[GOSFAST]

Heads up guys, my intention here is NOT to "redesign the wheel", it's to make some of the existing procedures that most of us have become accustomed to on the Flatheads a bit easier accomplish!

Here's a short list of items I'm trying to make easier!

1-Adjusting the valves (I'm still referring to new builds here) without the headache of reaching under the manifold area to get all 16 done. The method I started this post about recently, "on the bench", really works fine for me. I can "hit" the target lash number within a "thou or two" WITHOUT having to hold the lifters and turn the adjusting nuts inside the unit. I will "dial-in" the necessary numbers during the final assembly. This ENTIRE procedure now should take us about an "hour and a half", two at the most, to get ALL 16 valves assembled AND lashed??

2-Holding the lifters from turning even with the bores drilled is still no "fun", this is even mentioned above here by "glennpm", I'm in total agreement with him! I am still working on this here?

3-Dale addressed this above, working with ANY small-base cams has always posed an issue for me from years back. We began using the lash caps to get past this one. They work flawlessly, BUT, on the final assembling it is also a "headache" getting the locks AND the lash caps in place together! I have 2 of Tony's cams here now, both have lash caps. I have no issue with using the caps long-term, just during the assembling! On the "flip" side using Chevy valves here to address this small-base, it creates just another one that's worse (in my opinion) than getting the lash caps installed. it ALTERS the install spring height dimensions drastically? I know from many past posts up here this is a "major" one not a "minor one. I know this as well also due the number of guides we've sold with the adjustable spring seat registers! This entire "dilemma" is a really simple "fix", as of today we will be ordering new Ferrea valves to work with the small-base cams, we are adding .080" to the OEM lengths, but placing the keeper grooves in the same location as the OEM valves. This solves the small-base-cam/longer valve "dilemma"! Simple fix on this one!

4-I've been working on one issue for a about 2 years now, just don't have enough time to dedicate to this one. I've already spoke to Paul at "Topline" about it and for what I would need from him is "no problem" he claims? It is a hydraulic lifter setup, this one MAY fall under the "redesigning the wheel" category?? If you think about this seriously for a moment, it would solve a whole bunch of issues that are now present. No hole-drilling the lifter bores, no adjustment nuts on the lifters to contend with, not now OR down the road later, no possible lifter "ticking" noises ever!

Now, to address a couple other items mentioned above here, I have no problem with "pressed guides" (no matter the method), I have absolutely no problem with 1-pc (solid) "bronze guides" other than the cost (I can only imagine that here)? You would be surprised what you'd find in these blocks if you had the opportunity to "probe" one?? They're "all-over-the-place" so to speak!

One other item I'll mention here quickly, it's been discussed up here most recently, is the issue with "various" valve heights BELOW the original numbers AFTER grinding/cutting new valve seats. I've worked with a high number of Flathead over some 45/50 years and have FINALLY come to the conclusion from this day forward EVERY unit through the door here will now get 16 new inserts for the valves, there'll be no exceptions it will be "built-in" the pricing. This will all but "guarantee" a much better finished assembly!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Back to the "crown" on the adjusting nuts for a moment, we don't make the lifters and I was just as surprised to find this out as many up here were. It is something I never bothered to check or look further into, it has NEVER affected any build we've ever done, and contrary to that "crown" wearing-down, I have never found it in all my experiences. The ride in my signature has about 40,000 miles on it now, 155 HP/265 TQ and is as quiet today as the day we dynoed it. It probably ended up somewhere around 170/175 HP after the tri-power carb/intake change. We dynoed with a single 4 brl Holley. Clive at Stromberg gave him the little bit of extra HP!!