[L5wolvesf]

First, thank you to all who have replied.
Second, I do have PB Blaster which I use when things are rusted. I didn’t think this was a rust issue so I went with WD40. I’ll be using whatever it takes, including elbow grease, to get things moving.

Originally Posted by paul2748

When you use the inside handle what does it feel like - since the panel is removed you should see it pulling the mechanism at the latch. Is it doing this?

While not familiar with the 55 door latches, what I have found that there is a rod connector between the lock and the latch. Something may be off (not connected) that is preventing the door from becoming unlocked.

I’ll have to check out what is moving, and what isn’t, this weekend. As 40 Deluxe suggested, I’m going to study the passenger side door first to get an idea of what is in there and what it does. Thank you

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

If the car is not a sedan or wagon, you might be able to remove the interior upholstery panel from inside by first removing the metal garnish molding, door handle, window-crank and armrest, then remove two screws at the bottom with a phillips screwdriver. Then use a brake adjusting tool to stuff the bent end of the tool in between the door and the upholstery panel and pull the panel clips out of their holes at both front and back sides of the panel. Then you should be able to pull the panel inward enough to clear the door handle & window crank shafts while pulling the panel straight up (which will pull the panel bottom clips out of their keeper pockets. Might be a lot easier to remove the front seat first.
Afterward, first thing I would do is shine a flashlight in thru the big square hole aiming toward the back to see if somebody drove a screw thru the door structure into the rear quarter. If not, you can dismantle the door mechanism from inside to get the door open.

Mine is a 4 door Customline and the door panels have been off for a while and stored so they don’t get worse than they are. The door had been able to open within the last year or so. Good to know I can dismantle the door mechanism from inside to get the door open. Hopefully I can get it open before having to do that. Thank you

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

Step 2: Get a flashlight and a mirror on a stick and check the latch for disconnected linkage. Use the other door to see what should be there.

Yes, I should have thought of that. Thank you

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

Most all of the Fords cars in that era had a similar latch mechanism. It's likely the type with the rotating star wheel that meshes with teeth on the door jam. They have a metal arm that actuates the latch on the inside and a simple lever actuated by the door handle button on the outside. I'd hate to have to destroy a door panel but that would be better than destroying the sheet metal of the door or B pillar. Something is likely broken in the latch mechanism. Now finding out what is another matter. Then how to manipulate it to get it to free the latch is yet another. You will have to have access to the latch somehow. The door will have to be opened up to repair it since some of the screws are in the door jam area. If you take the lock knob off the shaft, you can drizzle penetrant down in the general area of the latch and possibly free something that might be corroded or crammed with debris or the like.

Most body types are obvious on the mid 50s types. They only made one fordor, one convertible, and one wagon. The tudor had three or four different types if I remember correctly. Any other changes were upper or lower trim levels on the different body types like customline, mainline, crestline, etc.

I would have to assume that you want to know the trim level and what type of running gear it had when new.

PS: I forgot the 2dr wagon types so add that in there too.

Yes, mine has the rotating star wheel and teeth on the door jam. The door panels have been off for a while and stored so they don’t get worse than they are. I like the “drizzle penetrant down in the lock rod” idea. Yes, I want to know the trim level etc it came with. Thank you