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Originally Posted by Dave in MN
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Plus 1 on Dave. You may want to shim that drive shaft pinion position to get proper mating with the ring gear. I would expect to remove the torque tube if you've changed any of the moving parts in a differential.
And don't forget Ford made a MAJOR revision to the differential carrier dimensions during production. You can shim here too to compensate. Tom tells how.
Axle shaft seals CAN be installed without removing the bearing races (which are closer to the banjo.) But why bother? A long punch or even a 3' 3/8" steel rod can "walk" the race out of the trumpet. And you tap new ones in similarly (but gently.) If you're apart on the rear end replace anything suspect that you can afford. I prefer Timken 28156s but AutoZone and NAPA has aftermarket bearings and races for about half the money. And, except for proven performance from Timken, there isn't that much difference quality wise between ISO conforming bearings.
You'll need "layout die." I like black magic marker myself (it lays down in a thinner coat.)
Gosh. I wish I was there - this sounds like FUN!
Joe K