One thing no one mentions is drum width and diameter when converting to hydraulic. And should we mention brake fade?
And no, the fact that your mechanical brakes can "lock up" doesn't mean they work well. In fact, it's quite the opposite. A skid is not a controlled stop. Why do you think anti-lock brakes were developed? I could throw a stick in the wire wheel to make it skid to a stop, that wouldn't be very safe, would it? Tire contact patch area, shoe width, and drum diameter will increase brake effectiveness and reduce brake fade.
I understand the desire to keep things stock, but let's be real; why do new cars feature 4-wheel disc brakes with ABS? Hint: it's not because mechanical brakes rule. A little honesty would go a long way with some of the new blood.
That said, a hydraulic conversion on a Model A is not without it's challenges and is better left for one with experience as it's no place for an amateur. When I purchased my Model A coupe, the previous owner had installed juice brakes, but only plumbed three of the four because the "t" in the rear was cross-threaded. He drove from California to Florida like that. I drove it around the block before parking it and ripping it apart.
Shall we compare the '39-40 Ford hydraulic brakes vs. the Lincoln Bendix-style hydraulics while we're at it?
