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Old 08-03-2022, 02:03 AM   #4
KULTULZ
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Post Re: Maximum acceptable temperature for 292 Y-block

IMO ONLY

Here is a basic TUTORIAL FORD BIRD COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING -

https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/1955...d-overheating/

It is all basic knowledge/practice and there are more factors than given above.

The only thing I disagree with in the TECH PAPER is the use of a pusher electric fan. The assembly blocks what little outside air that is able to be drawn into the radiator.

This with WP PULLEY SIZE and WP VOLUTE poor design.

The complete system (IMO) must be upgraded to modern standards along with the ability to not make the changes noticeable when the hood is opened.

If one hangs aftermarket air, most of the obvious visible giveaways are mute as it is not a dedicated restoration or survivor.

As for true coolant temperature(s), a QUALITY MECHANICAL TEMP GAUGE needs to be mounted and watched to see what actually is happening while driving. This is a test gauge only and can be taped to the WS while the car is operated under different conditions and recording the readings (true oil pressure readings are derived with the same method).

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EDIT - INSERT

- DETERMINING TRUE COOLANT TEMPERATURE -

AUTO METER - https://www.autometer.com/blog/faq-p...ge-reads-high/

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There has to be a service somewhere that can properly curve a LOAD-O-MATIC DIST. If you are set on keeping it, it has to operate correctly.

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- CRACKED EXHAUST MANIFOLD -

https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/crac...aust-manifold/

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- IMPROVED FLOW WATER PUMP SPACER -

This video should explain to all the need for this spacer along with a smaller OD WP PULLEY. The author states there is no water flow below 750 RPM and most engines idle @ approx. 650 RPM. This spacer, along with a re-designed WP impeller and modifications to the timing cover should overcome (IMO) any overheating conditions assuming the complete system is in good operating condition.

https://vimeo.com/263049673

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FURTHER RANTING -

Another consideration is WP speed. The 1955 and early 1956 BIRD used a 6.94” O.D. PULLEY with a 17” DIA 4-BLADE FAN (forget the original 3-BLADE FAN unless you want CONCOURS CORRECT).

It seems engineering went to a larger 18” FAN mid-1956/57. The WP PULLEY DIA was also increased to 7.44' O.D. (apparently they were thinking of possible over-cooling) .

It seems to me that the early WP PULLEY (6.94" O.D.) coupled with the later 18” FAN (1955 radiator shroud different from 56-57) in addition to a redesigned WP SPACER (PARAGON A-432) and engine front cover (WP volute clean up) coupled with a sound cooling system (full flow radiator and full-flow thermostat) should give the desired performance.

This would also alleviate (IMO) the different length fan spacers needed (blade pitch) and possible offset belt drive using other than original BIRD designed parts/systems.

The WP PULLEY (6.94" O.D. - B5S 8509-B) is available repro (but
expensive).

6-INCH WP PULLEY - CASCO 8509S (5.94in O.D.)

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HOSE – WP BYPASS (8597) – Cut From Bulk Hose FDA 18472-A (9/16") – MPC


JUST SAY NO TO WORM CLAMPS!


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SUMMATION -

RIVETED BLADE FLEX FANS (incl OEM) are dangerous. Fan clutch drives can fail (bearing and/or seal) and put a burden on the WP bearing.

One has to bite the bullet and stop searching for stop-gap repair methods. FORD screwed-up and it is up to the present owner to overcome those short comings.

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ANOTHER KULTULZ EDIT -

- CASCO NEWSLETTER - #17 NOV 2009 -

Quote:
Here’s a tip that may help you keep your cooling system in top shape. Spray the fan side of the radiator with a water-soluble cleaner such as Simple green or Gunk Engine De-greaser, let it soak in, and then flush with a fine spray from your garden hose. Be sure not to use too much water pressure as you might close the radiator fins.

A radiator with clean fins will cool more efficiently.
SOURCE - https://www.classictbird.com/pdf/Thu...htening-17.pdf

AND YET ANOTHER -

Quote:
If any cold spots are found in the core, it indicates blocked tubing at that point. Maybe it is safest to have the radiator flow tested and then rodded if necessary.

Look through the upper tank radiator cap opening at the size of the tubing and you will realize it doesn't take much to cause blockage.



Attached Images
File Type: jpg COOLANT TEMP GAUGE - BIRD.jpg (42.2 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg RADIATOR CORE - CLOGGED.jpg (57.6 KB, 84 views)
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We should have a contest. The player has to start at the very last post of a thread & then try to guess what the OP's original question was about ...

Last edited by KULTULZ; 09-05-2022 at 06:44 PM. Reason: THE USUAL CONTINUING SAGA
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