[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Bob,

FWIW: From past Model A experiences:

1. The yellow covered hardbound book offered by the Model A parts vendors entitled "Model A Ford Services Bulletins Complete", offers descriptions on how to adjust Model A mechanical brakes when new from the factory, and also, later after someone altered the brake rod lengths:

A. First, brake adjustment when new: When the car is new and everything is assembled with Ford's "newly" manufactured parts, all positioned very accurately to within thousandths of an inch, adjust brakes by maintaining "all" four (4) new brake rods at the "exact" same length and adjusting brakes "only" by turning the adjustment wedges at all four (4) wheels and "never, never, never, never ...... ever" adjust brakes by turning the brake rod clevises which alters the "exact" lengths of each "new" brake rod ........... because everything in the brake drums is new and perfect.

B. Secondly, brake adjustment after someone re-adjusted the brake rod lengths: Ford again reiterates "never" to adjust brake rod lengths by turning the brake rod clevises, (with all perfect mechanical brake parts), ......... "unless" ........ someone previously altered the brake rod lengths ....... then Ford describes how to adjust the brake rod lengths by turning the brake rod clevises because now it is most important to take up the Ford designed "free travel" on brake levers until the brake rod pin holes line up.

C. Later, in the mid 1930's, by the time Model A brake parts had become well worn, removed, and later misaligned and inaccurately set in place with new rivets, the mid-1930's mechanical manuals began recommending adjusting Model A mechanical brakes by "also" adjusting the clevises at each wheel "and" adjusting brake rod lengths.

D. If your Model A is perfect with all new Ford parts, and your brakes work perfectly as when they left the Ford factory, (like that claimed by many Forum members), please do not try to adjust the brake rod clevises and brake rod lengths ..... by doing so, you actually could die later by lightening and go straight to Hell because this is the most often preached type of Model A mortal sin; ....................

E. However, if your Model A is well worn after 80+ years, and has several inaccurately manufactured reproduction parts inside the drums which have been re-positioned and provided adjacent to a few well worn parts, (like most Model A's today), please do not hesitate to adjust the brakes by turning the four (4) adjustment wedges, and, in addition to turning the clevises to fine tune the lengths of the brake rods because your brake rod parts are no longer Ford perfect, and the exact position of said parts probably have be altered.

2. If you use the later mid-1930's Model A brake adjustment methods, where free travel distances in each drum may now vary, you can now adjust the brake rod lengths and have better adjusted brakes .......... plus avoid getting struct by lightening and going straight to Hell.

3. Actual internal mechanical free travel adjustment vs. felt internal mechanical free travel on Model A mechanical brake arms may vary slightly when witnessing comparing wheel drag vs. free turning Model A wheels for each wheel ..... sometimes it takes a bit more time and patience to achieve desired better Model A four (4) wheel brake equalization at each separate measured incremental step, (measured in inches), when depressing the brake pedal.

Hope this later mid-1930's recommended Model A brake adjustment method can help anyone in the future to have better adjusted Model A brake equalization, plus have a chance to avoid brutal lightening, and make it all the way to Heaven.