The Ford Barn - View Single Post - Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft

Joe K · 06-01-2014, 06:14 AM

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Also, one has to be VERY careful to "recreate" the steering shaft as they found it. With at least 3 different lengths of Gemmer/Ford shafts (and corresponding light switches) one has to get it EXACTLY right.

The aftermarket shafts are not "made to length" and will require pressing on the worm to lesser or greater degrees to do this.

Vince Falter has a MOST EXCELLENT chart showing the three different kinds of Gemmer (2 tooth) steering shafts/worm assemblies. See http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/stee...twormchart.htm But your best guidance would be to carefully measure what you have now and duplicate it.

I have done removal of the worm by inserting the entire steering shaft in a 5' piece of 1" pipe (with the worm remaining exposed at the upper end) and then smartly "thumping" the entire assembly down at one end on a concrete floor. Inertia carries the shaft out of the worm.

Putting back I have yet to do and have speculated on use of a stout clamp to hold the steering shaft just below where the worm is applied (and get past any "buckling" of the thin steering shaft when held end for end.) But the "thread the end" method shown in the link above has much to recommend - and when it is all assembled who can tell how the steering shaft was modified?

I might use fine (SAE) thread on the "puller inner" though. Check your shaft hole size to see if you have at least 75 percent thread form engagement (diametrially.)

Joe K

06-01-2014, 06:14 AM	#5
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: Pressing steering worm upper race to shaft Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Also, one has to be VERY careful to "recreate" the steering shaft as they found it. With at least 3 different lengths of Gemmer/Ford shafts (and corresponding light switches) one has to get it EXACTLY right. The aftermarket shafts are not "made to length" and will require pressing on the worm to lesser or greater degrees to do this. Vince Falter has a MOST EXCELLENT chart showing the three different kinds of Gemmer (2 tooth) steering shafts/worm assemblies. See http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/stee...twormchart.htm But your best guidance would be to carefully measure what you have now and duplicate it. I have done removal of the worm by inserting the entire steering shaft in a 5' piece of 1" pipe (with the worm remaining exposed at the upper end) and then smartly "thumping" the entire assembly down at one end on a concrete floor. Inertia carries the shaft out of the worm. Putting back I have yet to do and have speculated on use of a stout clamp to hold the steering shaft just below where the worm is applied (and get past any "buckling" of the thin steering shaft when held end for end.) But the "thread the end" method shown in the link above has much to recommend - and when it is all assembled who can tell how the steering shaft was modified? I might use fine (SAE) thread on the "puller inner" though. Check your shaft hole size to see if you have at least 75 percent thread form engagement (diametrially.) Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.