View Single Post
Old 03-19-2019, 05:19 PM   #6
Purdy Swoft
Senior Member
 
Purdy Swoft's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
Default Re: Brake adjustment - Frustration

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
I've never tried the board adjustment method . Here is how I do mine . I first disconnect all of the brake rods at the adjustable end . Disconnect the pedal rod at the pedal . This frees up the the service brake cross shaft for adjustment . You will need a gap of 1/16 between the plunger on the end of the pedal shaft and the inside rear of the center crossmember . This is where the plunger on the pedal shaft meets the brake light switch . This adjustment allows the levers on the cross shaft to be in correct position for brake rod connections . Adjust the clevis on the pedal rod so it will just connect to the brake pedal with the pedal at the top of its travel and prop the pedal up firmly to hold the adjustments that we have made until the brake rods are connected . Time to connect the brake rods . Pull back the slack on the front brake levers and adjust the brake rod clevises so that the brake rod pins will just enter . Repeat the same procedure on the rear brake rods . Being as the brakes were adjusted with the car on stands , there is a good possibility that the rear brakes will be too tight when the car is taken off the stands . I adjust the rear brakes with the wheels on the ground or the shop floor . I do this to allow for possible wear in the rear hub races and wear on the axle housing bearing races . Without going into proper bearing race specs , I just adjust the rear brakes so that I can judge any drag that is too much by pushing the car slightly . This setup will have the pedal ready to activate the brakes when applied . I always test mine on dirt so that I can observe skid markes and make final adjustments if needed
Purdy Swoft is offline   Reply With Quote