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H. L. Chauvin · 01-23-2014, 01:53 AM

Hi Sid,

Just one (1) experience & maybe caution.

1. Had an original steering wheel with the normal cracks, so while rebuilding my 1930 (2) tooth steering with all new parts including new steering rod & new worm gear, rather than trying to repair steering wheel cracks, (because of time restraints), just bought a "new" steering wheel & installed it immediately prior to my son's wedding.

2. Immediately noticed that when tightened all the way down on the "new" keyed conical end of the "new" steering rod with the steering wheel nut, the bottom of the "new" steering wheel was slightly rubbing on the top of the circular lip of the metal spark/throttle cup such that if securely tightened, it would take a 48" long crow bar to turn the steering wheel just to make a simple right or left turn -- far too embarrassing to drive out of the church yard manipulating my long 1890's blacksmith's crow bar with a bride & groom in the back seat .......... especially with my wife sitting in the passenger seat.

3. So I got the "new" steering wheel snug enough with the key engaged; however, I could shake the outer perimeter of the steering wheel up & down about 1/16" which did not bother me -- besides, no one else knew & I was not about to brag about it.

4. Some time after the wedding, I removed the "new" steering wheel, & with a Dremel tool with a bullet shaped grinder I cut a circular perimeter groove about 1/8" deep, reinstalled the steering wheel, re-tightened the nut & all is OK.

5. The minute a new steering wheel is installed, one can immediately tell "if" cutting a small rear circular groove in it is in order -- other than that, & fine trimming as Mr. Wesenberg describes above is in order.

6. Please grab your girlfriend, hug her, kiss her, & thank her for choosing such a wonderful Christmas present.

Hope this really helps your project -- & especially for next year's Model A Christmas present.

01-23-2014, 01:53 AM	#3
H. L. Chauvin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,179	Re: new steering wheel Hi Sid, Just one (1) experience & maybe caution. 1. Had an original steering wheel with the normal cracks, so while rebuilding my 1930 (2) tooth steering with all new parts including new steering rod & new worm gear, rather than trying to repair steering wheel cracks, (because of time restraints), just bought a "new" steering wheel & installed it immediately prior to my son's wedding. 2. Immediately noticed that when tightened all the way down on the "new" keyed conical end of the "new" steering rod with the steering wheel nut, the bottom of the "new" steering wheel was slightly rubbing on the top of the circular lip of the metal spark/throttle cup such that if securely tightened, it would take a 48" long crow bar to turn the steering wheel just to make a simple right or left turn -- far too embarrassing to drive out of the church yard manipulating my long 1890's blacksmith's crow bar with a bride & groom in the back seat .......... especially with my wife sitting in the passenger seat. 3. So I got the "new" steering wheel snug enough with the key engaged; however, I could shake the outer perimeter of the steering wheel up & down about 1/16" which did not bother me -- besides, no one else knew & I was not about to brag about it. 4. Some time after the wedding, I removed the "new" steering wheel, & with a Dremel tool with a bullet shaped grinder I cut a circular perimeter groove about 1/8" deep, reinstalled the steering wheel, re-tightened the nut & all is OK. 5. The minute a new steering wheel is installed, one can immediately tell "if" cutting a small rear circular groove in it is in order -- other than that, & fine trimming as Mr. Wesenberg describes above is in order. 6. Please grab your girlfriend, hug her, kiss her, & thank her for choosing such a wonderful Christmas present. Hope this really helps your project -- & especially for next year's Model A Christmas present.