Quote:
Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked
RE: Since your going to have to use a dial indicator anyway, to get accurate readings, why not use it to set TDC?
The reason that many advocate for the positive stop method of finding TDC is due to the amount of piston dwell (in crankshaft degrees) at TDC. In other words, there are a few degrees of rotation where the dial indicator doesn't show movement. One could think they are at TDC with the crank actually being in a slightly different position than the dial indicator shows. So, this causes your TDC "pointer" to be off just a bit.
You can always use BOTH methods - so that your cross-validate one against the other . . . to achieve your final pointer setting.
When I use a dial indicator only, I have to visually pay attention to the "before/after" movement of the crank to figure out where TDC is. Hopefully I'm making some sense . . .
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It's true, that when you get very close to TDC, the indicator slows way down but, at .100, it's still moving at a rate that you can see. If your uncomfortable, at .100, you can use any distance, such as .300 or even .500. The number you pick, doesn't make any difference, it only has to be used on both sides of TDC. The slower the indicator moves, the easier it is to stop it at the distance that you want.
Also, you don't have to set up a stop, when using the above method but, you still do, have to set up a indicator to check the timing. One less tool and thing to do, plus a more accurate TDC setting.
Regarding checking all cylinders for timing, I haven't heard of anyone doing that. For the layman, by the time that you've done #1, your probably not interested in doing others but, for the ambitious, it would be good to check #4 in the firing order.