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Originally Posted by frank d kirkstad
Thank you Bored & Stroked for your questions and comments. I have no experience with these new paints. I have painted my Model A using bonnie Gray nitrocellular lacquer color on body with acrylic enamel black on the fenders. I painted my brothers old chevy. nova with maroon acrylic lacquer. Both cars came out very well. Back then I was using a devilBliss siphon type gun. I plan on getting a new HVLP gun and I do have a decent compressor. Yes, I do plan to strip off all the old paint and use a good primer. Do I also have to use a primer sealer since I will be at bare metal, just trying to save a step. Thank You. Frank
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If you're stripping it down, then I would try to use a quality epoxy primer as soon as possible over the bare metal - using a metal-prep beforehand, re-scuffing after it for good measure (before the epoxy primer) and making sure you don't wait for any surface rust to start. Usually I use ScotchBrite as my "scuffer" after the metal-prep and surface cleaning . . . many say you don't need too, but I've found better results when I do (being careful not to put my bare hands on the surface).
These newer primers seal extremely well and will not let any moisture get through to the metal or body filler below. Once you apply a couple of good coats of epoxy primer, then you can scuff it and put a higher-build type of primer on it (for block sanding and getting all the small imperfections out).
If you are stripping and doing bodywork on a section of the car at a time (like most of us do) - then cover each section with the epoxy primer in stages - trying to seal things up as soon as you can. Many shops today only put body filler over the epoxy primer - as it seals the metal off and ensures that no moisture gets through.
Depending on the top-coat material (type/brand) and associated recommendations, you may need a 'sealer' over the high-build primer.
In many cases a sealer gives you a consistent cover coat - before you apply your base color. Usually sealers are applied right before the base coats - with appropriate flash time (again, depending on the paint).
You may be able to skip the sealer step - depending on the materials you use (type and brand of paint), how well your base primer has covered and what is recommended by the mfgr.
Best of luck!