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Joe K · 08-25-2019, 07:31 AM

Best reply is to buy both, and use what parts you have to determine which you need - and then return the one you don't use.

Somewhere on the "net" are measurements which show the different housings and the different lengths of shaft required.

The parts vendors are acquainted enough with their stock and market to possibly guide you on which one to buy. It may be as simple as telling them the markings on the side of your two tooth box ("Gemmer" v "F" v a Ford part number) and this gives them enough clue. I can't tell you which one is which without doing some research but the research has been done and is out there.

While you're at it, question the parts supplier about "concentricity" of the worm to the centerline of the shaft. A lot of shafts/worm assemblies are being pressed on without the worm being checked afterwards. The action of pressing on necessarily involves some "interference fit" - and this interference CAN be a source of non-concentricity for those who press quickly and then don't check afterwards. Best check is done in the box with the two bearings - as I write above. Knowing of the possible issue, a responsible parts source will make this check BEFORE sending the part out at their postage.

Good luck,
Joe K

08-25-2019, 07:31 AM	#17
Joe K Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Cow Hampshire Posts: 4,188	Re: Rebuilt Steering Box Adjustment Question Best reply is to buy both, and use what parts you have to determine which you need - and then return the one you don't use. Somewhere on the "net" are measurements which show the different housings and the different lengths of shaft required. The parts vendors are acquainted enough with their stock and market to possibly guide you on which one to buy. It may be as simple as telling them the markings on the side of your two tooth box ("Gemmer" v "F" v a Ford part number) and this gives them enough clue. I can't tell you which one is which without doing some research but the research has been done and is out there. While you're at it, question the parts supplier about "concentricity" of the worm to the centerline of the shaft. A lot of shafts/worm assemblies are being pressed on without the worm being checked afterwards. The action of pressing on necessarily involves some "interference fit" - and this interference CAN be a source of non-concentricity for those who press quickly and then don't check afterwards. Best check is done in the box with the two bearings - as I write above. Knowing of the possible issue, a responsible parts source will make this check BEFORE sending the part out at their postage. Good luck, Joe K __________________ Shudda kept the horse.