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Bored&Stroked · 10-13-2015, 08:51 AM

Stock Henry Studs: If you're just rebuilding a stock engine, what you have works just fine. It should not be difficult to remove the nuts - but don't damage the studs themselves. If you don't have the tools to correctly hold the stud, don't just throw it in a vice and gall it all up - have the machine shop do it.

Studs versus Bolts: I prefer to always use studs - as you'll be using the fine threaded end to tighten up the nuts and set the torque . . . which tends to give more accurate readings than the coarse threads in the block.

It is actually NOT a good idea to change the stock studs to ARP - unless you're going to have the main crank bore checked . . . as the torque for new/different studs can influence the roundness of the bearing bore. Normally it should NOT be an issue, but it is something that I always have checked when I'm messing around with any new/different parts in the mains area.

10-13-2015, 08:51 AM	#180
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,068	Re: 59 AB engine rebuild Stock Henry Studs: If you're just rebuilding a stock engine, what you have works just fine. It should not be difficult to remove the nuts - but don't damage the studs themselves. If you don't have the tools to correctly hold the stud, don't just throw it in a vice and gall it all up - have the machine shop do it. Studs versus Bolts: I prefer to always use studs - as you'll be using the fine threaded end to tighten up the nuts and set the torque . . . which tends to give more accurate readings than the coarse threads in the block. It is actually NOT a good idea to change the stock studs to ARP - unless you're going to have the main crank bore checked . . . as the torque for new/different studs can influence the roundness of the bearing bore. Normally it should NOT be an issue, but it is something that I always have checked when I'm messing around with any new/different parts in the mains area.