Quote:
Originally Posted by SimplyCosmic
At the risk of starting an argument here, what is the current best-recommended gasket and the best place to buy it from? I see mentions of a Best GraphTite?
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The graphtite and copper are good choices. Not sure why a previous poster said not to use copper. Graphtite gasket is a pain to remove if having to pull the head in the future, a lot of difficult scraping of the head and block deck may be required to remove all the gasket material
Had my motor rebuilt last winter. The rebuilder told be if I wanted the siliconed gasket to take my business elsewhere due to the problem Ryan mentions, and said he also had a couple of motors running water that started seeping in the 1000/2000 mile range. He recommended the copper and is what I have.
If ever loosening the nuts, drain the coolant below the level of the head to prevent seepage. Some when re-torqueing like to slightly loosen the nut 1/16 of a turn or so before torqueing, which can cause seepage. My motor rebuilder says this is not necessary on bolts/nuts that are clean/fresh.
When the head is off have it magnafluxed and resurfaced flat, Check the block deck with a straight edge for flatness.
Clean both surfaces so they are grease/oil/dirt free. The surfaces should not be completely smooth, resist the temptation to prepare the surfaces to a mirror smooth finish. There should be a very slight crosshatching in teh surface
Test fit the gasket to make sure all is OK. Spray copper coat on both sides of the gasket, allow it to get tacky. Some like to apply 2 light coats, tacky between coats. some other have alternate methods. Not sure what method to use on the Graphtite.
Put the head and upper coolant neck on, make sure the neck/block mating surfaces are absolutely flat and use a paper gasket, some use silicone/gasket maker. Torque in sequence at 35 lbs, 45 lbs, 50 lbs, 55 lbs.
These are values used by my motor rebuilder.
One of the head nuts is under the distributor. It must be torqued with the distributor removed or by using a crow foot wrench. Use the style that has the Torque Wrench opening directly vertically above nut opening. Some are offset and can cause incorrect torqueing.
My motor rebuilder instructed me to re-torque at 50 miles, at 100 miles, at 200 miles, at 400 miles, at 800 miles, at 1400 miles. If any of the nuts move at the 1400 mile mark, repeat re-torque every 400 miles until the torque is stable. I also plan on re-torque every spring/fall since I run antifreeze year round.