The Ford Barn - View Single Post - Flathead Alum Heads-Block Alignment

Bored&Stroked · 10-31-2019, 10:30 AM

Another method is to setup two stud/bolt holes for what are known as ARP steel "Hat Washers" - I've used them on various blown applications. I would NOT use them on all studs, as they can be a bit of a pain to get back out.

Another aspect of Gary's post is that he is using ARP studs/bolts. The quality of these fasteners is a big reason he does not have to retorque the heads. When you're using lower quality studs/fasteners (think stock stuff), you will find that it normally takes 2 - 3 heat cycles and retorque sessions for them to hold torque.

I've seen some aftermarket stock-style "stud/bolt kits for flatheads that required multiple re-torque sessions. Not only due to fastener stretch - but also due to the low-quality of the head washers. You need to use thick, heat treated head washers - period. Ford did not use washers on their cast iron heads (49-53 with bolts) - but you must use them on aluminum heads - or you'll gall the Hell out of the heads themselves.

If you're pondering studs - really think about using the ARP studs with the nice Allen Head receivers in the tops. This makes it possible to remove a stud (or even re-seal it) without pulling the head. Also, it makes the removal of the heads a LOT easier.

10-31-2019, 10:30 AM	#3
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,067	Re: Flathead Alum Heads-Block Alignment Another method is to setup two stud/bolt holes for what are known as ARP steel "Hat Washers" - I've used them on various blown applications. I would NOT use them on all studs, as they can be a bit of a pain to get back out. Another aspect of Gary's post is that he is using ARP studs/bolts. The quality of these fasteners is a big reason he does not have to retorque the heads. When you're using lower quality studs/fasteners (think stock stuff), you will find that it normally takes 2 - 3 heat cycles and retorque sessions for them to hold torque. I've seen some aftermarket stock-style "stud/bolt kits for flatheads that required multiple re-torque sessions. Not only due to fastener stretch - but also due to the low-quality of the head washers. You need to use thick, heat treated head washers - period. Ford did not use washers on their cast iron heads (49-53 with bolts) - but you must use them on aluminum heads - or you'll gall the Hell out of the heads themselves. If you're pondering studs - really think about using the ARP studs with the nice Allen Head receivers in the tops. This makes it possible to remove a stud (or even re-seal it) without pulling the head. Also, it makes the removal of the heads a LOT easier.