce_roadster]

Recently (and maybe still) there is a KRW steering wheel puller in the swap meet section by member whygoby. I have one of these and if anyone is really concerned about their wheel, you should have this. It is for the earlier wheels that are tapered where it comes down to meet the tube. Probably 39 and earlier. Since I have 2 32s and a 33 I value this thing greatly. (my 32 5w has a 37 banjo wheel)

[JSeery]

...

[Andy]

I used a big bearing separator from HF to remove the wheel on my 32. It went under the wheel with rags for cushion. A two jaw puller removed the wheel many times without any damage.

[cas3]

yeah, me too i always find a way, but the kr wilson tool is the cats ass

[skidmarks]

The one I have is a Snap on made for early cars of all makes. It's like the KR WILSON but it comes apart and lays in a metal box.
They turn up for sale from time to time.

I also got the axle perch bolt press kit they made also. Damage free removal

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by skidmarks

The one I have is a Snap on made for early cars of all makes. It's like the KR WILSON but it comes apart and lays in a metal box.
They turn up for sale from time to time.

I also got the axle perch bolt press kit they made also. Damage free removal

I also have the perch bolt press kit. That thing will remove even the most stubborn perches. Now on the hunt for the steering wheel remover.