[Offy 220]

Originally Posted by Pete

First, I would like to say, it is impossible to get a precision valve job with split guides and mushroom stem valves.

There are several methods to secure the guides in the block. It doesn't matter as long as they are pressed in with .001 press.
I make solid bronze guides from bar stock. I have copper plated the OD's, I have knurled the OD's and glued them in. All worked fine.
I have used Winona bronze inserts. They work fine and are easy to install.

You will need a valve grinder to do the valves but I adjust the stems in the lathe. It has a DRO. It is faster for me.
If I get a valve that is short, and is stainless, I either substitute a taller lifter or TIG weld it up with 345 rod.
If the valve is titanium, I substitute for a taller lifter. In one extreme case I used a lash cap.
As a side note, I tried welding titanium valve stems and it was successful but it was no fun what with all of the extra precautions and gas fixtures required.

Over the years, I have tried many of the tool and fixture "quick/easy" methods
of measuring the amount to cut the stems but always end up with "cut and try". If you REALLY enjoy building a fast engine and are willing to learn, you will get much more pleasure from doing this the way that causes you NO stress.
You just have to develop a "feel" for clearances.
Your results WILL vary.
I won't say a Caveman can do it but I bet I could teach him in 3 lessons....

---Sent from my Western Electric crank phone on the kitchen wall, using Crankatalk.app---

Pete / Dale,
Here's a photo of an Offenhauser valve stem "Filing block" I have used setting valve lash [clearance] on a 220. The one on the left is adjustable and the one on the right is fixed. Offenhauser used a radiused "cup" over the top of the valve stem and with four valves per cylinder it can be very time consuming.