Going 12 VOLT ...........

[coee]

would like to know what parts to go 12 volt ...

Do I need a differant pulley ??
I know all the light stuff

a list would great thanks

[Mike V. Florida]

If you really think you have to, and there is no real reason to do so;

This is from Kens Garage
Battery

Any good 12 Volt battery will do as long as it will fit your battery box and hold down. I selected a 72 month, 675 cranking amp, universal battery.

Generator

I installed a GM 63 Amp Alternator with an internal self exciting voltage regulator. The hook up is one wire, the same as the existing generator. You will need to make two small brackets to mount the alternator or you can use two shackle bars and drill out for the proper size bolts. An alternator pulley can be purchased from your friendly Model A parts supplier.

Starter

No modifications are necessary to the starter. Just touch the pedal and enjoy really fast starts.

Ammeter

I changed the standard 20 amp ammeter to a 30 amp ammeter as an alternator will peg the standard meter. You must reverse the leads on the ammeter due to the change in polarity of the battery. Your neighborhood Model A parts supplier carries the 30 amp ammeter.

Headlights

Since I installed an alternator I opted to go all the way for headlights and convert to Halogen bulbs. The conversion is relatively easy. You can purchase a kit to modify your existing reflectors or you can purchase new reflectors with the Halogen sockets installed. You must install an alternator to successfully operate Halogen bulbs.
6 Volt kits are available. What a pleasure to be able to really see while driving at night.

Ignition

You could install a 12 volt coil and a resistor to reduce the voltage to the points.
I elected to install a PerTronix IGNITOR electronic ignition system. This is an extremely easy system to install as it fits entirely inside the distributor; no outside boxes are required. Kits are available for the standard Model A or B, early V8, and Mallory distributors. Both 6 and 12 kits are available.
Kits are furnished with a new coil as the correct coil resistance is very important for proper operation. Kits are distributed by: Remund Ignitions, Inc.
P.O. Box 857
Lemon Grove, CA 91946-0857
(619)460-3620

Horn

Getting the horn to work properly was the most perplexing part of the conversion. I tried several "voltage reducers" from the local parts stores but none could handle the current demands of the Model A horn. I finally purchased a 0 to 2 Ohm variable power resistor with a 100 watt rating from an electronics supply house. I selected a variable resistor in order to optimize the voltage to the horn.
The resistor I purchased was am Ohmite D100K2RO ($15.87) with two Type 12 brackets ($0.55 ea.) (Newark stock nos. 13F671 & (2) 13F099) from:
Newark Electronics
1-800-463-9275
Branch offices of Newark are located throughout the United States. Minimum order is $25.00. An alternate approach would be to puchase a 12 volt horn.

Light Bulbs

The following bulbs can be used with a 12 volt system: Cowl, Tail, and Dash Lights - #89, 6 cp
Dome Light - #67/97, 4 cp
Stop Lights - #1156/10, 32 cp

Turn Signals

If you have a Signal-Stat turn signal it will be necessary to change the flasher to a Signal-Stat #180 and the bulb to a #1445.

[coee]

Thanks so much

[Kurt in NJ]

I know that this statement is not true--"You must install an alternator to successfully operate Halogen bulbs. "
I have had Halogen bulbs for the last 10 years (direct fit bulbs)and my 14 year old battery has only had the original 6V generator to charge it, 50% of my driving is with the headlights on, I never charge my battery other than driving (no tender).

I have seen mentioned that a waterpump with "improved" bearings is needed with an alternator because of the smaller pulley requiring more belt tension to prevent slipping ---and I know from looking at cars with alternators that belt slipping on the pulley is a problem ---if light finger pressure on the alt fan can move the pulley on the belt it is slipping and will cause reduced output and short belt life

another thing that is needed with a 1 wire alt is a method of disconnecting the battery when stored because the alt always uses electric to keep it ready to charge.

I like my reliable 6V system ---it has always worked, cranked fast, and never broke ---no starter drive problems, no belt wear problems and I still have the original april 31 generator and starter.

[vtwinsideways]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

another thing that is needed with a 1 wire alt is a method of disconnecting the battery when stored because the alt always uses electric to keep it ready to charge.

Alternators do not drain the battery. Clocks, radios and phone chargers left plugged in- yes. Alternators- no. I regularly leave my battery cables hooked up all winter long, just to find the battery still fully charged on my A in the Spring. It is true that alternators require a small amount of voltage to begin charging, however this is only while rotating. Not while they sit. Luke

[Big D]

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The first list was nice and included much detail... I would disagree on the

"No modifications are necessary to the starter"... It will last for a while and if not run much maybe several years, but using twice the voltage on the coil field and throw out is not a good idea. If you don't have any parts yet, several suppliers have kits with all needed items. ALL include either a voltage reducer or new coil fields for most devices, including the starter. Good luck with whichever path you chose.

D

[Pa Joe]

Brattons has a voltage reducer that is small enough to fit inside the back of the horn. It is made for this and it works well. Much better than the big clunky one that some vendors sell that mounts on the frame. (cheaper to) I suggest a modern starter drive for 12V. Snyders has them (24.95) and mine workes well. Hope this helps.

[Stan/MO.]

A six volt starter will work on a twelve volt system...as lone as everything is tuned as it should be. The only problem would be if you had to crank the starter for an extended period of time. I've run a twelve volt system with a six volt starter many times with no problems. Just my experience.

[Jason in TX]

Originally Posted by Pa Joe

Brattons has a voltage reducer that is small enough to fit inside the back of the horn. It is made for this and it works well.

Just an FYI - I've used both. They both did work well, but the small one that fits inside the horn, the plastic melted off the resister because it got so hot. It still worked fine, but just letting you know that those little suckers get pretty hot.

The big clunky one is also ok, as long as your alternator is putting out power. If the needle is not on the positive side of the ammeter, your horn sounds like a dying duck.