Quote:
Originally Posted by 32phil
As far as the TT and driveshaft lengths:
These dimensions are what I'm going with for my car.
Hopefully someone else will verify or dispute.
When you shorten the driveshaft make sure it is clocked properly to keep the bottom on the bottom and the speedo gear in the correct place.
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Hey Phil....Here are the figures that I have on file....I believe ALL within a blond hair of what you have.
TORQUE TUBES '33/'34
V8 = 61-13/16"
4-cyl = 60-3/16"
DRIVE SHAFTS '33/'34
V8 = 60-5/32"
4-cyl = 58-7/16"
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1932 SCALLOPED Torque Tube and Drive Shaft
'32 Torque Tube = 53=5/16"
'32 Drive Shaft (Matching) = 51-5/8"
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When comparing the FLAT-FACED scalloped flange area on the EARLY banjo with that of the LATE banjo, you'll notice in the pictures below that the single "odd" drain hole (for oil to drain from T/TUBE) does NOT match-up between early and late. I would think it maybe prudent to keep this in mind, depending on which Torque Tube/Banjo combination one goes with.
'32-'34 BANJO
LATE BANJO
For what it's worth, one last suggestion when considering shortening a T/Tube. Never make any cuts on the torque tube at the front...too many different variables in this area, plus the TAPER to deal with. With that said, the SPEEDOMETER GEAR should always be the SAME distance from the hemispherical bell....a constant! This becomes beneficial when it comes to measuring for how much to remove at the rear end of tube. The most-critical and exacting measurement will be the length between the centerline of the speedo gear, and the center of the hole in the splined pinion for the driveshaft LOCK PIN. Everything else is easily calculated off of that measurement. DD
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