[Marshall V. Daut]

1) "1930artdeco" is right: this is the correct bulb for brighter lights. I suspect the connections at the base of the headlight are shorting out. Remove one at a time until you find the wire that is touching the metal headlight shell.
2) Turn the key to the left, remove the key and push the cylinder in. That will shut the engine off. Original equipment is a pop-out switch that can only be turned off when pushed in. When you insert the key and turn it to the right ("on"), the cylinder will pop back out. This was Ford's "theft-proof" ignition design.
3) Passenger car radiator shells were nickel plated in 1928-29. The only cure for a faded one is to have the shell re-plated.
4) Put a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil on the two felt pads on either side of the armature. The back cover has to be removed to do this. Polish the armature with 220 grit paper as it revolves. Do not overtighten the rear cover screw or it will distort the armature frame and affect horn operation. Just tighten it enough so that the cover is not loose. Then adjust the horn operation via the slotted bolt sticking out of the back cover: screwing inwards tightens things up, screw it out a notch at a time loosens things up. Adjust it with the engine revved up steadily to about 4-6 amps on the ammeter = normal driving RPMs. Adjusting with the engine off and not charging will give you a false operation range. It's a rare horn that operates properly with the motor stopped. Good grounding is imperative!
Marshall
Marshall