Quote:
Originally Posted by philipswanson
Check with ARP.
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With respect to ARP main bolts OR studs we were instructed by them a while back already to
"sand the bottoms of the new washers by rubbing them on some 220 grit sandpaper before installing and torquing them up". This is relevant only when using/installing brand new aluminum heads.
Their claim is you MAY not be getting the correct torque on them during the final installation??
We stock and sell many of these ARP head stud kits specific for the Flatheads and have begun placing our own paperwork in each package explaining this issue!
Just a "tip" here pertinent to this post.
With regards to the heads "sticking" to the studs over time and being difficult to remove down the road we consider this a non-issue here.
One of the main reasons behind us "pinning" the heads to the blocks is due to fact that most mfrs now size the holes on the larger side to help with this very specific issue. We pin almost all builds now, I will say the method above with some aluminum sleeves is not a bad idea either if you can accomplish it without any major issues. Our "pinning" allows for room/space around ALL studs, less chance of "corrosion" on the studs down the road.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Just to add here, 99% of our Flathead builds get studs, installed with Permatex #1 (hard-setting) and so far have not experienced one single "leak". We always run an H-3 tap (not a thread-chaser) through the existing holes in the decks and I can't recall re-torquing any heads with our method here (with the ARP's)? One more item I would add here, in order to avoid "pulling" any of the existing threads from the decks on final-assembly we torque the block plate up to 85# as a test during mounting it, if all the threads hold we back the torque to the correct number for the final honing!
Also we NEVER install any anti-freeze ahead of time until we know 100% there are no leaks, the anti-freeze will "retard" any minor seepage from sealing itself up!