View Single Post
Old 11-29-2020, 05:00 PM   #14
Daves55Sedan
Senior Member
 
Daves55Sedan's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granite City, Illinois
Posts: 3,008
Default Re: I’m getting close to trying to start my 1956 bird after a lonnnnng ordeall

Tell ya what! If you cant get the choke side of that tube to work out for you, you can keep the other side hooked up and put that bolt back in the tube on the choke side (but get rid of that star-washer on the bolt and replace with a flat-washer). Snug up the bolt so it wont fall out, it doesn't need any torque at all.
Now, get one of those accessory outboard style exhaust manifold mounted choke heat-tube/capture/clamp assemblies if you can find one. Clamp the capture housing to the exhaust manifold and route the copper tubing from the capture housing to the choke housing (bend tubing as required). Then hook up the fitting that clamps the copper tubing to the choke housing.
Note: those aftermarket choke heat tube assemblies are cheap garbage and get real ugly after a while with heavy rust. You may want to remove the capture housing from the copper tube and use Hi-heat primer, then a good quality hi-temperature exhaust manifold enamel (at least 1000 degrees) on both sides of the capture housing. Use a stainless steel worm-gear clamp to attach the assembly to the exhaust manifold. That way, you can re-use what you have and not need to take the intake manifold back off the heads, ruining your gaskets.
BTW, that is the wrong application for a star-washer on that plug-bolt. A star-washer is used to insure electrical continuity, but there may be a small air gap all around that washer (which you do not want). You want to hold the heat inside the tube.
Daves55Sedan is offline   Reply With Quote