[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by early28

The rear drums have been turned and the shoes have a pretty even wear pattern on them. The rear brakes have self adjusters on them and brakes are really a little tighter than I would normally adjust them manually.

Rear shoe adjustment controls pedal height (considering pedal ratio and push-rod length is correct). On new shoe install, the shoes must be extended fully to seat the shoe position within the drum. Extend fully and back off enough to where the tire/wheel can be spun about 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Depress the pedal again and see if the turn effort is the same. You may need to adjust slightly tighter again. As the show wears into the drum arc, you may need another manual adjustment until the self-adjust feature begins to function properly.

As for the master cylinder push rod, I'll machine an 1/8" spacer tomorrow and try that. I will check the rear shoe fit to drum and not rely on the wear pattern. I'll also be sure the adjustment is correct. The conversion kit I used was for manual brakes. The master cylinder is a "Manual duel bowl disc, MC36440 which fits a 1978 Mustang ll. The proportional valve that comes with the kit is located in the center of the photo that KULTULZ posted. It's an adjustable proportional valve only. A photo of the valve I used was sent to Chockostang and the rep. said the combination valve I used would work well in the system. Photo attached.

No. 1, an adjustable proportioning valve is for use on a competition car only. They are dangerous on a street car unless the valve has been set/calibrated on a skid pad or with gauges.

No. 2, the 2nd valve you show is not a combination valve but only a Pressure Differential Valve.It has no effect on brake operation other than a warning lamp and partially isolating either front or rear circuit if either system that has experienced a failure.



The MC you have is incorrect for the K-H System you have, The application requires the 1967 MUST manual DISC/DRUM MC as it will have the correct bore size, fluid capacity and correct residual valve for the rear drum brakes.

Your system needs a front metering valve and the correct proportioning valve.

The correct push-rod length may be tricky here as the brakes were not designed for your application although retrofit is common. The push-rod must just barely touch the MC piston at rest.

The MC was bench bled, correct? And the entire system bled after that?