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Mikeinnj · 02-06-2017, 04:50 PM

This is from an 06/28/10 entry by Marco Tahtaras regarding his riveting process:

"The cross members were riveted with 1/4" rivets. You'll find that the the holes to be riveted measure almost 5/16" (and were intended to be). The shank of the rivet MUST swell to fill the hole to be effective over the long term. For this reason it is difficult if not impossible to tighten a loose rivet. You can tighten the "set", but not swell the center.

For bucking we start with a ready made 8" bucking bar with the proper recess for the rivet head. We then cut the bar short enough to fit within the frame rail. This short bar is then welded along the side to a heavy piece of steel forming an off-set bar that extends around the edge of the rail. The bucking bar should be at least 3-4 lb.., but 5 lb.. is better.

For setting the rivet we use an air chisel or air hammer. I've been told they are commonly available in short stroke and long stroke versions and I use the long stroke or long barrel version. I think way too much is made of the type of air hammer as the rivets swell like butter when the shank is properly heated. The setting tool for the air hammer is matched to the rivet size similar to the bucking bar.

The riveting requires two people in almost all cases. The first person holds the rivet by the head with pliers while the second person heats the rivet with a torch. The rivets are heated red from the middle first, then towards the outer end.

Next, while the first person slips the rivet into the hole and backs it with the bucking tool, the second person sets down the torch, picks up the air hammer and proceeds to rivet.

The result is a rivet that completely fills the hole as it should. The process requires approximate 30 seconds per rivet."

02-06-2017, 04:50 PM	#36
Mikeinnj Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northern New Jersey Posts: 1,262	Re: Looking for a new Pickup Bed This is from an 06/28/10 entry by Marco Tahtaras regarding his riveting process: "The cross members were riveted with 1/4" rivets. You'll find that the the holes to be riveted measure almost 5/16" (and were intended to be). The shank of the rivet MUST swell to fill the hole to be effective over the long term. For this reason it is difficult if not impossible to tighten a loose rivet. You can tighten the "set", but not swell the center. For bucking we start with a ready made 8" bucking bar with the proper recess for the rivet head. We then cut the bar short enough to fit within the frame rail. This short bar is then welded along the side to a heavy piece of steel forming an off-set bar that extends around the edge of the rail. The bucking bar should be at least 3-4 lb.., but 5 lb.. is better. For setting the rivet we use an air chisel or air hammer. I've been told they are commonly available in short stroke and long stroke versions and I use the long stroke or long barrel version. I think way too much is made of the type of air hammer as the rivets swell like butter when the shank is properly heated. The setting tool for the air hammer is matched to the rivet size similar to the bucking bar. The riveting requires two people in almost all cases. The first person holds the rivet by the head with pliers while the second person heats the rivet with a torch. The rivets are heated red from the middle first, then towards the outer end. Next, while the first person slips the rivet into the hole and backs it with the bucking tool, the second person sets down the torch, picks up the air hammer and proceeds to rivet. The result is a rivet that completely fills the hole as it should. The process requires approximate 30 seconds per rivet."