Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidG
Frank,
Earlier you had said that you had placed a block of wood under the oil pan and jacked it up. You now need to jack it further to free the front motor mount bracket from the insulators on the front cross member. Once the bracket is no longer resting on the insulators, remove them from the front cross member. This along with perhaps a little further raising of the engine should enable you to rotate the front engine mount sufficiently to clear the ledges and remove it through the narrow opening that exists (or should exist) between the crankshaft pulley and the ledges.
This is a challenge unique to the '33-'34 fours that is the result of the slanting of the radiator rearward (compared to a '32) and the further rearward placement of a four in the '33-'34 chassis (compared to a V-8). That rearward placement wasn't enough to create the needed clearance between the fan and the radiator so they shortened the water pump, moved the generator back, and reduced the length of the crankshaft pulley. The net result is that there is very little space between the back of the crankshaft pulley and the ledges on the front of the timing gear front cover. There was a better way to handle the greater overall length of a four than a V-8 in a '33-'34 chassis, but it is what is, namely a compromise.
|
I already took the bolts out of the insulator pads...the pads are solidified and I will replace them.
So you say I should jack up the engine slightly higher to allow me to twist out the racket which is now loose.
can the engine take this lifting without damage to the "linkage" I believe they call it?