[DHZIEMAN]

Originally Posted by M2M

I did finally get the quail on; what I was doing wrong was trying to gently twist it into place rather than just put it in place then tighten the screws

...BUT even with the special o ring the suppliers sell to stop it leaking it still leaks at 45+mph the only thing left to try is to put some Right Stuff below where the gasket/o-ring sits for a tighter fit...I searched the forum and this has worked for others. In the meantime I purchased a normal radiator cap which doesn't leak at any speed.

I wish they sold non-locking moto-meters like they do for the Model T. With those the anti-theft system is to unscrew it and take it with you...and they don't leak. I can foresee a thief destroying a Model A quail or moto-meter and the radiator neck trying to steal it...I love the looks of the quail but I too may decide to sell it.

I put a post up on making a moto-meter cap from buying two parts from two suppliers. I have cut and pasted it here! I had a similar problem first off with pot metal caps that look great, don't quite fit right and then ya gotta grind or file part of the coating off to get them to fit right, then they leak (and Chorrode). What follows is what I did! I threw all the other pot metal stuff in the trash! What I did follows:

Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Sunrise Beach, Mo
Posts: 390
Default Re: Motometer Radiator cap for 1930 Model A
TA DA! After looking and looking, any cap sold that has a thermometer in it for a 1930 Model A seems to be Pot Metal!!!! After much consternation, and some thought, I purchased the cheapest stainless steel cap to fit a 1930 Model A, then purchased a mini motor meter from Macs, I center punched the rivet on the inside of the radiator cap and kept increasing from 1/8 up to 9/16th drill bits to drill a center hole in the cap. I got out the part that holds the cap to the radiator, set it aside, along with the gaskets and brass center plate and started working on getting the hole in the SS radiator cap to be 9/16 without burrs. I then Drilled out the part that holds the radiator cap to the radiator and did the same thing. (9/16ths with no burrs). The tricky part of all this is U really need a drill press and need to really hold on to keep drilling centered on the cap and the cap hold down. If that can be accomplished the rest of the effort is assembly and clocking the motor meter to be properly aligned when the cap is tightened is simply aggravating but once done and the brass nut on the motor meter is tightened and the cap with motor- meter installed, you have two metals that may interact BUT, they are not pot metal and are not going to corrode so bad that eventually crap falls in the radiator. The only part compatibility issue that I can think of might occur, is I have an aftermarket radiator. not sure if the neck on originals is high enough to allow the cap to clear the shroud. If anyone wants pictures, I would be happy to furnish. The one finished installed picture is on my original post.